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Ask the maker.....questions for JK

JK Knives said:
I aspire to be more than just an "entry level maker." By that I mean the maker people buy from to get started in handmade knives. I see it all the time, someone buys a knife from me, then disappear, only to be seen on other makers forums buying from them. This makes me think one of two things, my knives are pretty bad, or the other maker has a better reputation, either from making a fancier looking knife, or more exposure in other areas of BF.
Click to expand...

As an "entry level" knife buyer (I just bought my first custom - the one and only JK Rhino - through the Exchange), here is my two cents. (Actually, as a newbie, it may not be worth even that, so let's discount it to a penny...) As I've mentioned before, I discovered your work as a result of the "Torture Test Passaround" and decided that I had to try your work for myself! :) I love the Rhino, so much that I already tried (but was sadly too slow) to get my hands on a pre-owned belt hawk as well.

My guess is that it's actually the high quality of your knives that leads new buyers to realize that it may be worth investing in custom blades - and that their next purchase may be one that is more "delicate" or "refined" looking, but which (whether they know it or not) isn't made to be a real *user*. Your knives make me want to go out and use them - other makers' knives (which, don't get me wrong - I would love to have as well,) would make me want to sit inside and admire them over a padded surface with a paper in my mouth to shield it from moisture. Perhaps some of those people that you introduced to custom knives will return, depending on what they decide they are looking for in a custom blade...

Anyways, just thought I'd share my perspective, in case you might find it in some way useful. I think you're doing a great job with the niche you're in right now, and hope you continue to offer quality blades at an affordable price!
 
hey john,

what would you recommend if you have a slight gap between the scale and the tang of a knife? Obviously it doesn't effect much and it's not a use use but I've been wondering if it's 'fixable" r if the best way would be a re-scale. thought about just trying to insert cement/glue. Epoxy and clamping down hard but would worry about cracking the wood.

Seen it once or twice in different knives, especially after some good use you have a slight separation, sometimes just at the top of the scale and the wood still touches the tang, towards the ricasso or butt.

Thanks
 
KYenglish said:
hey john,

what would you recommend if you have a slight gap between the scale and the tang of a knife? Obviously it doesn't effect much and it's not a use use but I've been wondering if it's 'fixable" r if the best way would be a re-scale. thought about just trying to insert cement/glue. Epoxy and clamping down hard but would worry about cracking the wood.

Seen it once or twice in different knives, especially after some good use you have a slight separation, sometimes just at the top of the scale and the wood still touches the tang, towards the ricasso or butt.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I would force some epoxy in there, and clamp it.
 
Have you ever done or considered doing a brass guard on a knife? I'm thinking like the ones you see on some of the Buck fixed blade knives.
 
kyturkey said:
Have you ever done or considered doing a brass guard on a knife? I'm thinking like the ones you see on some of the Buck fixed blade knives.
Click to expand...

Not sure how I missed this, old age I guess! I do plan on doing that, but will start with aluminum, brass is way too expensive to practice with!
 
From the web page I found it on, it looks like what they put on the Ontario RD series of knives. It is similar to micarta, just polyester/polyester adhesive... The yellow looks nice and understated though.

From a vendor site:

TeroTufTM


This material is polyester resin reinforced with polyester textile; whereas g10 and micarta are made with a phenolic resin. The polyester resin makes for a more stable handle material that will not crack or break and has negligible water swell. This material is best for tactical knives that require a handle with no slip.



TeroTuf is non-abrasive and is easier to machine than phenolic or fiberglass materials. Coolant is not required for machining TeroTuf; machine dry. Dust mask and or work area air suction is suggested.


For lathe work, carbide or diamond tipped tools can be used to generate a fine surface finish. TeroTuf™is 100% polyester resin material with no fillers.
To achieve a fine finish us 3M Scotch-Brite Finishing Flap Brush Grade 5A VFN #01162.
Cutting Angles of Turning
Top Rake 0° to 6° / Side Rake 5° to 8° / Front Rake 4° to 5°
Speeds for Cutting: Normal for surface finish 22 to 26 feet/second
Speeds for Feed: First pass/roughing .015 to .035 inches per revolution
Last pass/finishing .010 to .015 inches per revolution
 
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