Arkansas Stones on Super Steels

I wouldn't say I'm new to this, just unaware of Shun's use of outside companies. Thanks for the suggestions ​on different stones to buy. I know of the quality of all these stones. I may just have to shop around for the best price on the Naniwas. I don't​ much care for the idea of glass personally. And I do already have a Naniwa, so I know the quality.
 
jc57 said:
I have both of the Shun water stones (300/1000 and 1000/6000). They are not bad per se, just overpriced for what you get. Shun doesn't make them. They are made by someone else for them (which is true of most knife companies who sell a branded water stone.) In fact, when comparing them side by side, it is clear that the same company did not make both stones. The sizes, composition, and even the rubber base holder are all different. I bought them at about the same time from a major Shun retailer so no question about their authenticity.

Both benefited from use of a flattening plate before initial use to get a good working surface. They are also a bit undersized at a little over 7.25" x2.5", versus the 8" x 3" size that is more typical of full-sized water stones.

I would suggest either the Suehiro Cerax Combo 1K/3K or the Imanishi Two Sided 1K/6K Stone for about $55 each over either of the two Shun stones that run about $80 each.

For that matter, there are decent King combo water stones that are probably similar to the Shuns for a lower price, if you want to shop around.

That is not to say the Shun stones suck. They don't. They work, and you can sharpen your knives with them. They are typical short-soakers, about 10 - 15 mins is enough, and take about 2 days to a week to fully dry out again after use. The 1000/6000 is an interesting stone. It is *almost* splash and go, and is not really thirsty. 5 minute soak, and ready to go. The 1000 side is a rather aggressive and fast cutter (which is not a bad thing). Not much mud. The 6K side seems a bit coarser than I expect for 6K, maybe more like 3k-4k to me. No mud at all. Also, fully dry in a couple of days.

The 300/1k is a different beast. Soak for 15 mins, a bit thirstier when using, muddier, took almost a full week to dry out after use. It also feels like a different binder. Not quite the same size, and a different rubber base. All of which combine to make me think it's from a completely different maker.

Why did I buy them, you may ask? I was curious about the brand, and I got an excellent deal on them due to seasonal sales promotions a while back and living near an outlet store for a big retailer. I think I got them close to dealer cost. I would NOT have paid the normal retail price for those stones!
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more
 
BrandonColonel said:
I wouldn't say I'm new to this, just unaware of Shun's use of outside companies. Thanks for the suggestions ​on different stones to buy. I know of the quality of all these stones. I may just have to shop around for the best price on the Naniwas. I don't​ much care for the idea of glass personally. And I do already have a Naniwa, so I know the quality.
Click to expand...

if your a baller on a budget just get the Cerax stones like JC said.

You can have a full set up with just the Cerax combo 280/1.5k

then you have your repair stone, sharpening, and polishing stones if you use your 8k

quite a big jump but it would function if executed properly.
 
I don't mind spending the money to get one good quality stone at a time. Plus, I do have my original Lansky set from 220-2,000 grit in ceramics. I'm just looking to replace it with benchstones due to the better control.
 
yup, all those brands in my last few posts are where I would go if I wanted a ceramic waterstone.

I am not here to make a sale, just wanted to keep ya on the right track and not waste money on stuff that is a cash grab on less experienced dudes. I am not hurting shun sells either. They will continue to sell there stuff for $80 bucks and make money. Its not marketed to people that research there products.
 
Which ones were the ceramics again? The Cerax? I just looked into one and saw it talking about a slurry seen in regular water stones.
 
Same here. I am not a Shun-basher. I own a number of their knives, and I really like them. I am aware of the criticisms of the brand, some fully deserved, some not so much, but they do sell good products. It's the value-proposition compared to alternatives where they tend to lose out.

I did buy their stones and, when I feel like it, I use them to sharpen my knives. My go-to water stones are a set of 4 Shapton Pros, but I sometimes like to experiment with other options.

I just think there are other, better options out there for the money unless, like me, you just like to experience different brands.
 
jc57 said:
Same here. I am not a Shun-basher. I own a number of their knives, and I really like them. I am aware of the criticisms of the brand, some fully deserved, some not so much, but they do sell good products. It's the value-proposition compared to alternatives where they tend to lose out.

I did buy their stones and, when I feel like it, I use them to sharpen my knives. My go-to water stones are a set of 4 Shapton Pros, but I sometimes like to experiment with other options.

I just think there are other, better options out there for the money unless, like me, you just like to experience different brands.
Click to expand...
exactly,Back in the day, Shun was one of my first forays into Japanese knives and quality knives,hahaha I remember being blown away by VG-10 which was my first supersteel :D:p

like anything, when you start to learn more about it you start to learn about lesser known products of equal quality with less marketing but wayyy better value.
 
Long story short, I'm looking for what works. I just saw a set of Naniwas that, while the price tag hurts just a bit, some of my steels are mentioned directly by sharpeningsupplies.com in the description. I currently only have a splash and go Naniwa superstone I like in the realm of water stones. These are the same. While I'm not too big of a fan of the slurry created as I'm OCD, I can put up with it.
 
so you have the Superstone Naniwa 8k

long story short you want the Naniwa Professional or the Shapton Glass.

the Cerax works too but is not splash and go and makes more mud.
 
Yes, very different in use they don't cut as good and are only good at polish
the professional stones cut faster and wear less, also splash and go

You don't need a set,

you just need a course and a medium to add to your fine stone 8k

if you could only have one just get the 800 or 1000 grit range
 
How would you say the cutting compares to my current set of Lansky ceramic stones. I bought a while back, the Lansky Pro system sharpener, but use the stones alone for free hand sharpening. If they work like that, I'll be fine with this set. I like to be able to go up progressive grits. I find my edge quality is far better that way as opposed to going directly from a low grit straight into the thousands. If I go with the pro series, I'll just buy two of the lower grits. And finish off with the Lansky and my Naniwa.
 
BrandonColonel said:
How would you say the cutting compares to my current set of Lansky ceramic stones. I bought a while back, the Lansky Pro system sharpener, but use the stones alone for free hand sharpening. If they work like that, I'll be fine with this set. I like to be able to go up progressive grits. I find my edge quality is far better that way as opposed to going directly from a low grit straight into the thousands. If I go with the pro series, I'll just buy two of the lower grits. And finish off with the Lansky and my Naniwa.
Click to expand...

That sounds redundant, if all you need is a coarse stone like your lansky and all you want is something to incorperate into your lansky system then scrap all the waterstone info I gave you and just get a Norton India Combo bench stone
 
What I want to do is replace my Lansky. But if I don't have at least three different grit stones, I'll simply fill in the gaps with it. The set of three above would allow me to do just that. At which point the Lansky becomes my travel set.
 
Typically, I start with my 600 grit unless it's really dull. At which point I use a 220 first and then go to the 600. After that, I go to the 1,000. I finish off the Lanskys with the 2,000. I then have to spend some time on the 8,000 Naniwa because of the 6,000 grit jump. After that is various strops to completely clean everything up to perfection. I've found, for me at least, that jumping around from my lowest 220 all the way to the 1,000 and my edge is inferior to when I use all of them. I prefer to avoid big jumps when I can. However, I have asked around on various groups I'm in across the web. I'm sold on the Pros. One group I know a little more personally was able to convince me on how near impervious to scratching they are.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top