Assessing quality of custom knife

B

BlueGrassBoy

Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
1
Hi all, I own a custom bushcraft knife that I like very much, and I'm considering ordering a second one from the same maker. However, my experience with knives and bushcraft has been quite limited, and I wonder how to assess the quality of the blade. The knife in question is 1095 steel, and while it does throw a beautiful shower of sparks from the included fire rod, I noticed this resulting in a subtle, but noticeable depression/dulling on the spine edge after only two fires started this way. After reading lots of posts here, I'm under the impression that using the knife spine for throwing sparks should not result in noticeable wear that quickly. Similarly, after cutting feather shavings using a rock as a base I noticed the edge was burred where it hit the rock a few times (yes, I know, that was dumb on my part, and I won't do it again). Should I take this as an indication that the steel or the heat treating might be subpar, or should I proceed with the order? Overall, I absolutely love my knife and think it's very well made.
 
BlueGrassBoy said:
Similarly, after cutting feather shavings using a rock as a base I noticed the edge was burred where it hit the rock a few times (yes, I know, that was dumb on my part, and I won't do it again). Should I take this as an indication that the steel or the heat treating might be subpar, or should I proceed with the order? Overall, I absolutely love my knife and think it's very well made.
Click to expand...

No need to fret. That's just what happens when steel hits rock. I've dropped my blades on tile a couple of times with a similar result. That is what we call user error.:p

I would guess the issue with the fire rod is similar to hitting the rock (yet to a lesser degree) but I've never really used one so this is just speculation.

Also, we love pictures!:D
 
Sounds normal to me. I always try to use the awl or file on a multitool when striking a fire steel so as not to damage my blade.
 
Might have a differential heat treat and the spine is softer than the edge. Just a guess I know nothing about the knife
 
Steel edge plus rock = edge damage.

I've had ferro rods cause noticeable issues with stainless and 1095. Pretty normal.

This is why I use a bit of hack saw in my kit (or designated striker).
 
No. Don't worry about it. Buy the spare---it's all too rare that you find a knife you like that much.

Just use the knife. It's going to get marked and banged up over time. Just like you and me.
 
On this subject, I'm somewhat curious, don't know if there's an answer to my question or not:

When did we start using our knives to strike ferro rods? Isn't there a reason they (usually?) come with a striker? Was this some improvisation someone used in a pinch, and it gained popularity which pushed it into the realm of the accepted norm? Sure it's great to have a knife that will strike a spark for you, but should that be normal practice just because carrying a separate striker is inconvenient, or is that the new standard for knives?

At any rate, in my experience it's not abnormal to see some evidence of the ferro rod use on the knife, particularly in diff heat treated blades. Which could mean a knife that is better made for its intended purpose (holding up to cutting and maybe batoning, depending on the knife) MAY be unsuited for striking a ferro rod.
I'm currently communicating with a customer concerning this issue, and wanted to get some more consensus.

Additional thoughts?

Thanks!
Elijah
 
No solid answers from me but I wonder out loud how many strikes on a ferro rod with the spine of any knife would it take before the knife deteriorated :confused:

In my limited experience the rods wear out very much faster and it is very useful not to need to carry a separate striker. The knife spine hardly takes any abuse. If you intend a pristine knife that question is moot in any case. Don't strike anything with a precious knife.

OH - and to the OP - If you found a knife and maker that make you happy and satisfy your needs I wouldn't hesitate to continue purchasing from that knife maker. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
No offense, but I find a Bic lighter much more efficient in starting a fire. Carry it in a zip lock bag. I've used ferro rods, but don't like nor carry them anymore.
Rich
 
WilliamsBuiltBlades said:
On this subject, I'm somewhat curious, don't know if there's an answer to my question or not:

When did we start using our knives to strike ferro rods?
Click to expand...


I've been reading about knives for a long time and it is only in the past few years that there is very much talk about ferro rods, sheaths with a place for a ferro rod, etc. It seems to me that they would be for emergency use, normally you would just use your matches.

I was watching an explanation of how to start a fire with a flashlight and some steel wool. The person receiving the explanation said "if you know in advance to carry steel wool with you, why don't you just carry some matches?"

It seems to me that the ferro rod is mostly just another way dreamed up to play with your knives.
 
No offense, but I find a Bic lighter much more efficient in starting a fire. Carry it in a zip lock bag. I've used ferro rods, but don't like nor carry them anymore.
Rich
Click to expand...

But it's not bush crafty! :D
I carry both.
 
The knife spine hardly takes any abuse. If you intend a pristine knife that question is moot in any case. Don't strike anything with a precious knife.
Click to expand...

I suppose that's a pretty good rule of thumb… because as you allude to "hardly" and "none" are two different things.
 
BlueGrassBoy said:
Hi all, I own a custom bushcraft knife that I like very much, and I'm considering ordering a second one from the same maker. However, my experience with knives and bushcraft has been quite limited, and I wonder how to assess the quality of the blade. The knife in question is 1095 steel, and while it does throw a beautiful shower of sparks from the included fire rod, I noticed this resulting in a subtle, but noticeable depression/dulling on the spine edge after only two fires started this way. After reading lots of posts here, I'm under the impression that using the knife spine for throwing sparks should not result in noticeable wear that quickly. Similarly, after cutting feather shavings using a rock as a base I noticed the edge was burred where it hit the rock a few times (yes, I know, that was dumb on my part, and I won't do it again). Should I take this as an indication that the steel or the heat treating might be subpar, or should I proceed with the order? Overall, I absolutely love my knife and think it's very well made.
Click to expand...

Ferro rods are quite hard on steel, which is why people don't use the edge of their blade.
As for hitting the rock, my ESEE Junglas will chip when it hits rock and that company is known for quality heat treat. If its a Scandi grind, then its very prone to chipping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top