Are there really a lot of differences between a $50 EDC knife and. $250 one?

It really depends. I do enough cutting these days that most $50 knives I'll have to stop and sharpen in the middle of cutting. That irritates me, so I'm willing to spend more money and get better steel. $80-150 tends to be my sweet spot. Above that you're almost always paying for things I simply don't care about.

Many people have mentioned handle material, but here's the thing, FRN or some similar plastic material is what you'll usually get on your $50 knife. From a purely practical standpoint it may actually be the best handle material you can get as it's lightweight, strong, can be grippy or smooth depending on preference, does not transmit heat or cold, and it's pretty much chemically inert. 'Better' handle materials almost always just look prettier or feel more solid, neither of which is terribly meaningful.
 
Hi! This type of discussions comes up from time to time :). I more or less agree with everything that has been said here. My additional point in all these discussions is that high-end knives shall perform at least at the same level for intended use and then have something “extra” justifying the extra price. To continue with examples about vehicles (a popular comparison ;)), intended use off-road in this case: a UAZ 469b (here available around 7000 EUR in its civilian model Hunter) is a very basic rugged one, designed to perform off road. No bells and whistles on it, just a climber, hence the “goat” nickname. From a Range Rover (average price here 70000 EUR) I can surely appreciate comfort leather seats, luxury interiors, touch screens, led lights, etc. but if I cannot climb the same shitty bumpy, muddy trail, I give a damn about all that. To me it’s just a pricy non-performer. The very same with everything else, including knives. Intended use rules in my opinion, given an intended use can be simply the display :D.
 
There is no simple silver bullet answer to this question. There was a time in my knife life when the Spyderco PM2 was the pinnacle and everything on the other side was a waste of money. Then I took the gamble that so many knife nuts face at some point and bought a Sebenza. My knife worldview was forever altered at this junction. The Sebenza was perfect in ways that I only then realised for the first time. Up to that point I could not see why any knife would be better than a PM2 ... but the Sebenza changed that.

And then I graduated further to custom knives which opened up a new reality where I saw new things for the first time. I still love the PM2. In my books it still is the best EDC knife money can buy, but I do fully appreciate these days why some knives cost more and why. How much $ value one can attach to "better" is entirely up to the one buying/paying. We all see it differently.
 
I'd say, to some degree...

At $50 you're almost always still looking at quality built but basic stainless steel blades: 420hc, 440a, 440c, 7-8-or-9cr#mov, aus 8, all similar in their own regards...even sandvik 14c starts typically going above $50... Once you start getting above $60 you start seeing more of your mid-high and exotic steels; and at $150 you're often times looking at a high(er) end steel blade with better build materials, not just in looks, and handles, but better bearings and washers, clips and liners, tighter tolerances, (usually though, important to note not always, sometimes you are just paying for the name).

That all said, both will cut... With a well processed steel blade and a well sharpened edge both will cut rather well.
The $150 may hold its edge longer, be tougher, maybe better corrosion restitant, open and close smoother, look a bit nicer, typically a $150 knife peform better, but that's hardly to say the $50 knife won't... Is it 3x's better? It could be, it may hold an edge 3x as long before needing sharpening, but ultimately that is up to the consumer to decide if it is worth it... At $250, is it 6x's "better", I doubt it, but the market still says that many still feel it is "worth" it.
 
Last edited:
I'll never find out. I don't think I've spent more then $100 on a knife and I probably never will. I'm not a collector and I have other things I'd rather spend my $ on. My self imposed limit is also influenced by my wife. If I spent $250 on knife, she'd kill me.

Honestly, my $50 Delica 4 FFG from the marketplace or a $40 SAK are all I need.

just about covers it for me.

buzz
 
I would say yes.

I've EDC'd folding knives ranging from $15 to $450.

You almost always get what you pay for but the difference doesn't scale equally with cost.

Overall quality/performance/build/ergonomics/etc seems to scale almost linearly 1:1 up to around the $50-75 range. After that, you have to pay 100% more each time to get a knife that gives maybe a 10-20% overall improvement.
So while a $400 knife is better than a $100 knife, it's not 4 times better. Whether it's worth paying the premium is up to you.

Yes, the law of diminishing returns is definitely in effect here. For my uses many of the best values fall in the $50-$100 range.
 
I would say yes.

I've EDC'd folding knives ranging from $15 to $450.

You almost always get what you pay for but the difference doesn't scale equally with cost.

