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- Sep 4, 2002
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I find that, as well as physical superiority, the other cues that dogs use to establish a pecking order are;
1) Who goes first. I make a habit of the dog entering buildings, cars etc behind me and on a long walk, calling them back and waiting until they are behind me before moving again (from time to time). This is also the beginning step I use to teach them to walk at heel. If the dog pushes ahead of me through the door I call them back out and wait until they are behind me before entering.
The issue is not as much about who leads as about who follows. If I have a dog that insists on leading and will not follow, I simply turn and walk the other way until they get the message; 'We walk where I saw we walk.
2) Physical strength in play. Letting them know firmly, but without excessive violence, that you have strength to push them on their back. Most dogs will establish the physical pecking order this way, rather than fighting. Competing for a bitch in heat is a different story however (just like us blokes really
)
3) Who eats first. If the dogs are inside or around where you are eating. I make them wait until I have eaten and then serve their food to them outside. The leader eats first in a pack.
4) Sitting height. If you let your dog up on the couch with you it will start to see itself as your equal and feel compelled to begin competing for the 'top dog' position. I occasioanlly let a dog jump up with me for a bit of quality time, but tell it to 'get down' again after a while. So they realise that they are up at your level by your choice, not theirs. Of course some people never let dogs up on furniture but that is about the furniture, not the dog.
I've seem many nueuotic dogs become very relaxed with the implementation of these four steps alone. Agitated dogs (and people) are often that way because they are not sure where they fit into the pack. Once they are aware of their status they seem to calm down and become quite happy.
Of course there are moments where a hard smack or a sharp word are the only course of action, Particularly when they are so fired up and over-exited that they are not listening to you and about to do something dangerous to themselves or others. But using violence and physical strength alone isn't a compelling enough set of signals to the dog about who is in charge and it will feel compelled to 'test' you again and again to see who is the boss.
Also in the stage of development of an animals social instincts. Bonding precedes obedience. The animal will only feel compelled to do what you want after is has developed a strong bond with you. Too much violence and force in the first 18 months will affect the deepness of the bond. In my experience this makes the difference between a dog that is merely compliant and one that has a fierce desire to join with you and cooperate.
1) Who goes first. I make a habit of the dog entering buildings, cars etc behind me and on a long walk, calling them back and waiting until they are behind me before moving again (from time to time). This is also the beginning step I use to teach them to walk at heel. If the dog pushes ahead of me through the door I call them back out and wait until they are behind me before entering.
The issue is not as much about who leads as about who follows. If I have a dog that insists on leading and will not follow, I simply turn and walk the other way until they get the message; 'We walk where I saw we walk.
2) Physical strength in play. Letting them know firmly, but without excessive violence, that you have strength to push them on their back. Most dogs will establish the physical pecking order this way, rather than fighting. Competing for a bitch in heat is a different story however (just like us blokes really
)3) Who eats first. If the dogs are inside or around where you are eating. I make them wait until I have eaten and then serve their food to them outside. The leader eats first in a pack.
4) Sitting height. If you let your dog up on the couch with you it will start to see itself as your equal and feel compelled to begin competing for the 'top dog' position. I occasioanlly let a dog jump up with me for a bit of quality time, but tell it to 'get down' again after a while. So they realise that they are up at your level by your choice, not theirs. Of course some people never let dogs up on furniture but that is about the furniture, not the dog.
I've seem many nueuotic dogs become very relaxed with the implementation of these four steps alone. Agitated dogs (and people) are often that way because they are not sure where they fit into the pack. Once they are aware of their status they seem to calm down and become quite happy.
Of course there are moments where a hard smack or a sharp word are the only course of action, Particularly when they are so fired up and over-exited that they are not listening to you and about to do something dangerous to themselves or others. But using violence and physical strength alone isn't a compelling enough set of signals to the dog about who is in charge and it will feel compelled to 'test' you again and again to see who is the boss.
Also in the stage of development of an animals social instincts. Bonding precedes obedience. The animal will only feel compelled to do what you want after is has developed a strong bond with you. Too much violence and force in the first 18 months will affect the deepness of the bond. In my experience this makes the difference between a dog that is merely compliant and one that has a fierce desire to join with you and cooperate.
