Articulating Work Rest?

Ha!... shows how much you know... you forgot to turn the grinder on!

On a serious note... Have you tried any prolonged grinding? How does the wood hold up to water and sparks?
 
Rick,
I've only ground on two of those little knives so far... no issues yet. I don't plan on doing a lot of heavy hogging with these, but I'm sure they won't last forever. To address that, I'm designing a prototype set using carbon fiber bases with interchangeable titanium angle blocks. I can see some models with machined fluting and piercing like Todd Begg, or some GTC inlaid CF panels.... the possibilities are endless. Full beast-mode production is in the near future, followed inevitably by fame, riches, and lots of girls.

All that from just a simple bit of maple, pine and wood glue. Who wooda' thunk.

ETA: And, just so you know, some folks use their grinder with the belt moving..... some don't. To each his own.
 
Last edited:
Boogaloo said:
How did u make the angle blocks? Miter saw?
Click to expand...

Yes. Just a nice solid block of hard Maple, squared, and cut to angle on the miter saw. The blocks were then glued and screwed to the Pine bases. These are admittedly, pretty damn crude, but they served the purpose of getting good consistent fine-angle bevels on a couple of knives and a couple of pieces of hardware I have on the bench at the moment.

I've existed on files to do this job for years. This makes it a heck of a lot easier and faster. I envy those with a true articulating work rest. My grinder would require some sort of custom design rig that just isn't available on the open market... that I'm aware of.

-Peter
 
Am I the only one who sets his platen to the angle and then hung a freakin parallelogram down from the ceiling?
 
bladsmth said:
Just a comment - It only is 15,20,25, etc. degrees if the work rest and belt are at 90 degrees. A $30 Wixey digital angle gauge is a good investment for any shop.
http://www.rockler.com/wixey-digital-angle-gauge?gclid=CNyjoa3pir0CFZSPfgodKY4A5Q
Click to expand...

And I'm the idiot that didn't shop around for other brands and spent $62.00....

To the point of this thread, great job coming up with something to meet your needs. Getting consistent angles for a swedge on both sides of the blade has proven to be frustrating for me. A simple setup like yours can at a minimum get a guy a WHOLE lot closer. Thanks for sharing it.

Jeremy
 
P. McKinley said:
Yes. Just a nice solid block of hard Maple, squared, and cut to angle on the miter saw. The blocks were then glued and screwed to the Pine bases. These are admittedly, pretty damn crude, but they served the purpose of getting good consistent fine-angle bevels on a couple of knives and a couple of pieces of hardware I have on the bench at the moment.

I've existed on files to do this job for years. This makes it a heck of a lot easier and faster. I envy those with a true articulating work rest. My grinder would require some sort of custom design rig that just isn't available on the open market... that I'm aware of.

-Peter
Click to expand...

I tried something like this a while ago and used old canvas micarta rather than wood. I go about 50 or so knives done before the micarta was too gouged and scratched to be accurate. As you grind, you raise a nasty burr that tends to dig into just about anything.
 
I have several of those. I made them to figure out what kinds of angles I would need my tool rests to be capable of reaching.

A couple of them ended up sticking around to grind several dozen clips on my blades.

I didn't even check angles, I just cut a chunk of wood, ground it clean/square (to its sides) and super-glued it to a base.

Something quick and dirty that works. :thumbup: :)
 
No, Nathan, it's just us guys that are into the "go green thing" that use the tilting metal rest. Frank
 
Spalted... Noice!! Love the lumber baby...

And nice KISS approach to a problem Peter. I have mitered blocks before to use as quick check blocks for framing out something off angle. But I don't know that I would have used that approach here. Nice use of the old noodle.

I have been using my disk to get those very steep angles as its work rest can get that shallow... But I can see the benefit here and am starting to think a revised work rest on the new grinder is in order...
 
12345678910 said:
Can't you just loosen the set screw and tilt the platen too ?
Click to expand...

No. I need the angled vertically surface on which to work some of the small thin spacers, ferrules, and the butt plate for a current project. Its the only way to get a steep enough angle, and hold the piece securely.

-Peter
 
I made my own articulating rest similar to the Wilmont piece. It works pretty well but, it takes some time to adjust. Your blocks look like they are quick and easy. Sometimes it doesn't seem worth the five minutes of setup to do 30 seconds of grinding.

Bob
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Am I the only one who sets his platen to the angle and then hung a freakin parallelogram down from the ceiling?
Click to expand...

No, Nathan, I'm following soon!!!!
Your idea is freaking AWSOME... i have never seen a more versatile way to set the bevel angle, still giving all the degree of freedom you need when grinding!!:applouse:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top