Auto Stops-Whats Best??

For the stop bar of coil (and leaf for that matter) spring operated autos, what is the best thing to use for a stop bar-obviously a Large hardened stainless pin right? 3/16"- but is anyone using titanium, or 1/8" size? Wanted some opinions. are you doing anything to beef up the holes where it rests? thanks.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
Messages
4,981
I don't know anyhitng about autos other than a few simple diagrams I saw of old swithblades. So I'll say this at the risk of sounding like a moron
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Chances are I always sound like a moron anyhow
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I wonder how well a titanium pin would work if you torched it in the same manner you talked about with liner and frame locks. The added surface hardness might make it resist peening better after the knife has been cycled alot.
Another thought is that since the lock is probably a liner, and there is something to keep the blade closed, there doesn't have to be any added length behind the pivot for the back spring to push against like in lockbacks and slipjoints. So the tang could be left completely round other than where the lock engages, and could sit right against a hardened steel spine that could have several pins going through it along the back of the knife. That way there could be two flat surfaces meeting up as the stop, instead of a flat and a round. And several pins standing up to the impact of the blade instead of just one.


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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
your are entirely correct about having a flat surface rather than a round pin as the stop...more surface area for one thing, instead on one little point to wack on.. but its SSSSSSSSSOOOOOOOOO easy to drill a hole and put a hardened steel pin thru it. and hardened steel roller pins are readily available everywhere...mostly i was wondering what the guys who make them use.. eh darrel????

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Tom,
Before I start, that was a great article on you in the current Blade Magazine.

A few years ago I built my large Model 4 into leaf spring autos. It had a slide button inlayed into the bolster and went into a liner lock action. I used a hardened 440C backstop pin that I turned down and heat treated. Same Rc as the blade. I still have #1 and it has probably been opened 20,000 times and both blade and pin are like they were when I put them in. 3/16" diameter press fitted in. The blade was 4" x .156".

Travers Tool Company has a tool, the Carbidizer, that is like an electric engraver. It lays a coating of titanium carbide on thru spark contact. Works well on the end of liners and backstop pins.
It was designed to overlay a hard (Rc 80) coating on gear teeth. I've used mine for years and still have the same 3/32" rod in it that came with it.

I've been looking for a square drill bit for square rod but can't find one in any of my catalogs.
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VERY FUNNY....onion has one of those carburizer thingys....will go over and check it out......as for the square hole....I have a very good machinist buddy who can punch square holes in anything.....just dont let your finger get in there....the machine is as big as my car.....

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 

KIT where do you find 440c in round stock?
i havent been able to find it. thanks,

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Tracy Dotson
Dotson's Custom Knives
"Think sharp"
 
Tracy,
MSC Supply Co sells it in sizes down to 1/2".
That stuff I used on those came from Fry Steel years ago.
 
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