Are you ok with ''basic'' knives\steel ?

RemyKaze said:
If you constantly maintain it. I'm one of those folks who would rather sharpen a knife back from dull, but I know the newer steels hold an edge much longer. How hard is it to get them sharp from seriously dull? Since the edge lasts a long time, seems like you only need to touch it up, but if you don't, wouldn't it be a pain to bring it back?
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No, maybe a min.....

I was over a fellow members house about a month ago, took my EP, Spyderco Ceramic rods, Strop, and The ceramic rod used in the video....

Showed him in person how fast and easy things can really be..... ON HIS KNIVES.....

You would be surprised what can happen with a ceramic rod and a few seconds, like a Spyderco Med Rod..... Steel doesn't matter...... SECONDS......
 
Ankerson said:
No, maybe a min.....

I was over a fellow members house about a month ago, took my EP, Spyderco Ceramic rods, Strop, and The ceramic rod used in the video....

Showed him in person how fast and easy things can really be..... ON HIS KNIVES.....

You would be surprised what can happen with a ceramic rod and a few seconds, like a Spyderco Med Rod..... Steel doesn't matter...... SECONDS......
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I'll take your word for it. I believe you know what you're talking about. But in the video, you had reprofiled and sharpened it already, to 15 degrees. Very easy to maintain such a thin edge. And by the time you sharpened it, it still seemed very sharp from what I could see. Granted, probably not up to your standards, from the way you test knives and steels. Again, not disagreeing with you. I'd just like to see someone really dull the heck out of something like S110V on video, then show how long it takes and what tools it takes to get it back.

Either way, I still see it as simply two ways of dealing with a knife. One needs touching up lest it get too dull, and another needs touching up because it dulls faster. This is an interesting subject for me. I started out wanting the best new steels and designs only to realize that I'm more of a traditionalist, with a few caveats like one handed opening and strong locks.
 
RemyKaze said:
I'll take your word for it. I believe you know what you're talking about. But in the video, you had reprofiled and sharpened it already, to 15 degrees. Very easy to maintain such a thin edge. And by the time you sharpened it, it still seemed very sharp from what I could see. Granted, probably not up to your standards, from the way you test knives and steels. Again, not disagreeing with you. I'd just like to see someone really dull the heck out of something like S110V on video, then show how long it takes and what tools it takes to get it back.

Either way, I still see it as simply two ways of dealing with a knife. One needs touching up lest it get too dull, and another needs touching up because it dulls faster. This is an interesting subject for me. I started out wanting the best new steels and designs only to realize that I'm more of a traditionalist, with a few caveats like one handed opening and strong locks.
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Might actually do that one day.... ;)

I do it all the time in the kitchen with my crap kitchen knives, butter knife dull to screaming sharp in a few seconds....

My other ones like the S110V and S90V knives I use in the kitchen, well they hold an edge for so long I might have to touch them up maybe once a year...
 
I'm much More interested in things like ease of sharpening, toughness and to some degree, rust resistance, than ultimate edge holding. I don't mind touching a blade up a little more frequently, as long as it sharpens easily. I have never tried 3v but would like to, I have heard it's not that difficult to sharpen.
 
RemyKaze said:
I'll take your word for it. I believe you know what you're talking about. But in the video, you had reprofiled and sharpened it already, to 15 degrees. Very easy to maintain such a thin edge. And by the time you sharpened it, it still seemed very sharp from what I could see. Granted, probably not up to your standards, from the way you test knives and steels. Again, not disagreeing with you. I'd just like to see someone really dull the heck out of something like S110V on video, then show how long it takes and what tools it takes to get it back.
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That's was a standard factory knife in S110V that was sent to me to check, I did set the edge to 15 DPS, .028" behind the edge.... although it was already pretty close....

Yeah, it was still fairly sharp, true......

But to bring the edge back to screaming sharp took seconds...

Wouldn't have made much of a difference if it was dull, I would have used my Med Spyderco Ceramic and done the same thing....

It's all technique and having the right sharpening stuff and keeping things simple.....

It can be as easy or as over complicated as you want to make it..... It's all up to the person.....

Some people make it all sound like brain surgery and over complicate the heck out of the process to make themselves seem like some kind of genius or something and spend hours sharpening a knife.......

It's really not all that difficult...... Not really.....
 
I've paired my overbuilt knives down. I have had about 13 Busse. I'm down to a big Busse KZII, and a Swamp rat Rattlehawk.

I have moved toward more traditional knives.

I do like higher end steels, but love my opinel, slip joints and simple styles.
 
Honestly, when I used to make my living outdoors (as a hunting guide and organising horseback trips on the mountains), I used very simple knives. Well made and sometimes expensive, but definitely simple in design and materials. I came to rely on steels like O1, 52100, 5160, 1095 and so on. I was quite satisfied with them.

Nowadays, I spend a lot of time in the city and carry folding knives. I tend to use "super" steels whenever I can, just because I feel they kind of go together with the modern folding knife and I'm just curious to try them out.
 
I use machetes constructed of 1070 or 1074 carbon steel almost every time I go outside (mostly Tramontinas, Imacasas, Hansas and Martindales), and I would tend to agree that choosing the proper tool with the proper blade geometry for the job is more important than using a steel less suited to the purpose. I choose the tool best related to the target, and the basic steels perform quite well for me in the field. I have over 100 machetes, and I find that a distal taper in a softer steel that readily sharpens in the field is more important to me than having a tool in an exotic steel that can't handle the job. None of my machetes are for show. All of my machetes are working tools. I don't like 1055 or 1095, so I am probably a snob because I limit myself to 1070, 1074 and sometimes 1075, but to me, it's all about utility and ease of sharpening. I do tend to favor D2 and AUS8 in my fixed blade field knives.
 
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