ATS34 vs. 440c

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Dec 24, 2014
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I have a bookmarked blade steel guide range from low grade to premium grade. The 440c runs at the top of the "upper-mid" range, and the ATS34 is in the middle of the "high end" range.
Now I've found a great site that sells perfect sized sheets that I need, and these 2 are pretty much the same price. From my understanding the ATS34 is a better steel than the 440 but how is it priced the same?
Which one is easier to work with? I'm obviously leaning towards the ATS34 because according to this chart its in the same range of VG10, D2, and 154CM which are all decent steels from my experience. Any suggestions? Both are about $10 for a 1/8" sheet of 1 1/2" by 12"....
 
You might consider Sandvik steels - they tend to be a bit higher end (small grain) than some of the others.

http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/bladematerials.htm#BS-14C28N has a 1.5"X11.6" piece of 14C28N for $7.

A bit thinner than you 1/8". They also have AEB-L in .118" thickness for $5 for same dimensions.

I sorta prefer the Sandvik steels, but don't really have a lot of experience to compare other than 440C I have used. Good steel, but doesn't compare with 14C28N for ease of sharpening and holding an edge.

Ken H>
 
I have a bookmarked blade steel guide range from low grade to premium grade. The 440c runs at the top of the "upper-mid" range, and the ATS34 is in the middle of the "high end" range.
Now I've found a great site that sells perfect sized sheets that I need, and these 2 are pretty much the same price. From my understanding the ATS34 is a better steel than the 440 but how is it priced the same?
Which one is easier to work with? I'm obviously leaning towards the ATS34 because according to this chart its in the same range of VG10, D2, and 154CM which are all decent steels from my experience. Any suggestions? Both are about $10 for a 1/8" sheet of 1 1/2" by 12"....

I've use both steels extensively and still use 440C on a continuing basis and just haven't shopped for ATS-34 in about 10 years but it does have a bit better edge holding than 440C. I don't remember there ere ally being any diff in work the two steels before or after HTing.

The two steels can be HTed identically so Get a bar of both and make and test a few blades so you can gain some hands on knowledge of working the two and how they preform.

If I remember correctly with the same HT from my combo batches, the ATS-34 will have a distinctly purplish hue to it when it comes back from HT. But don't take word for it, mark your blades with a stippler.

Stay safe & have fun!
 
I have only made about thirty knives from ATS-34 and I did so because I found a good deal on the steel a few years ago. It is just my opinion but it is about the same to grind as 440C and takes a nice polish. I cannot say if it holds an edge better so I would take the word of Laurence at Rhinoknives who make a lot of really nice knives and has much more experience with the steel than myself. I would buy more if I found a deal on it but I have been addicted to 440C for so long that I am hardly objective...the guys that buy my knives now ask for it because my personal knives are made from 440C and they think that I know the best steel. I just know what I like and I am now using CPM 154 as well as 440C and am happy with both. I make mostly sporting knives that start out as 5/32 or 3/16 stainless steel. I spend most of my energy looking for the ideal abrasives and trying to save hand sanding time which is impossible with the high polish that I like. The money that I save by buying 440C I use by buying it in the precision ground form rather than "mill" or "Blanchard' cut. My advice is that if you think it makes a difference then you should buy he ATS-34 and not have that to worry about. Merry Christmas! Larry
 
Thanks guys. I still have a lot to learn, obviously :/. But I will take all this into consideration.
 
Definitely a change of subject, but how do you guys choose your handle materials? I'm going through countless different styles and colors of wood and micarta, and I'm finding ones that I like but then when I really think hard, not so sure they would look good on a knife. This is harder than it seems. Lol. I don't want to go too expensive either for my first few knives so, I am somewhat limited.
 
I have only made about thirty knives from ATS-34 and I did so because I found a good deal on the steel a few years ago. It is just my opinion but it is about the same to grind as 440C and takes a nice polish. I cannot say if it holds an edge better so I would take the word of Laurence at Rhinoknives who make a lot of really nice knives and has much more experience with the steel than myself. I would buy more if I found a deal on it but I have been addicted to 440C for so long that I am hardly objective...the guys that buy my knives now ask for it because my personal knives are made from 440C and they think that I know the best steel. I just know what I like and I am now using CPM 154 as well as 440C and am happy with both. I make mostly sporting knives that start out as 5/32 or 3/16 stainless steel. I spend most of my energy looking for the ideal abrasives and trying to save hand sanding time which is impossible with the high polish that I like. The money that I save by buying 440C I use by buying it in the precision ground form rather than "mill" or "Blanchard' cut. My advice is that if you think it makes a difference then you should buy he ATS-34 and not have that to worry about. Merry Christmas! Larry

Larry,
I haven't hand sanded my blades in years. I use Hermes Cork polishing bests to get to a nice bright satin finish stopping at a 220 to 400 and others get close to a mirror at 800.
I add Green Chrome polishing compound and there is a thread about this over at Kd's for other tips from other makers as well.
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?39448-Cork-belts.

Colu41,
Whatever you choose I suggest you get a real respirator, not one of those paper things with the rubber band, before you make anymore. The dusts over a period of years can out right kill you, Lung problems, cancer etc.

I use stabilized woods and Kirinite and stopped using micarta several years ago because I became sensitive to the any of the dust, it gives me a mean headache, most likely because when I started I was very diligent about wearing a respirator but also because a sensitivity to formaldehyde seems to run in my family.
Micarta releases formaldehyde when you work it so keep children & pets always out of the work area. Use sharp belts and keep it cool.
But it makes about the most durable of knife handles and can be very attractive. I would use Canvas Micarta and leave it hand sanded to 220 grit to give it a real grippy feel for wet & bloody field work, There are a multitude of oily woods and stabilized woods to use.

K & G Supply does their own stabilizing, start there and look around.
 
Any info on "Dymondwood scales"? Theyre cheap and some of them are actually nice looking..
 
While a few use dynowwod mostly on production knives I find it be a fad with most makers that get serious then move on to stabilized woods and other synthendics.

I used it for a while but it always had a third rate County fair look to it. IMHO.
It is a solid handle material so use a few sets and decide for yourself.
 
colu41,

Could you share the bookmark you have on steel qualities, I've been looking for similar info, and it'd be appreciated!
 
I use dymondwood for some knives. You have to be careful when you use it to avoid that made-in-pakistan feel that it can give, but it can be both attractive and classy if you do it right. I like it because it is inexpensive and has all or most of the properties that I look for in a handle material. Linen micarta is still my favorite, though. Here are a few of mine:
1510585_619815608088159_649700522_n.jpg

1000108_508189769250744_1534122547_n.jpg

1010479_606220662780987_713865551_n.jpg

(my ex girlfriend picked out this last one. I resisted, but in the end it looked much better than I expected. Still not what I would pick for myself)

- Chris
 
Between 440C and ATS-34, I would choose whichever has a better price or is in the size you want; the chemistry is pretty similar as are their reputations, and I'm certain they can both make very good knives. I doubt most people could tell the difference between them at the same hardness with pro-level HT.

Having said that, CPM-154 and AEB-L are my basic stainless steels.
 
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