Attention: For those who want a fancy Falcata. Pix and price change.

is the only experience I've had with Nepali woodchuckery. I began with 0000 steel wool, and in the corners/curves/nooks and crannies, used stffly folded piece of 600-grit. I used a stiff toothbrush to get rid of the residue from the rubbing. MOST of it appeared to be rouge-like. I wouldn't really call it a stain, because it wasn't in the wood deeply, but it finally (emphasis on finally) came off. The first 3-4 coats of oil leached out some more (not as bad as the handle of the Chitlangi) and the oil finally locked in whatever was left. The color went from reddish-brown to a nice walnut brown - a very good carving wood with little grain and softer than Saatisal. I didn't oilit heavily (used Q-tips in the tight areas) and was very careful using toothpicks to rout out the rouge and residue from the wool and paper rubs - as I said, it appeared to be softer than Saatisal,and I've lifted chips from that, with a toothpick, when the oil hadn't set up and the wood was still soft. Like always, go slow. I'm tempted to think about the Murphy Oil Soap, but if you use it, go very softly when brushing and mopping up. Maybe a very soft toothbrush and cotton balls, and when the moisture is "sopped up", let it sit for X days until dry. Don't use water - just the soap - and it shouldn't dry to the point of any damage. I wish I'd used it on my scabbard, just to know how this particular wood will handle it.
 
... no problem, I think the postman is getting use to the reception.

Well there it was a nice HI Falcata. The scabbard is absolutely excellent, the silver bands look and feel solid and tight, and the pictures really fail to do the woodwork justice. The carving is about a 1/2" deep, outstanding work!

The blade is very well done. I can't really add much more to what YVSA has said, but I agree with all of it. The lines on this blade are fantastic. This beast feels like it wants to chop. The weight is way forward and it is definitely not a sword for defense, but once that blade is in motion there will be serious damage.

I was going to say something negative about the handle; because it does feel very different from a khukuri, but, I've noticed that the more I hold it the more comfortable it's getting. I suspect it just plays differently and requires a little time to get use to.

If I can rig it I'll check the center of precussion to see if it is too far forward. If it is I might have to take some weight of the guard to adjust it.

n2s
 
The problem Falcata owners are going to have to live with is because of the handle design, the wood going around the corner so to speak, it begs to crack and if it hasn't it probably will. It'll crack down near the bottom of the handle -- my guess is almost dead center of the curve. To do it right, mix some same color sawdust with the epoxy and fill the crack. With luck it won't crack again but it might. For those who prefer and can work man make materials there are all manner of such stuff from which new handle slabs could be made. When you put your new handle on use copper rivets. It'll look better.

And -- many thanks for reports from the field. Maybe $125 wasn't too much for the Nepali woodchucks after all.
 
Walosi it appears that there has been perhaps more than one coat of pretty heavy varnish put over the rouge but tomorrow and some good daylight will tell more.
The finish is high gloss and not smooth at all. N2S is right on about the heavily detailed carving. It is deeper than any I have ever seen before.
Sorta makes me wonder how thick the wood is at the bottom of the carvings and the inside inletting for the blade.
The only experience with wood scabbards I have had is with the Keris and the blade themselves fit very loosely in them while the top of the blade and the Ganja are fitted carefully into the top ensureing a tight fit.
The Falcata fits this scabbard like a glove with just a slight drag at the top and maybe halfway down.
I'm wondering if the Murphy's will be strong enough to take the varnish off?
The background has the usual stamping tool used on it, sorta like a non defined leather background tool that blends instead of having defined lines. I like it.:)

What would you suggest if the Murphy's doesn't work?
Don't know why I'm concerned right now because it will be later on until I can get to it, just like to know I guess.:)
I think you know what I mean huh?;)

Uncle Bill posted, "And -- many thanks for reports from the field. Maybe $125 wasn't too much for the Nepali woodchucks after all"

Bro I don't think it was too much at all. This is not only heavily carved it is very detailed and exquisite as well. Very nicely done!!!!!

Let alone the very nice silverwork!!!!
 
Originally posted by Bill Martino
It's a project -- another!! project.

Gotta have something to look forward to Bro. Not all of us are chained to a job like you are.;) :p :D

And unfortuantely couldn't handle it if we were. Count your blessings that you get to work 20 hour days. It's truly a gift whether you realize it or not.:)
 
on my UBE scabbard is 1/10 to 3/10 deep. The slabs on each side measure 5/10 and 6/10, at the top, and they taper toward the chape. This came off when I was working the wood originally, and IIRC, each slab at the tip inside the chape was approx 3/10 (I'm using an old Starrett machinist's scale, and the 1/10 scale is the only one I can read - tired eyes :)) This is a little deceptive, as the surface is curved (spine to edge) and the degree of curve is harder yet to quantify. Inside, the slabs are flat, so it appears that Bhimsen left at least 3/10, possibly less at the tip. The stamp has tamped the wood between/around the figures, so depending on how tough the grain is to begin with, there is a fair amount of wood beneath the carving.

"Varnish" can be a lot of different things. If they make their own, or buy it from "the people in the woods" (:)) it is probably the original which originated in India - some sort of insect resin. I'd rather try to break it up with the oil soap a little at a time, and maybe 5-6 light passes instead of taking a chance that a modern wood stripper might work poorly on the compressed "stamped" areas, and start to seperate what has been compressed.

Your description of "several coats and not smooth" sorta bears out the idea of an old fashioned varnish - as I remember the surface of mine, it may have only been buffed and not varnished at all, or very lightly a most. I started getting rouge right away, with light steel wooling. You might test the surface with a light wooling, try the soap to see if the combination breaks up the varnish, and go on from there. Maybe the border around the panels (the only flat surfaces, on mine) would be a good test area, as it is thickest, and easiest to sand back into shape if my bright ideas turn out to be only 20W instead of illuminating.
 
Originally posted by Yvsa


"Not all of us are chained to a job like you are.;) :p :D"

Look on the bright side, Uncle. There are worse jobs out there... you could have ended up the Warden of a minimum security asylum. ;)

Oh, wait. Ummm.....nevermind! :p :D
 
The handle of my falcata will be getting a good coat of boiled linseed oil tonight after I'm done fondling it. With the extra tendency of the handle to crack, I'll have to be extra vigilant about oiling my handles regularly and on time. My oiling schedule is once a month during late fall/winter, once every other month the rest of the year.

Bob
 
Actually, I was a warden at SE Louisiana State Mental Hospital -- adult male ward where we got the criminally insane AND druggies. I lasted 6 months and quit. Otherwise, I'd had to change places and join them.
 
Back
Top