As I wait for my Reeves Nessmuk Hatchet, I want to prepare for it now. Marbles Axe?

Noshtero

Noshtero

Joined
Oct 10, 2002
Messages
1,551
So I have a nice long wait for my Reeves double bit Nessmuk-style hatchet. I've never used a double bit hatchet before.

Here's the first question. Is it that much different than a single bit?
If no, then nevermind.

If yes, then would the China-made Marbles double bit that Ragnar sells be a good "learner" modle to play with this year?
http://www.ragweedforge.com/ThrowingCatalog.html

Thanks.
 
First question.... yes and no. You must keep in mind that you have two edges. One is coming back at while in use. You can use the cheek of the hatchet for pounding very easily but not as forcfull as using the poll on a normal hatchet.

As far as the China Marbles hatchet, I have never used it. I have read where the head tends to come loose. In fact one guy sent it to Mike at Bark River and he did a regrind, and pinned the head back on. After that I read it was a good hatchet.

They are not that much different than working with a normal hatchet. Just remember that second edge coming back at you on the up swing. ;)
 
Ok, then here's a question redirect.

I currently use a Fiskars 14"er, and I want to at least switch to a wood handle. Should I go the Wetterlings(maybe GB) route, or the Marbles route, knowing full well at the end of the day I'll be using the Reeves double?
 
Aside from the safety portion, I've read that the two blades on a double bit are, or should be, ground differently, making the axe more versatile than a single bit axe.

I say get the marbles chi-version, or see if you can find a cruiser axe, which is a small double bit. They can bring hefty prices, but are supposed to be highly sought after tools.

I've got an 8" double bit that I need to rehandle and am thinking of putting a shorter handle on it.
 
longbow50 said:
Aside from the safety portion, I've read that the two blades on a double bit are, or should be, ground differently, making the axe more versatile than a single bit axe.
Click to expand...

You are correct on the two edges. Here is a good pic of difference.

LeeReevesAxe003.jpg


One blunted edge for hard knotted wood, one keener for clear wood and skinning.
 
Noshtero said:
Ok, then here's a question redirect.

I currently use a Fiskars 14"er, and I want to at least switch to a wood handle. Should I go the Wetterlings(maybe GB) route, or the Marbles route, knowing full well at the end of the day I'll be using the Reeves double?
Click to expand...

My personal opinion is go with a Wetterling or a GB. The GB as I'm sure you know will cost more. With a little work however a Wetterlings is just as functional.

I sanded the clear crap off the handle, and soaked on raw linseed oil for a week. I then thinned out the edge a little and sanded off the forgers suit using 320 grit.

You will not go wrong with a GB. Worth the $$$ IMHO and ready to go out of the box.

You also might want to look at Itlis Ox Head. Made in Germany, I have read many favorable reviews.

129630.jpg
 
I have one and have had 2 Reeves with a 12" OAL.

I also own one of the Ft Meigs Nessmuks that Ragnar sells

I have also owned one of the Marbles you mention.

All 3 are difft. The Marbles seemed the biggest, heaviest and clumsiest and had the worst edge. Because the edge is very fat you have to watch for glancing

The Ft Meigs double bit is much sharper but still the edge on both sides is fairly steep, and you have to watch for glancing. It's really light weight but feels forward heavy due to the thin handle. You also must place your chop more carefully due to the narrower bit and long 14" length.


The Reeves is totally different for me. One it is not a forward heavy, but at the same time the bits are very wide. It is also much finer edged than either 2 hatchets so it cuts deeper. Also because of the shorter length I don't get the willies as much from the other edge coming back at me while chopping.

One of the things about the technique I have got into with the reeves is that I seldom wail away with it, swinging full force.

In general I have a tendency to choke up on the handle and use it to make very precise cuts to cut something up. Only occasionally do I use a full force swing. It's almost like a woodworking tool or something.

One mistake I have seen people make is to chop straight down thru stuff.

Chop at an angle down one side, then on the other side to meet it for a wide notch. Then work your way in from the right and left sides to remove wood on 3 sides and then the little bit in the middle can be cut. I'm talking on 4 to 6" stuff.

For chopping limbs up to say 4" what I like to do is this. If you can stand it up on one end, then shop one side, rotate the limb, chop, rotate chop rotate chop till you are all the way around. Then a sideways hit with the hatchet or even stomping with your foot will cause it to snap. You can cut big limbs up into small logs easy this way. Also doing it this way you are choping down and somewhat away from your body, where if something is laying down you have more of a tendency to come back toward your body.

I'll say I have never cut myself with the Reeves on the edge that I wasn't using, but I HAVE cut myself with the other edge. Not while chopping but the thing is so damn sharp if you aren't careful even a slight brush across your finger will lay you OPEN.
 
How long is the waiting period from lee? I ordered two of them and it took a full year to get them.
Bryan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top