Asking For Help : Understanding Knife Mechanics

On a practical level, I absolutely agree with Page, in that an actual survival knife is the one you have with you when the manure meets the windmill. Having a badass, 7" blade of triple tempered L6 won't do you much good if it's in your sock drawer when you get stuck in the snow on a back road with no cell reception. Which is why I have a 3.5" Frosts mora in the glove box of my car. In fact, I think one of the best designs for a survival knife I've ever seen is TekSec's Sparky which has a firesteel stored in the handle, orange scales for visibility, and a stout blade of O1 in a length that isn't overly obtrusive re: legal trouble and etc.
 
And I want to say, Kevin, I know you go to great lengths to avoid the cult of personality so I'll stop referring to you.
 
Jackrabbit and Page are correct, however, I think that they sorta missed the point. Indeed, whatever knife you happen to have on you is what you are going to be using. However, to the same effect, those of us who make swords don't do so with the intent that they will actually be used as a weapon to kill, maim, or injure a human being. Nonetheless, the swords we produce are given geometry and heat treating that make them as capable of such purposes as we possibly can. Why? because for some reason or another it tickles our fancy to make such an anachronism as functionable as we are capable. Taking cues from actual period pieces for geometry and using our best understanding of modern industrial materials science to make the blade as perfect at something it will never actually do as we can. Nowadays the job of a sword is to look cool, and maybe, if it's something really special, to be used in martial arts demonstration, or for cutting pool noodles and bamboo. With the exception of actual tameshigiri competition, a well made sword is rediculously overkill for those purposes, and there's a lot of wasted effort for those end purposes, yet we do it anyway.

The survival knife is much the same way. It should be as capable at all of the various "survibal" type scenarios as the end customer desires. Not because there's any sort of high degree of likelieness that the owner will ever need to rely on it in a life threatening survival emergency, but because it tickles his fancy for one reason or another.

I would go back to the tough camp knife suggestion. Something that can cut, and cut, and chop, and cut, and chop, and then cut some more. A frighteningly sharp edge isn't necessary, but a high degree of toughness and a boat load of edge retention are. Ease of resharpening isn't a primary concern, because if you are using it for a long enough period of time that resharpening becomes necessary, you are beginning to stretch the limits of the survival scenario and enter the longer term backpacking / camping scenario.

Jay Fisher has a great design here: http://www.jayfisher.com/knife_anat...mponents,_with_illustrations_and_descriptions

Knife anatomy 4 is the design I am referring to. It looks like a great inspirational piece to start with, but I wouldn't ape it directly. I would make a few changes, mostly by lengthening the section labeled "chisel edge" to be about twice as long as it is in that diagram. The serrated section of the blade really is too long for my tastes anyway, and I want the thick heavy part to be long enough to split some decent wood. I might even add a gut hook to the back of the blade. Speaking of the back, I doubt I would back sweep the point as much, but only the minimum for the gut hook, and make the point stick straight away from the handle. Then, a ring in the back of the pommel, and a back on the guard would facilitate inserting a hand carved treebranch pole through the ring, and hitting the back of the guard for a makeshift spear. A cord wrapped handle is a very versatile addition, giving you several feet of paracord to tie, lash, etc. I don't think I would hollow grind the bevels though. A clamshell convex grind would help provide extra meat behind the edge to keep the strength up. It may not come out as pretty, but from a purely mechanics point of view, I like the idea.

Inasmuch as it is like a sword, in that it's function is very unlikely to ever need to be tested, it would be distinctly mall ninjaesque as an end result, and as much a fantasy knife as it is anything else, but if we're going all out to the nines, why the heck not?
 
And I want to say, Kevin, I know you go to great lengths to avoid the cult of personality so I'll stop referring to you.

"Cult of personality" that is a good descriptive term:) but a reality that not just knifemaking but the entire world has too much of anymore:(. But all in all you are doing just fine:thumbup: if everybody decides they need to forget my name for me to be happy it would be rather bad for my livelihood, and that would make me very unhappy:thumbdn:

For my own peace of mind I am being more selective on where and how I post these days. We all like threads about topics that interest us, survival knives have never interested me since I believe that if you get yourself into a situation where your survival rests on a short piece of sharpened steel your most important survival tool has already failed you more than a knife could. Hone that first tool back up and you can make it back home again regardless of what Hollywood has told us. But that is just subjective opinion as to why a reference to my name was necessary for my participation, and why I was not troubled in the least by it. I just wanted to make the first post to clarify any previous statements I have made on a topic that is rife with confusion in our business. Carry on, your doing fine by me:)
 
Duly noted. :) And, for the record, I wholeheartedly agree with you. The most important survival tool is pretty darn hard to sharpen with a bench stone.

On a hypothetical level, I see Dan's point. The discussion of "survival knives" is almost a mental exercise as much as anything, i.e. prioritizing the most useful features in a wilderness/survival setting, seeing how many you can pack into a single piece of steel before you reach a point of diminishing returns, etc. More specifically, I would think that if you used that Jay Fisher design as a jumping off point and instead of a hollow grind you put a thick convex grind on the belly I would think you could put the flat on the back for batoning right over that widest point and have a pretty darn good log splitter with less risk of whacking your hand with a stick.
 
Also, I respectfully disagree about the spear-mounting option. I know it's a popular one but I think it's a bad idea to put your primary survival tool on the end of a big stick you intend to poke into something. A long and suitably pointy stick can be easily made and, more importantly, replaced, if that deer gets away. Also, it's a little awkward to whittle a fuzz stick or skin a rabbit with a spear and if it's easily removed then it can easily fall off in use. Or so it seems to me.
 
I've commented on the spear making question before. Make a dozen wooden spears with your knife and fire harden the tips. Then you have your knife and spears !!
 
The more I think about the mechanics of a knife in a survival knife type situation the more I get confused.

I always figure the pointy end or sharp side goes into the bad guy. Seems kinda' simple to me...
 
Back
Top