Axe? Please educate me

Cap’n Smudge

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Finds like that are certainly exciting.
Found this guy a couple summers ago.
gjX0SlNh.jpg

We had 7" of rain overnight, caused washouts all over the place. This was laying on the edge of a field 50 yards from where the old western reserve railroad used to be. I think they built that around the 1850's.
Someone told me I should not clean it off to avoid causing damage, I stuck it in a filing cabinet and forgot about it.
Now I have noticed a few spots where the rust has expanded and exposed fresh metal.
Any advice on what I should do to preserve it from here?
If you soak it in oil (I just use mineral oil) it will turn the “red” rust to “black” rust.
Red rust is fast moving oxidation black rust is super slow - as in you probably won’t notice any further degradation.
 
Last edited:

Brian77

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Joined
Nov 27, 2014
Messages
1,589
Finds like that are certainly exciting.
Found this guy a couple summers ago.
gjX0SlNh.jpg

We had 7" of rain overnight, caused washouts all over the place. This was laying on the edge of a field 50 yards from where the old western reserve railroad used to be. I think they built that around the 1850's.
Someone told me I should not clean it off to avoid causing damage, I stuck it in a filing cabinet and forgot about it.
Now I have noticed a few spots where the rust has expanded and exposed fresh metal.
Any advice on what I should do to preserve it from here?
Evaporust is a phenomenal product that a lot of us use that try to protect and restore old tools.
 

h7per

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Apr 13, 2020
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138
I finally got my camp axe mounted. I shaped the handle from a Black Locust blank from Thrane Axe & Sawmill. Now I need to make a cover for it and it will be ready for our summer camping.road trip.

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Happy for you!
Love Tuatahi.

May I ask you several questions?
1. Why you didnt go with their stock handle? Dont like geometry or their 24" handle is short for you?
2. What do you think eventho its called camp axe, the axe head is still huge (6"x6") and weighting over 3 pounds, so can it handle work of both big and small axe? Im waiting for their Work axe which is huge (6.7"x7") weighting over 6 pounds.
For felling axe 6 pounds is pretty heavy you know, and swinging it takes lots of enery, have heared from some people that camp axe can handle their work axe job and is nicies to swing with half of its weight.. tho some people complain about stock handle being short. As for me Ive ordered their work and camp axe with their stock handles.
3. Do you know that their are working on new project, small prototype is being processed, Hatchet. That will be amazing imagine their quality, 5" cutting edge and weight around 2 pounds, handle options 14" and 18". They started thast project several months ago. Regulary checking for updates and waiting for realease to buy one for sure. At the moment they have roughly forged axe head and going to give shape to it.

Thanks for sharing, amazing axe!
 

h7per

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Apr 13, 2020
Messages
138
The subject came up about a CPK axe. Honestly, it sounds like fun.


Would some of you guys educate me on the subject matter and perhaps point me in the right direction? What makes a good axe? What makes a bad axe? What kind or kinds should I make?

I dont really think that you will make big axe like Tuatahi Work Axe or their Camp Axe.
Because piece of 3V steel in those dimensions would be crazy hard to get and expensive, also milling it would be problematic (but not a challange for you). +making only Axe head and then fitting wooden handles wouldnt suit your style. Thats why I think when you talk about Axe you consider, hatchet, not big damn felling axe right?

So when it comes to hatchet and CPK, I think it wont be axe head either, you will make whole axe from one piece of D3V and fit scales (something what RMJ does and other people out there)

I wanted to write all this but was lazy and tired, so copied my friends text about small hatchet and edited it just a little bit:


The basic brief would be:

A light, accurate tool with the emphasis on balance rather than heavy chopping power.

Uses: cutting dead wood (ie manuka, pine etc) for making fires.
Splitting small wood for fire making.
Felling small live trees less than about 6" diameter
Cutting saplings for trail clearing, campsite clearing, limbing branches from larger dead trees for firewood, making stakes to be used in shelter building.

This axe would be of interest to people who take a day pack for hunting, fishing or tramping, but the weather closes in and it's necessary to quickly make camp. It's light and handy enough to carry in a day pack, and means a large knife does not need to be carried also.
In this "survival" scenario it is used to cut small trees and branches to make shelter, split firewood etc. With the bearded shape you can hold it behind the head and use it like a big knife to cut rope or large flax etc for shelter building.

Skinning and game processing:
For small game it can be used to cut off rabbits' feet and head before skinning etc.
Could also be used for helping to skin larger game like deer and goats, breaking bones, cartilage, sinews etc, and those heavier jobs normally done with a large knife.

Axe head:

The head has a bearded shape, deep notched to allow the axe to be held right behind the head and used for smaller tasks such as whittling points on stakes, small carving jobs, stripping bark off stakes etc.

Cutting edge approx 5"
This axe can double up and take over some of the duties of a large knife when held right behind the head.
The poll is squared off for small hammering duties, like knocking in tent pegs or small stakes for shelter building.

handle length 14", as a hatchet, for people who really want to keep it light and portable. (I would also suggest offering this same axe head witg a longer (19") handle (mainly for single handed use, but long enough for two handed use occasionally for felling a larger tree or cutting firewood) This length allows it to be put into a day pack, or strapped to the outside. Light enough to carry tramping, hunting, fishing etc.

