Attempted a forge.

C

crank78

Joined
Dec 21, 2013
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336
I used a 6 in stove pipe. Used a 50/50 mix of plaster of paris, and sand mix. It don't work to well. I used a map 8000 torch from lowes. It heats well if I hold the torch in front and heat the blade like that. If I put the torch nozzle where it was designed to go it won't heat.

I'm not getting the swirl like I see in some videos. Maybe I need to smooth the plaster some so it would swirl? Anyone got pics of there's that actually works.
 
No need to reinvent the wheel since there are so many good plans for this. Search a bit and read up and see where you differed from the ideal setup.
 
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First of all, you probably want to coat it with an actual refractory material of some kind.

I'd hazard a guess that PoP/Sand is a terrible insulator, and a horrible reflector of heat. You'll be $100s of dollars (in fuel costs alone) ahead if you just purchase a few dollars worth of ceramic wool and coat it with a decent refractory.
 
yea I was hoping that just the plaster would work. as its all I could get now without ordering online. guess ill order me some insawool and some refractory.
is there any type of place local I may be able to get wool and refractory at. lowes does have the refractory, but no wool. I wasn't taking the cheap way out just the now way out as I am impatient and hate waiting on the mailman.
 
Search the yellowpages for refractory supply. You might find some options at a pottery supply, or if you have any local steel mills or places that use/build large annealing furnaces and such.

Keep in mind that using inferior materials is just going to cost you more in the long run: fuel costs, efficiency and function, replacement materials, time, etc....

It may take an extra week of waiting, but you want something that's going to serve you (and serve you well) for years down the road.
 
ok lol nothing close to me. I tap out. I guess im off to order some supplies. hopefully I can beat the pop/sand out of my pipe, it allowed me to ht two blades that should hold me over until I can get some shipped to my door.

I have read post of stacy saying a place to order everything from online does anyone know the name of that site I cant find it now.
nm I found it.
 
dang I should have been patient. I spent 80$ at lows. for a little more I could have made a forge capable of welding. I think ill just back up check out some plans and build one right this time as I know someday I want to try some Damascus.
 
How well (or not) would refractory cement work for him? I used the Rutland 2k to line my forge. Seems to be holding up well, although I haven't used it all that much.

I also got the Rutland 2.4k (I think that's what it is) in the tub, but the 2k in the caulking tube hasn't needed to be replaced.

I got both at Tractor Supply. The higher temp stuff in the tub wasn't stocked locally until winter started setting in. They were around $4-5 if I can trust my memory. I guess if you have to order online anyway, you may as well get what everyone recommends, but if you do find locally sourced materials, the Rutland stuff should be easily available.

Edit- I should mention that I use it to coat ifb, not as some sort of stand alone product. Probably obvious, but thought I'd say that anyway. :)
 
There is no equal to kaowool covered with satanite and a nice coat of ITC-100. Bubble alumina for a floor if you want the most flux resistant refractory I've been turned on to yet. (Thanks Stacy) Build a vertical with a kitty litter floor using the same materials as listed above (except skip the bubble alumina) if you want uber hot, uber cheap and uber efficient.

High temp tools has it all and takes paypal. Can't beat that with a stick...

There is some obscure dude down in old Mexico that forges out of some adobe/sand/potash kiln/forge thing. Name slipping the tongue right now. Short of his situation where he is doing it for lack of a functioning fed-ex route and real money (and tradition obviously) there is no substitute for real refractory materials. This isn't just an efficiency issue, there are safety concerns. And, Senor Crank, you won't warp your 1095 with uneven heat as much... ;)
 
Better to listen to Eric. I like my forge, but I know it's not the most efficient thing, and I'm sure, not as versatile as the ones he builds. All I'm doing as of now is heat treating 1084. I don't even really understand how my forge might be lacking yet. If you had the same goal as me, the cement would probably be fine, but if you want the best, use the best materials the first (or I guess second :p ) time.
 
Several boiler repair companies came up near you. That's where I buy all my refractory needs. They have been cheaper and much more helpful than the so called dealers around me.

mark
 
You also need a real burner. Most torches produce 2k-5k BTU while a burner will easily produce 30k BTU. A high-output torch is adequate on a one brick forge and bare minimum on a two brick forge. However, it will never have enough BTU for even an 8" long 3" diameter forge. The greatest forge in the world is still only so-so with an inadequate burner. However, there are some ugly-as-hell forges that work fine with a real burner.
 
All good advice.

Proper insulation
Proper refractory coating(s)
Proper burner and regulator.

All that matters on a forge is those three things. Saving in these places by substitution is foolish. The items needed for a forge build are not expensive, and picking the right materials will make a forge that will last for years. $ 100 will build a first class forge start to finish. Much less with some sourcing skills. As crank has discovered, it is easy to be near that in expense and still have a very low quality forge.


For local sourcing on refractory wool and coatings check for:
Local Pottery shops and suppliers
Local boiler supply and repair places
Plumbing and Heating repair shops
Nearby knifemakers

That said, it is hard to beat HTT&R for a one-stop-shop source.


Talking about Old Mexico - Years back I saw a South American ( Mexican?) forge build link. It was a good size forge sitting outside a rather primitive knife shop shack. The base was a pile of rubble with sand mounded on it. Over that was a long chicken wire tube about 16" round. This was lined with several layers of fiber wool salvaged from a closed factory. This was covered in a thick layer of home brew refractory made from ash, clay, and some sort of fireplace cement. The builder said the mix was used by the locals to line bread ovens. A floor of firebrick ( salvaged from the factory) was placed on the bottom. The back and front were made with piled up and mortared together firebricks. The front resemble a classic bread oven. The final semi-circular chamber was about 8" wide, 5" high, and 24" long. The outside was covered in 6" of adobe, with more chicken wire for strength. The propane burner was 3" pipe and a big squirrel cage blower. The forge worked very well according to the maker. Don't know if this was the one Eric saw, but it sure showed ingenuity.
 
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