Automatic razor utility knife?

Lapedog said:
There are many companies who have made Autos under 2 inches for California laws. I wonder if there are any under 1.5 inches.
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I have a Boker sub kalishnikov but the blade is 2". CT law states 1.5" of sharpened length and its still a little long for that. For me its just about the folded length. My stanley is at least 6" and I could get close to half that with a folder I think. Really just "want" an automatic- not a "need" of course...

Great conversation here- Kobalt Speed Release is another that looks interesting but has a long "tail" after the string cutter. Thought about buying one to see if I could customize it by shortening the handle and adding a spring to make it an auto- any chance anyone has one that could post a pic of it disassembled?
 
Driving around in a truck all day with 100+ replacements too.
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OK if quick replacement of the blade is important to you my suggestion may be worthless.
Or you just need to carry a 400 stone and a diamond strop and sharpen rather than replace. I do that.
I got all into box knives there for a while. I cut up way less boxes than I used to (nearly always large and double wall corrugated) .
I started out with these.
IMG_1651.jpg

Then found these to fit my uses (I use the hooked one for a specific purpose and the tiny thin frame means it is always on me.
IMG_3269.jpg

What I am picturing for you is . . . and bear with me and imagine if you will . . .
Take an auto that you really like, or switchblade, and shorten and mod the blade or get one of the pros here to do it for you.
Here is a rough example. This is one that I did. I'm not saying this knife, which is not an auto, would work for you but perhaps another knife similarly converted.

Here it is with his Homies before the mod. Third from top.
IMG_3679.jpg

A little snip snip
IMG_4353.jpg

A little grind grind.
Much thinner. And we have a utility knife with a good sized, versatile handle and the blade isn't all rattling around loose like so many box knives.
I really like these and have modded two others that are quite a bit different than this one.
Note that I also cut off the top wing of the "pocket hook". It was just in the way.
IMG_4369.JPG

Maybe there is a knife out there that you like that could be converted.
Sharpening is pretty fast for a box knife, I find it as fast and less fiddly than replacing blades in a box knife with a screw. Swipe swipe . . . strop strop.
 
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NJBillK said:
.....The beauty of these knives, is that they are disposable by design, so if replacement is needed, it is not cost prohibitive. Yes, they are more hardy than a plastic utility knife, but they have to be out of necessity. By taking advantage of them being designed to take a beating on a job site by folks that wouldn't otherwise care for a knife, they may very well survive for a longer than expected.
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A $20 knife is disposable or almost disposable in the sense of looser's remorse. But a $20 utility knife is kind of expensive and not disposable to me. I have quite a few utility knives that I use for work but never seen an automatic. I generally prefer the larger ones and not the regular lock back type as they are too small and you hit stuff with your hands using them.
 
Blues Bender said:
I've seen razors that open with the press of a button and a flick of the wrist, but they are junk.

IMO the classic 99 is the Cadillac of utility knives:D I've had all the fancy ones and they always break on me.
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I prefer my 10-499 which is pictured above, but either way you can't beat a Stanley utility knife no matter the US made model you choose.
 
Wowbagger said:
OK if quick replacement of the blade is important to you my suggestion may be worthless.
Or you just need to carry a 400 stone and a diamond strop and sharpen rather than replace. I do that.
I got all into box knives there for a while. I cut up way less boxes than I used to (nearly always large and double wall corrugated) .
I started out with these.
View attachment 819163

Then found these to fit my uses (I use the hooked one for a specific purpose and the tiny thin frame means it is always on me.
View attachment 819160

What I am picturing for you is . . . and bear with me and imagine if you will . . .
Take an auto that you really like, or switchblade, and shorten and mod the blade or get one of the pros here to do it for you.
Here is a rough example. This is one that I did. I'm not saying this knife, which is not an auto, would work for you but perhaps another knife similarly converted.

Here it is with his Homies before the mod. Third from top.
View attachment 819173

A little snip snip
View attachment 819183

A little grind grind.
Much thinner. And we have a utility knife with a good sized, versatile handle and the blade isn't all rattling around loose like so many box knives.
I really like these and have modded two others that are quite a bit different than this one.
Note that I also cut off the top wing of the "pocket hook". It was just in the way.
View attachment 819162

Maybe there is a knife out there that you like that could be converted.
Sharpening is pretty fast for a box knife, I find it as fast and less fiddly than replacing blades in a box knife with a screw. Swipe swipe . . . strop strop.
Click to expand...
I did exactly this with a Kershaw Emerson CQC 4KXL.
 
I don’t like the way the folding utility knives feel in use. A retractable knife like the Lenox Gold or the Stanley 99 is far more ergonomic and can store extra blades in the handle. The big handle plus small thin blade is a winning combination. If I were to have an automatic utility knife, I’d want an OTF like the manual ones I currently use. The Lenox bimetallic blades are plenty tough and their edge is high speed steel at high hardness laser welded to a softer back. Highly recommended.
 
Wowbagger said:
Maybe there is a knife out there that you like that could be converted.
Sharpening is pretty fast for a box knife, I find it as fast and less fiddly than replacing blades in a box knife with a screw. Swipe swipe . . . strop strop.
Click to expand...

Great pics Wow- I actually have another thread going about the Boker Kalishnikov knives that is right up this alley. Currently waiting for a mid size kalashnikov to arrive so I can A: see if the blade from the sub-K will fit or B: just re-shape the blade from the larger knife to be CT legal at <1.5".