Overall quality/performance/build/ergonomics/etc seems to scale almost linearly 1:1 up to around the $50-75 range. After that, you have to pay 100% more each time to get a knife that gives maybe a 10-20% overall improvement.
So while a $400 knife is better than a $100 knife, it's not 4 times better. Whether it's worth paying the premium is up to you.

This is probably the best answer to this question. I've got a Kershaw Camber in my back pocket right now. I got this knife practically new for $55, but the average street price is around $70-75. It's got S30V steel, solid lock-up, excellent construction, an outstanding warranty, and it's made in the USA. I also regularly carry a Spyderco PM2 that I got for $104 with all of the features I listed for the Camber. I have several Ontario RAT folders (1 and 2) and ESEE folders (Avispas and Zancudos). They only cost around $30 apiece. While those knives also have solid lock-up, good construction, and a generally good warranty (at least as I understand it, never used it), the FRN scales, AUS-8 vs S30V steel, and Taiwan production (while great, is cheaper than US construction) bring the price down considerably. I feel that the Camber and PM2 both carry an intrinsic value equal to the high price that they carry over my RATs, Avispas, and Zancudos. That being said, I've owned several folders that cost 2-3 times what my PM2 cost, and I found that in that price range, the differences in quality (there were very few) just weren't on par with the price. And I personally don't really go in for the kind of high end materials and finishes that you get on those higher dollar offerings.
 
Are therer really a lot of differences between a $50 EDC and. $250 one? Any fundamentals that would make a real life difference?

No. Unless you are a knifeknut :) You do realize this is a forum for people crazy about knives?

For the average Joe, a knife is to be used and lost, thus $50 is the way to go. For a knifeknut, a blade is a thing to be chicken-eyed, coon-fingered, enjoyed, shown to fellow knifeknuts, lusted after for months, etc.
 
Is there a difference between a $50 and a $250 knife. Yes; absolutely yes.

Does this mean we should all throw away our $50 knives? Definitely no.

Can "I" tell the difference between knife X and Y? Maybe yes/maybe no.

Will I feel bad if I lose my $250 knife? Yes but you should feel bad if you lose your knife regardless of price.

Can I abuse the more expensive knife because it's expensive materials "should take care of themselves" and "it's designed to pry stuff". No as a rule you still need to use a more expensive knife with care.
 
I took a vacation to California earlier this month. I didn't want the TSA to steal any of my knives, so I paid $5 for a Gerber Mini Paraframe and packed it in my checked bag.

The TSA didn't steal it so I got to carry for a week.

It did everything my more expensive knives do. I'm not a hard use guy.

But like Surfingringo said, I like carrying more expensive knives because of the way it makes me feel.

Do you need a Rolex to tell time?

No.

So why have one? Because you can.
 
Yes and no. $50 is a tough price point. You can find good products at that price but you can find a lot of products that could be better. I've found that there is a significant difference between a $50 folder and a $100 folder. Now from $100 to $250 I find less difference.
 
After about 200 the law of diminishing returns really comes into play. I used to race bicycles. You can get a good basic race bike for around 2000.00. It's easy to spend 6-10k no problem, but it's going to make very little difference in the outcome of your race. Same with knives.

Mike
I too agree 100%^^
 
Depends on how much your interested in knives.

If your asking that question then your answer is No.

For me I can't tell the difference between fine wine and box wine

And I dont care, just lookin for a buzz.
So in the end,
Some people just want something that just cuts and thats fine.

I can tell the difference between cheap wine and really good wine. But I don't particularly care enough about the fine wine to buy it or drink it. Table wine is fine for me.

As far as knives go, I do think you can tell a difference between generally a $50 and a $150 knife. Both will cut. Both will probably please you, but for me the $150 one tends to please me more. The $150 knife will likely have better steel that holds an edge longer with use, probably nicer handles and fit and finish. But if these things are not important to you, there is no reason to purchase anything over $100.

I still carry a $30 SAK everyday, so believe me, I don't "just" lust for expensive knives. I define expensive as anything over $200-$250 in a folder and $300-$400 in a fixed blade. But I really have to think about buying anything that costs more than $125 regardless of it being a folder or fixed blade.

The shoes comparison is an apt one. Dress shirts.... not so much.

I think it's better to have a $30-$50 knife than no knife at all. Even a Rough Rider or Frost is better than nothing.
 
Last edited:
I think the one thing I am looking for is when I stab the knife into something or when the blade is hit, the locking mechanism would be strong enough to hold it and it wouldn't cut my fingers off. I think that would worth the extra money to me.
 
Back
Top