Axe Head Restoration - Input Appreciated -UPDATED

Operator1975

Operator1975

Joined
Sep 24, 2010
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So I am on a little kick in the winter here about trying to bring some life back to the numerous unmarked heads I have. Many, either single or double bit have bits on them like this, that instead of me saying are gone, I would like to bring back.

So I am not a metal guy by any means, dont know a lot about metrics, hardness, etc. So I am just looking for some feedback and advice about how to go about this.

My first thought was to throw it on the electric grinder and be done in about 10 minutes, then sharpen up. My gut told me, and the old timer in "An Ax to Grind" video backed up - I should absolutely not do that, so I will not.

However the prospect of me and my bastard file going to town on that edge, well, seems like I shouldn't make any plans for about a week.

I do have a grinding stone bike as I call it - though it just has the seat and no pedals, so I have no way to efficiently turn the stone.

So like I said, not being an expert by any means, but getting more into the sharpening bug, which I have really come to enjoy, any thoughts, words of advice, or if you think it isnt possible on this head let me know.

It is a 5 lb unmarked head, overall in good shape except for the bit of course. Where I have drawn the black line is my first plans for filing back to straight on, then proceed to sharpen up accordingly.

SAM_0383.jpg


SAM_0384.jpg


Thanks in advance. (Sorry bored in the winter)
 
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Operator, I've used a 2x72" belt grinder to clean up an axe or two. You just have to go slow and patiently with lots of water dunks, and good fresh 36 grit belt. I'm not sure what kind of grinder your thinking about using. Personally, I'd be very wary of using an angle grinder. Yeah, a file would take a huge amount of elbow grease!
 
My 2 cents, I'd keep the lower corner of the bit where it currently is, in other words not grind back that existing lower corner (heel). The lower part of the black line would be moved to hit the heel in its current location. This would reduce the amount of metal to be removed.

On my computer, the first photo looks lifesize, 7-1/2" length. Where the black line is now would result in the center of the bit extending 1/2" beyond the line connecting the toe and heel. I recall reading that this is the maximum it should be for good chopping. My suggestion would reduce this to 3/8".
 
I would not hesitate to use a hand file. Just blend it into the rest of the blade like Steve Tall said. It's a nice head, but nothing special. It's just a user axe and filing it this way will not make any difference in its use or value.
Jim
 
Just my two cents, but I always use a bench grinder for reprofiling, one of those tiny 30 dollar eletric electric things. I know it goes against tradition, but I don't have time to reprofile my axes by hand. I just do a TON of water dunks and keep my fingers near the part I'm grinding, no farther than 4/16th of an inch away. If my finger starts feeling warm its time to dunk. Plus that way my fingers don't freeze in my cold garage.
 
It all depends on what you want...if you grind the axe back to the line you drew, that takes a lot of the life out of the axe. And you will need to thin the edge of the axe some unless you just want to use it for splitting. Edge thinning is most quickly done with a grinder or belt sander of some sort.

You could change the "angle" of your line as suggested, but that will change the geometry of the cutting edge and the handle. Depending on what you plan on using the axe for, that may or may not be a good thing.

Or you could just put a useable edge on the undamaged part of the blade and use the axe for rough work...cutting fence staples, chopping where you might hit the ground...about the 3rd or 4th time you need to sharpen the axe, you will be back to that broken corner and can do your edge thinning and sharpening then and will have gotten a lot of work out of the axe too
 
this isn't that Black Raven with the brutalized bit that was on the bay last week, is it? Back in the day they used to make sanding wheels powered by a pedal or a crank. I think that's the only real 'missing link' between a file and an electric grinder. Steve is right, I think you really only have to remove about half of that material if you work the chip into the existing grind. Got any good TV shows you've been meaning to catch up on? :)
 
PayetteRucker said:
this isn't that Black Raven with the brutalized bit that was on the bay last week, is it? Back in the day they used to make sanding wheels powered by a pedal or a crank. I think that's the only real 'missing link' between a file and an electric grinder. Steve is right, I think you really only have to remove about half of that material if you work the chip into the existing grind. Got any good TV shows you've been meaning to catch up on? :)
Click to expand...

It is almost done, hand file went way easier then I thought. You cant replace good old fashioned elbow grease.
 
You can replace a dull file though... speaking of which I have a few. Anybody know anyone that does file blades that will cut the cost of the material out if you send them an old one? There are a few necker designs I wouldn't mind trying... a little whittling wharncliffe maybe...
 
I bet it helps remove rust and gunk buildup between the teeth, and allows them to bite deeper. I should probably do that with my current file set. Operator, happen to have any finish pictures?
 
PayetteRucker said:
I bet it helps remove rust and gunk buildup between the teeth, and allows them to bite deeper. I should probably do that with my current file set. Operator, happen to have any finish pictures?
Click to expand...

It sure does. It's called a file card. Indispensable.
 
I do that kind of re-shaping with a 4.5" angle grinder. Use the thinnest zip disk to cut that line and then thin it down with a flap wheel. You go slow and make light cuts to keep it cool.
 
I am going to have to go the grinder route I guess. I have it straight filed back directly on the bit to where it is uniform now, but when I go to sharpen it I am not getting anywhere and the metal is pretty thick - I would estimate 1/8" thick. See what I can round up.
 
So here are some updated pics - about 95% done - slight touch ups here and there.

Old pic again :

SAM_0383.jpg


New and Improved :

SAM_0405.jpg


SAM_0406.jpg


So I think it looks good overall, but the bit is too curved. This is still a user and will have many years of life in it - and through use the curve of the bit can be brought back in. I tried to keep the curve in line with what the axe already had to try and make the process as simple as possible. I used a bastard file to directly on the bit and took it down to eliminate the huge nick, then gave it a couple love taps on the bench sander with a new 60 grit belt to help start that process, then filed away and also used hand stone to get the cheeks in line as well. I think this has potential to make a great splitter and general use axe. I will put up another pic when I get the handle done for it, hopefully today. Let me know what you guys think, I am looking for feedback good bad or ugly.

Thanks
 
It only took you forever!! :D Just kidding. Nice job. I agree that it's a little too curved but that's okay. Does it feel like good steel? If so, then you just robbed the grave.

It's cool that a guy with over 300 axes, many pristine, would take the time and elbow grease to complete a tough restoration on an old unmarked head like that. Good work, Operator!
 
Actually, it didnt take that long in actual time worked. It just happened to get some extra time on the workbench with the NFL playoffs.

I would say about 3 hours total time maybe. I have seen bits on axes curved worse for sure, and this one when you pick it up and look at it and feel it really isnt too bad, but it could be straighter or have less of a curve.

I have about 6 other old school heads that I am going to try to bring back to life. Keeps me busy during the winter and also moving, and it feels good to know maybe what was old and discarded can now have function and life again to someone.

Learn from this one and move on to the next and improve each time, thats the goal.
 
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