I currently carry a Stanley 99E which is great ergonomically but would prefer something smaller which is why we are here. Would prefer a replaceable utility razor blade since I run around with 100 in my truck at all times but if this doesnt work out I am going to go the Boker route.

Is there a go-to thread around here on re-shaping and re-tempering blades that might be compromised?

Back to automatic razor knives.

I am waiting for this kit to arrive so I can tinker with them and have some spare parts... Where can I get a spring to make the auto action work?

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...d=0ahUKEwjxkrGg-6fYAhXL5CYKHWqVBFwQ8wII8AEwAg
 
Toolate said:
Is there a go-to thread around here on re-shaping and re-tempering blades that might be compromised?
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The short answer is no.
The long answer is yes.

No you can't retemper a blade as such; first you have to anneal it (softish) then harden it (since the hardness is what gets lessened by the heat of grinding it while the blade is too hot ) and finally tempered to remove just a little of the hardness so the blade isn't brittle and the edge isn't prone to chipping.

This all depends on the steel you are grinding. Some steel types do not get softened from getting it too hot while grinding, some of it isn't really annealable as such; kind of a one way hardening.

So the long answer is yes watch the blade smith's forums and look at the heat treat threads.
Those are links in blue.

If you are super careful you can grind a hardened and tempered blade without changing the temper significantly. That's what I do. Not saying it is quick to do this. Takes a slow speed grinder, a grind stone made for the purpose or a grinder wheel that is huge and running slow in water (small and running slow in water takes too long . . . I have that too).
 
If the law actually limits only the SHARPENED portion of the blade , could you just remove (unsharpen) say 1/2" of the rear part of a 2" blade EDGE ? Sure be easier than shortening the whole blade . Probably not good enough for a Nanny State .:mad:
 
panoz77 said:
Buy a $30 kalashnikov and sand it down, heck send it to me and I'll do it for you for free, just pay shipping both ways.
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Boker-Mini-Kalashnikov-Automatic--10758

Another option is get a Kershaw assisted open hotwire for $10 and do the same thing (opens really fast, near auto speed and feel), if you screw up you are only out $10.
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I have a larger Kalashnikov on the way to do this with. I am sure I can do it my self but really appreciate the offer!!! Is there any sort of thread around here on this type of thing while preserving temper?

I am a life long woodworker with all sorts of sharpening tools and sanding equipment (portable and fixed base shop tools).
 
DocJD said:
If the law actually limits only the SHARPENED portion of the blade , could you just remove (unsharpen) say 1/2" of the rear part of a 2" blade EDGE ? Sure be easier than shortening the whole blade . Probably not good enough for a Nanny State .:mad:
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I believe so but I dont want to argue that with a cop while I am in cuffs lol. Not expecting a run in but I like to cover my bases.
 
Just go easy, don't apply to much pressure and cool the blade in water after each pass on the sander/grinder. Feel the blade as you go to make sure it isn't getting too hot to the touch. Watch very closely at the tip where it is thin, don't stay in one spot, keep the blade moving across the belt and only make one or two passes before you cool the blade. If you see a color change, you lost the temper in that spot. It will take longer than just hogging off steel, but you won't have to worry about the heat treat if you go slow and easy.
 
panoz77 said:
Just go easy, don't apply to much pressure and cool the blade in water after each pass on the sander/grinder. Feel the blade as you go to make sure it isn't getting too hot to the touch. Watch very closely at the tip where it is thin, don't stay in one spot, keep the blade moving across the belt and only make one or two passes before you cool the blade. If you see a color change, you lost the temper in that spot. It will take longer than just hogging off steel, but you won't have to worry about the heat treat if you go slow and easy.
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What would be the "coolest" way to make a cut to remove the last 2" of blade to start? Would leave it long and then switch to grinding the profile I am after.
 
I have that or 4" cut off wheel just using very light pressure and water drip/quench every couple seconds.
 
Toolate said:
Has anyone seen one commercially made? Would really love one for edc in CT to be legal but cant seem to find one. Lots of manual units out there though and all are very clumsy. I work as a building contractor and right now just carrying a Stanley utility knife which is super convenient/comfortable in the hand but looking to downsize and carry and automatic but still retain the of the razor blades if possible. Fingers crossed that someone might have a solution for me.

These blades for the record.
531445_K_L.jpg


Thank you!
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Try this guy out. It is probably closest to what you are looking for.

 
panoz77 said:
Dremel tool with cut off wheel, under a water drip maybe.
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Yes the Dremel is much preferred over the MUCH thicker 4inch wheel which will generate lots more heat. Forget the water drip you will just get sprayed in the face. The HEZ (heat effected zone) is so narrow with the thin Dremel cut off wheel there is no problem.
I like to deeply score it but not cut through and then snap off the blade in the vise. Just cause it is interesting more than a superior way to do it.

PS: I keep thinking one day I will make a tiny little dagger out of that cut off with the twenty five cent coin.

In fact the photo of the tip with the coin shows there is no significant discoloration (damage to the temper) near the cut. It would be at least golden-tan or brown if it started to heat the blade enough to cause hardness change.
IMG_3340.jpg IMG_3636.jpg IMG_3668.jpg IMG_4353.jpg
 
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