Arkansas Stones VS D2 and CPM-154?

They will put the final edge on an already sharp blade just fine. I wouldn't want to try to sharpen a dull knife with one though.
 
I wouldn't waste time with Arkansas stones on anything more wear-resistant than 440C, which itself is less wear-resistant than D2 and probably less-so than CPM-154. Even if a little refinement is possible at the high end, it'll still take a toll on the stone itself, as the steel's carbides will be roughly 2X or more as hard as the stone's own abrasive grit (novaculite), and the stone will eventually be glazed by the polishing effect of the carbides in the steel. You'll begin to see a glassy 'shine' on the surface of the stone. When that happens, the stone will be even slower to cut most anything, even simpler steels. It kills 'em quick, and they'll need lapping/resurfacing if that happens.

For grinding such steels, I'd rather use a SiC stone or a diamond hone for heavier work. And either that or an aluminum oxide stone, like an India, would also do well for basic upkeep and light resharpening. I know a diamond hone also works very well with D2 at the finishing end.
 
agreed ^.
afishhunter afishhunter , if your determined on using a Arkansas try this.--- I have a Washita grade 4"X 8" stone (nice size stone) which I applied
SiC grit on (maybe 300 grit) using mineral oil as a carrier. This being the most coarse grade. I use it for the final stone on some 110's.
This helped it work better but still slow. Yet, I get to utilize my large stone. DM
 
Thanks, everyone. :)

Looks like I need to start saving for a good set of diamond hones. :(
 
You can pick up coarse/fine Lansky bench stone for around $25. Same amount will get you c/f/ef DMT credit cards. DMT dual side folding sharpener as well. Lansky diamond crock sticks if you want to go that route too, drilling in new holes at the desired angle is an option with them.
 
Diamonds are forever (practically). My DMTs have lasted for more than two decades and still work as good as new.
 
afishhunter said:
Thanks, everyone. :)

Looks like I need to start saving for a good set of diamond hones. :(
Click to expand...

Hi,
are you sure about that?

high/low grit ebay diamond pastes run under $1
and
It only takes a few seconds to deglaze a glazed but flat arkansas with a
#325 Coarse Diamond hone (~$4), #325 SiC wet/dry sandpaper ($1 or less), or I just use some of the slurry from AlO or SiC stones ($10 and under)
and
it can be useful for microbeveling

jasonstone20
Re: Dan's Whetstone 6" x 3" Primitive Black Arkansas
I tried sharpening some different steels to see if there was a noticeable difference in speed or cutting power when finishing or microbeveling the apex of an edge. I took my Benchmade 154CM Tanto Griptillian and there was no difference getting a high sharpness edge (hair-whittling/HHT3-4), while it took a little more effort with my Benchmade S30V 13940 Osborne knife. With the 154CM I could just to 10-20 PPS and the edge came back. With the HD 940, which was already sharp at a HHT3-4, was dulled under 10-20 PPS, and I had to go to a pass count regression(40 PPS, 30 PPS, 20 PPS, 10 PPS 5 PPS, 3 PPS, 2 PPS, 1 PPS then 40 PPS alternating passes, (I think this is the Bill T method for sharpening straight razors, anyway it works)) to get it sharp to a HHT 3-4 again.
 
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