Atlas Forges in stock?

Fallbrook Forge

Fallbrook Forge

Joined
Jan 1, 2006
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Does anyone know where Atlas Forges are in stock right now?

I sent an email to Atlas and no response, but they’re listed as out of stock on the website and everywhere I can find them says they’re drop shipped from Atlas.
 
I got a response from them about a week ago that said they would have them back in stock in mid-March.
 
I'd say wait a bit and get an Atlas. Charles makes them in batches. You might try contacting USAKnifemakers by phone and see if you can pre-order one and that will put you on the list when they come in.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I'd say wait a bit and get an Atlas. Charles makes them in batches. You might try contacting USAKnifemakers by phone and see if you can pre-order one and that will put you on the list when they come in.
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Any specific reason you'd recommend the Atlas over a Chile?

JTknives said:
I have found that there is a reason something is hard to get and it’s usually well worth the wait.
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Noted.
 
Edited to add:
The same reason I recommend craftsman tools over Harbor Freight tools.

Quality, reliability, reparability, customer service.
​
All these apply to an Atlas forge. They probably apply to a Chile too, but the Chile forge is a blacksmithing forge and we make knives. ​

COST - The price is a major factor of the Atlas Forge. It costs less than half the price of a Chile Forge.

For a larger shop or a damascus shop, the price and chamber size of the Chile may be practical, but the average knifemaker doesn't need it.

Also, the Chile forges are far less portable.
 
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I edited my previous quick reply.

There is nothing wrong with the Chile forges, but they are basic blacksmith forges and not really ported or designed for knives. The price is more than twice the Atlas price for something that isn't as good for knifemaking.
 
Stacey, that makes sense, thank you.

I had them on my radar because Jason Knight recommends them. I don't have enough experience to know what makes a good forge or not yet, I just know the homemade one I have been using is terrible, one hot spot and the rest is cool.

Is there any disadvantage to the open design of the Atlas Hellfire swordsmith forge vs the Graham?
 
Sorry folk, I don't normally allow the Atlas forges to go out of stock. A bit of it is out of my control, but a portion is some new design improvements delayed things a bit. I'm transitioning to a cast shell, instead of bricks. This should be much more durable.

I should have them in stock early March, but I can't guarantee anything until I receive the parts from the factory that produces them for me.

Fwiw Jason Knight has one in his shop, and regularly recommends them and the anvils to anyone who asks.
 
The Hellfire is a tube forge. This style is a specific use forge. It is for heating larger and longer objects where heating is more important than temperature control. You may have to "pump" a long sword back and forth to heat it all. HT in these type forges is by eye and practice.

The more enclosed forges like the Mini and Graham will have the chamber heat up and the internal temperature can be more adjustable. For forging and HT of normal size knives, this is preferable.
 
Charles wil chime in I'm sure, but the cast liner for a forge this size should heat soak pretty quickly. It should be wrapped in a layer of insulation to keep the hot refractory liner at temperature and not heat the shell red hot. The norm is a 1" thick cast liner and 1" of Kaowool around it.

Large cast forges can take a good while to fully sak, but maintain temperature very well after that. They work best for shops that run the f0rge for many hours in one session.
 
Not all castable are built the same, and I've done a lot of research and testing. The castable I am using is called plicast lwi 24. It is made by Plibrico, which most have never heard of, except for their Plistix 900f. It has a thermal conductivity rating(how much heat it absorbs) of 3.3. By contrast, IFB is around 2.8, so very similar. Wool is superior at 1.9, but other castable like mizzou is 7.4 and kastolite at 4.5. Lower is better.

Testing has shown this castable to be excellent for insulation and less prone to cracking from thermal expansion than IFB. Combined with a rigid coating of something like Hymoor 3000 kk, this should prove to be extremely durable.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Large cast forges can take a good while to fully soak, but maintain temperature very well after that. They work best for shops that run the forge for many hours in one session.
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What Stacy said.

I feel I can speak with some authority on this as my forge for the past 8+ years has 2" of castable. While it's great for larger, ornamental pieces, I'm not suggesting this for knifemaking. If I were to make a new one, I would probably go with 1" castable over 1" kaowool.
 
Will both the Graham, and the mini have the cast upgrade? Also I'm looking to purchase one, how can I do so to get one in March?
 
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