Attaching a guard to a blade - questions

daveinvegas

daveinvegas

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Jan 2, 2009
Messages
309
I have a rasp blade that I want to put a brass guard on. The guard has a 1.24" x .1875" slot.

The plan is to enlarge the slot to fit the blade and slide it onto the handle portion up to the blade. This will be a full tang knife.

Question: what is a good method of attaching the guard to the blade? I was thinking silver solder but since I haven't done any silver soldering I'm hesitant to attempt it. I'm concerned about build up of solder. Will the solder flow well enough to fill any gap between the blade and the guard to hold it solidly while avoiding a build up which might cause problems when putting the handle on?

OR, if I put the handle on tight enough, will that be enough to secure the guard? I'm concerned about this as I won't be installing a pommel and/or peening (sp?) the tang.

Thanks



DSC00046.jpg
 
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As long as the handle is slightly smaller than the blade and the guard rests against the blade your handles will hold it in place.I would use JB Weld to seal itand help hold it in place.
Stan
 
I would drill and peen a brass pin in place. I'm not sure about the solder and the file grooves, should be O.K. If your hesitant about doing a procedure then DO IT! You will never progress in your skills as a knifemaker if you don't. Push yourself constantly and you'll be amazed how you improve. If you screw it up grind or cut it off and start again, making mistakes is the best way to learn. IMO Good luck
 
B.V. said:
WOW Dave, that looks good!

Brad
Click to expand...

Brad,

That's not the one you gave me; I'm still working on that one.

This one came from Anza Knives.

I'm gonna have to put that disclaimer with this photo every time I post it.
 
Regular lead solder will work fine, as will low temperature silver solder. Both have about the same strength. The advantage with the "silver solder" is the tiny amount of silver present allows it to adhere to stainless steel.
 
Hi Dave,

It has been my experience that solder isn't a great means to fill gaps. The old adage is, make a good mechanical fit first (no gaps) and then solder. If you're trying to fill gaps the likelihood of having the solder gob up or run into areas you don't want it to, becomes much more probable. A lot of folks use a black or gray JB Weld epoxy to fit up their guards with. You might want to consider that. Even then though, the less gap the better.

Keep those photos coming!

All the best, Phil
 
I'm have a tough time visualizing the guard installation that you are describing working on the blade blank shown, but I guess it doesn't really change my answer... pin and peen.:thumbup:

Show us what you come up with. Erin.
 
Dave,

Just thought I'd mention that if you get your slot a bit too big and have gaps on the sides you can tighten it up a little. Before I had a vise I clamped vise-grips on the guard, held it against the concrete floor and laid into it with a framing hammer. Came out beautiful.

-Josh
 
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