Are my foil pouches CAUSING my warps?

Natlek said:
Why do you use this piece of shit of steel is beyond me !
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Lol! People use it for a couple of reasons... First, it's a cheap stainless steel.
It takes a screaming sharp edge, you can forge it without much in the way of specialized equipment, it's cheap, it's available in small thickness, it's cheap...
Did I mention it's cheap?

Warp issues aside it's actually a really nice stainless steel to work with, and if you send it off to get heat treated by someone who really has the process down (JT knives), you get great results!

Oh and please don't curse on the forum, it offends people. Not me personally, but I know folks are sensitive on here about it.
 
Natlek said:
Why do you use this piece of shit of steel is beyond me !
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Aside from the warping of AEB-L, I have had good performance results from it at 62 or 63 in thin edge geometry. I think people are missing the point here though. The other steels I listed are curving as well. It’s not just my AEB-L and they are warping as I pull them from the kiln when foil wrapped.
 
I think you've singled out your culprit. If your seams are thicker than your material, the plates can't make even contact along the length of the blade, so there's room for it to move.
I bet if you made your pouches so that the seams were outside the plates when you clamped, it would eliminate your problems.
 
A.McPherson said:
I think you've singled out your culprit. If your seams are thicker than your material, the plates can't make even contact along the length of the blade, so there's room for it to move.
I bet if you made your pouches so that the seams were outside the plates when you clamped, it would eliminate your problems.
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I get what you guys are saying about the seam preventing proper contact with the plates. That isn’t my issue though. The issue I have is that in the 2 seconds between the kiln and plates, the blades are curving wildly. They are dead straight in the kiln and curve like a banana as soon as they come out of the kiln before they even make it to the plates. The plate quench seems to be fixing that for the most part, but if they never went between plates they would have a solid 1 inch curve or more. I think if I can stop this crazy curving as soon as the temp starts to drop, I would have very few issues with warps after the quench. Not sure if this makes sense.
 
Ahhhhh, I don't know what to tell ya then! Good luck?
 
Ok .. so here is another idea. When you pull the blade from the furnace, it will immediately start cooling off. It will cool slower on the side with the seam (the layers of foil provide some insulation, as well as more thermal mass) ... so the other side (no seam) will cool faster, and contract more ... leading to a curve towards the non-seam side. So ... do you always get curvature towards the side without a seam?
 
I use CPM 154 almost exclusively, thin folder springs will warp coming out of the kiln also but when put between 1-1/2" plates they straighten out with no warp, but your plates must be flat.
 
Aaron Gough just shared this post on instagram, where he uses a transformer to weld the foil together instead of folding/crimping it. It seems promising, though I don't know if he's actually using this technique yet, I've only seen this one post about it. If it works it might be a nice way to keep the folds from interfering with a plate quench.
 
Lee Hester said:
Aaron Gough just shared this post on instagram, where he uses a transformer to weld the foil together instead of folding/crimping it. It seems promising, though I don't know if he's actually using this technique yet, I've only seen this one post about it. If it works it might be a nice way to keep the folds from interfering with a plate quench.
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There is a previous thread about welding foil pouches here with a link to a youtube video.
 
Do you have a fan nearby? Do the blades consistently warp to the same side or is it random?

If you have a fan, turn it off. It could cool one side quickly if its hitting the blade as it comes out of the oven.
 
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