For a single guard, I notch the blade, making sure the bottom corners are ever so slightly rounded, and solder it on.
Some use pins also, but I found the solder quite adequate.
I can't get JB Weld to bond to the hard steel and guards or bolsters. I'm switching to Brownell's Original glass bedding compound for knife stuff that I use epoxy for. I'd like to hear why Mike rounds the corners too but my guess is the same as your's.
I eliminate ALL inside 90 degree corners, to reduce the risk of stress risers developing.
That is the same reason many also chamfer the edges of their tang holes.
This is not a big thing, and you can hardly notice it, as the radii are very slight, but I believe it helps.
I do it now just like Bob Loveless. He uses an end mill to cut the slot then simply match the radious on the bottom of the ricasso area. Use one or two pins and solder. There is no notch to worry about having stress risers. That notch can cause a real weak place. I have actually broken a 440c Paul Bos heat treated blade in half by hammering a brass guard into the notch. Live and learn.
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