Are saw teeth feasible?

Sorry scott both the blades with angle saw teeth are gone. The problem with them is the blade is to thick and to short to be a usefull saw. I would try to talk him into trying a agressive serrated edge on the spine instead. I think it would work much better.

Leon
 
Hi all, i recieved my grandfathers Foley Bellsaw saw sharpening equipment after he passed,(mother and 2 uncles thought it worthless) have been toying with the idea of developing a saw/knife pattern that would sell. point is you should be able to find this equipment, reasonably priced , to do this work for you. I have an auto filer, auto retoother, several saw sets for setting tooth angle, etc everthing to make a piece of steel into a saw.
Good luck on your project! George
 
First off, a saw isn't needed to split the sternum of a deer. It's soft enough to just cut right through it in seconds with the edge of the knife. A saw would be very handy for cutting off the legs, though, since cutting at the joints still leaves a lot of leg sticking out.

Second, I don't like saws on the spine of a knife either, for most of the same reasons mentioned. Too thick & short. (granted, a skinning knife doesn't have to be thick, either.) If you want a saw always at hand, I think it would be far more productive to have a seperate thin saw carried on the same sheath as the knife. Just take an actual saw blade and attach a pistol grip style handle of some sort that isn't too bulky, and its own pouch can be made with another flap of leather on front or back.

If you do this, a simple way to incorporate a kerf is just make sure the primary grinds go all the way to the spine, so that the spine is the thickest portion of the knife. If you only do a saber grind, then you have to start bending the teeth to the sides or whatever so they clear a path for the rest of the blade.
 
the possum said:
First off, a saw isn't needed to split the sternum of a deer. It's soft enough to just cut right through it in seconds with the edge of the knife. A saw would be very handy for cutting off the legs, though, since cutting at the joints still leaves a lot of leg sticking out.

Second, I don't like saws on the spine of a knife either, for most of the same reasons mentioned. Too thick & short. (granted, a skinning knife doesn't have to be thick, either.) If you want a saw always at hand, I think it would be far more productive to have a seperate thin saw carried on the same sheath as the knife. Just take an actual saw blade and attach a pistol grip style handle of some sort that isn't too bulky, and its own pouch can be made with another flap of leather on front or back.

If you do this, a simple way to incorporate a kerf is just make sure the primary grinds go all the way to the spine, so that the spine is the thickest portion of the knife. If you only do a saber grind, then you have to start bending the teeth to the sides or whatever so they clear a path for the rest of the blade.
Click to expand...



Justin
that would help but
for a true working and fully efficient tooth we need a full functioning tooth,
most hand saws have what they call a scratchier tooth , not as efficient and try sharpening it in the field if you have to..
as you mention make them, you basically don't have any set to speak of and no rear clearance of the tooth's leading edges this is a big part of what causes binding, and in, say, soft wood you need even more set in it this is proven in saw chain sharpening. more angle set for soft wood and less in hard wood..it gets more complicated than that in the was a saw chain works but it's the jest of it..being a Chain saw dealer and repair shop for over 20 years helped understand this, I've sharpened many of them..:o

the teeth I made on the ESK, these are made to mimic full chisel ground style chain saw teeth.
the point of each tooth is higher than the top plate ramped up to the front and out past the rear of the side plates of each tooth and past the body of the knife, always providing clearance behind and below the point,
if you guys look close, you'll see the tooth is bent out and also at an angle
a true set..which is not difficult to make..
I made the ESK so you would not have to carry yet another tool, ease of sharpening with a common chain saw file. this one I made for survival not as a hunting knife, it can be used as a hunting knife but for me a bit long for that sole purpose , as you say Justin, a saw in the field while hunting the saw is not needed..unless it turns into a survival situation..

the less weight and junk carried in a survival situation the better ,
it's what the ESK was made for.. Mal Stevens at The Maine Primitive Skills School http://www.PrimitiveSkills.com/ teaches survival with very little in the field, guys take a look at what happens at his school to the students, it's very interesting,

he'll go on survival trips by himself for a week or so at a time and survive on what the woods have to offer only.
I listen to this guy and what he wants in A knife, built for him and the school..I just added a fully usable saw tooth and a little insight to this knife..

.. Justin don't think I'm in anyway getting on you here, this is just my thoughts and why I think this way..to get the best out of one tool, if we are going to bother putting time in them why not get the most out of it....
just food for thought for the guys only..:)
BTW the blade steel on the ESK is only 5/32" thick
 
I don't know man. I haven't tried any of the saw tooth knives any of you guys make or some of the newer high quality production knives with teeth, but my experience with using a couple back in my days of wearing funny baggy green clothing and stomping around the woods heavily armed was that saw teeth on a knife were a great idea.......until you actually tried to saw something. The ones on the Air Force survival knife were about as useless as teats on a boar hog. And the "Rambo" type knives were about as bad. I never tried one of the Randalls with teeth, but at least it looked like a design that was more for function than looking good on the silver screen. :eek: But then again, my comments must be taken in the context of not having any recent experience and also the fact that I don't even like serrated blades much.;)
 
Possum: I use a saw to go through the pelvic bone, not the sternum. The sternum is definatley soft enough for a knife. I saw through the sternum(usually with a small saw) then it makes it easier to remove the anus and what not and everything comes out in a nice package from the esophogus on down. No I will not use my knife to hack threw it(busted tips that way) a saw is clean and very efficient.
 
I no longer cut the pelvic bone at all myself- some of the best meat must be cut to do so, and then it gets all dried out & nasty as the carcass hangs in the shed. I just loosen things from the back end with a long narrow blade.

When I did still cut the pelvic bone, a knife works fine. You just have to get it perfectly centered on the "joint" and it will snick through with a bit of coaxing. I've done it with several blades including my Blackjack 1-7, and my large bowie knife makes short work of it. I can just stick the tip up in there, and use its two feet of leverage power to just pop it open. But yeah, I can see that a saw would work well here too if that's how you prefer to do things.
 
that would be My Opinion too

I don't split the pelvic bone in the field, I'm not really sure why anyone would want to? like said, just more meat wasted,:( unless you have to pack it out of course..
when I butcher the Animal back at home, I use a reg hand saw to do the cutting needed by one.. but if needed in the field, you can do all you need to do with a good hunting knife only..most guys even use a knife too much skinning a deer out..:o :)
 
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