Are Serrations Needed on Knives and, If So, What Kind?

Elen said:
That's not to say serrations are bad or good - they are what they are, extremely good for a couple of things and miserably bad for a lot of things.
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I've not found my SpyderEdge blades to be miserable. What things are you refering to?

BTW - my serrated Spydercos sharpen up nicely on my Sharpmaker.
 
I have a mix of plain and combo edge knives, and enjoy and use them all. I find serrations to be helpful cutting harder plastics, such as zip ties. I do not care for the manner in which BM is currently cutting there serrations so deeply into the blade.
 
It's all preference but people that say they have no use have never worked
in industrial shipping / receiving departments. Heavy strapping, plastic wrap and
thick zip ties will dull any plain edge much faster than serrations. They are harder
to sharpen but will still do the above job way longer than plain edge blades. I now work as a tower climber so I make sure what I carry has partial serrations because IMO
they cut thick harness and rope much easier plus they cut heavy electrical tape for alot longer. Everyone would be suprised how quickly a large roll of that tape will kill any
edge.
 
CHP5 said:
I've not found my SpyderEdge blades to be miserable. What things are you refering to?

BTW - my serrated Spydercos sharpen up nicely on my Sharpmaker.
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Serrated edges tend to be miserable in such things as making clean and precise cuts, working wood, chopping, batoning, field sharpening. This certainly goes for Spyderco's serrations as well.

But, ultimately, it's of course up to what you do with your knives. If, like sc1966, you regularly do the few things that serrations excel at, then they're likely the best choice for you. That's how it works.
 
oldways said:
this discussion has caused me to wonder why all the free hanging rope cutting demos are done with plain edges?
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No mystery there. It's because the serrations would hangup in the rope and the backlash would pull the knife from your hand and fling it somewhere.

Another good point for plain edges over serrations.
 
vjb.knife said:
No mystery there. It's because the serrations would hangup in the rope and the backlash would pull the knife from your hand and fling it somewhere.

Another good point for plain edges over serrations.
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Not as far as I'm concerned. I can't remember the last time I ever needed to make a swinging cut at ANYTHING and have only seen it done in these competitions. Not exactly a real-world test for a knife.
 
rnr said:
I've always thought that they were on the wrong side of the bladefor right hand users. If you're cutting rope away from you the serrations are facing down. Try it in your left hand, that's the way it should be.
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This all gets back to the wretched chisel grind issue, which is closely related to what you're talking about. Although I have no problems using Cold Steel's serrations, or sharpening them, placing them on a certain side just for aesthetics is reprehensible. I once bought a Winchester-branded knife that had the serrations on the right side. Back then, I didn't know enough to know that was the correct side, but it sure makes sense now.

Back to sharpening CS's serrations, if I didn't have the Lansky sharpener, I would have a major problem resharpening them. But they're less than ten bucks, so I'd rather have the serrations and spend a few more bucks to make sharpening it a breeze.

Like human and animal teeth, the teeth on serrated knives blunt and wear. You need a sharpener with precise teeth spacers to put more space between the teeth, which in turn makes the teeth longer. Sharpening the arcs is easy; it's the teeth that are a pain. But, and this is important, even a worn serrated blade will still cut remarkably well and make a formidable edge for defense.

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chuckschilling said:
Not as far as I'm concerned. I can't remember the last time I ever needed to make a swinging cut at ANYTHING and have only seen it done in these competitions. Not exactly a real-world test for a knife.
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He di not ask if it was a real world test; just why they don't use serrated blades. And that's fine if you don't think it is a real world test but it seems most of the custom knife makers and a lot of the big knife companies seem to think it indicates something but I am sure that you know better. I don't think chopping a 2x4 or hammering a knife blade into wood is either but many people do.

I haven't had to do this but he possibility of having to slash at a human or animal target is one thing that this simulates like the cuts that test a Samurai Sword through reed and bamboo bundles.
 
vjb.knife said:
He di not ask if it was a real world test; just why they don't use serrated blades. And that's fine if you don't think it is a real world test but it seems most of the custom knife makers and a lot of the big knife companies seem to think it indicates something but I am sure that you know better. I don't think chopping a 2x4 or hammering a knife blade into wood is either but many people do.

I haven't had to do this but he possibility of having to slash at a human or animal target is one thing that this simulates like the cuts that test a Samurai Sword through reed and bamboo bundles.
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How does a swinging cut at a loose rope simulate cutting into a human or animal target? I don't know of any humans or animals made of twisted hemp or bamboo - do you?
 
chuckschilling said:
How does a swinging cut at a loose rope simulate cutting into a human or animal target? I don't know of any humans or animals made of twisted hemp or bamboo - do you?
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+2

If you're worried about slashing humans, there are much better test mediums than rope :barf:
 
I clean trout by cutting off the head, tail, and fins then scale the sides. A fully serrated blade does it much easier than a regular blade. I've found a fully serrated blade to be very quick at quartering game. A good one like the Spyderco Temperance goes right through tendons, ligaments, and cartilage without hesitation, will even saw through bone, and there is no need to field sharpen in the middle of the task. Steak knives are serrated: I wonder why? :D I like them.:)Regards, ss.
 
sc1966 said:
...I now work as a tower climber so I make sure what I carry has partial serrations because IMO they cut thick harness and rope much easier plus they cut heavy electrical tape for alot longer. Everyone would be suprised how quickly a large roll of that tape will kill any edge.
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So what kind of serrations? By that I mean what pattern?

Jennifer_B said:
I always thought it was because only the tips of the serrations would be the only part of the edge to get banged against the plate, so a serrated knife would stay sharper longer.
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I've found a serrated blade almost always stays sharper longer. One thing I've wondered about lately is: are serrations a waste of steel if the blade is a premium steel like VG-10 or S30V? And would these steels be better or worse (in terms of wear and tear, and roughness) than the more conventional steels? My 440A Cold Steel serrated blades keep their edges far better than my S30V bladed Spyderco plain and, like I said, they're easy to sharpen.
 
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