Handle has a prominent end knob for good grip.
Handle just below head has enough thickness to provide strength against twisting (ie when splitting tough wood you can twist and wiggle the head and it won't snap)
But not so thick you can't wrap your hand around it, for using when doing finer work holding the axe right behind the head.
Some subtle knurling just behind the head to improve grip when hands are wet and slippery.
Handle is fairly straight (or with little curvature) for more accurate cutting.



Instead of using my amazing drawing skills (jokes, I suck at it) I found style of head which I was thinking about, done by RMJ, attaching picture for showing style.

Screenshot-2021-06-22-00-57-22.png


That axe head has almost everything Ive mentioned up in description. Just its butt (poll) should be flat and squared off for hammering (thickness of steel should be around .285" or bit more and with that thickness it wont be hard to hammer). and one more thing I would change in its design, on top, where usually is axe "eye" it has some weird bump (maybe for resting your thumb when holding the axe right behid the head?)
Love those wings ground out on it, gives amazing look (Tuatahi axe vibes).



Well thats all I can suggest about CPK Axe (max I can do is to make some small sketches of axe head and also whole axe (with handle as it would be one solid piece of D3V) but as Im not really good at drawing I would leave it up for Lorien to do + he has done some axes(hatches) before if I remember right. and of course CPK crew would do it perfectly without my sketches lol 😂, and from my side best I can do is to provied some information, hope I succedded at it).

Sorry it came out long post but wanted to fully write my thoughts about it and hope it helps at some point.

Looking forward to see CPK Axe prototype and handle one in (hopefully) near future 😁
 

Cap’n Smudge

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h7per h7per i had to get out the iPad to read that post.

“This axe would be of interest to people who take a day pack for hunting, fishing or tramping, but the weather closes in and it's necessary to quickly make camp. It's light and handy enough to carry in a day pack, and means a large knife does not need to be carried also.
In this "survival" scenario it is used to cut small trees and branches to make shelter, split firewood etc. With the bearded shape you can hold it behind the head and use it like a big knife to cut rope or large flax etc for shelter building.”

This paragraph is a good argument against this type of hatchet by CPK - I want to carry a large knife!

Not that I really know anything, but it seemed like, maybe, the consensus earlier in the thread was possibly, but not for sure, leaning a little in the direction of just an axe head. Or somewhere there abouts.

I‘m probably in regardless.
 

AR-Trvlr

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Oct 3, 2009
Messages
1,090
Happy for you!
Love Tuatahi.

May I ask you several questions?
1. Why you didnt go with their stock handle? Dont like geometry or their 24" handle is short for you?
2. What do you think eventho its called camp axe, the axe head is still huge (6"x6") and weighting over 3 pounds, so can it handle work of both big and small axe? Im waiting for their Work axe which is huge (6.7"x7") weighting over 6 pounds.
For felling axe 6 pounds is pretty heavy you know, and swinging it takes lots of enery, have heared from some people that camp axe can handle their work axe job and is nicies to swing with half of its weight.. tho some people complain about stock handle being short. As for me Ive ordered their work and camp axe with their stock handles.
3. Do you know that their are working on new project, small prototype is being processed, Hatchet. That will be amazing imagine their quality, 5" cutting edge and weight around 2 pounds, handle options 14" and 18". They started thast project several months ago. Regulary checking for updates and waiting for realease to buy one for sure. At the moment they have roughly forged axe head and going to give shape to it.

Thanks for sharing, amazing axe!
I didn't go with the stock handle because I wanted to make my own. I doubt it's any better, but it's mine. I did go with the same 24" length - at most this will be used camping, so nothing where I really need to get into it to chop down many trees.
No, I didn't know about their hatchet project. I'll have to keep an eye out for it.
 

Elgatodeacero

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Jan 5, 2014
Messages
1,878
It would be cool if the axe/hatchet had a properly heat treated hammer, like Liam Hoffman’s Trapper hatchet, but in 3V with a crazy new zone temper heat treatment that gives proper edge on blade and indestructible hammer on poll.

Leather mask and handles made of osage orange, 15 inches long, hatchet head 1.35 lbs.
 

mb>

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uY5io9rl.jpg

So it turns out the Small Forrest Axe isn’t all that small. THIS is small! 🤨 Lol

Nathan, I assume you’ll go more utilitarian on your first axe offering. But it would be cool if you did a hawk at some point too. I’ve had a hankering for one lately. I tried one and let it go due to an overly skinny handle. And the prices on the little things are crazy, ranging from $300-$1000. Hard to get my head around that. CPK bang for the buck on a hawk/hatchet would be fun to see.

B9RVXOv.jpg
 

Jeff Dickinson

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Mar 25, 2018
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uY5io9rl.jpg

So it turns out the Small Forrest Axe isn’t all that small. THIS is small! 🤨 Lol

Nathan, I assume you’ll go more utilitarian on your first axe offering. But it would be cool if you did a hawk at some point too. I’ve had a hankering for one lately. I tried one and let it go due to an overly skinny handle. And the prices on the little things are crazy, ranging from $300-$1000. Hard to get my head around that. CPK bang for the buck on a hawk/hatchet would be fun to see.

B9RVXOv.jpg
I have to agree with this gentleman. However I feel this type of tool would make a great first offering. A D3V tomahawk or breaching tool would be unbelievable. Plus the full tang construction model would allow the steel to further express its capabilities.

Many of the most popular "tactical hawk" makers seem to prefer 80crV2 for their models. Do you see any reason that steel would outperform d3v for that application? Any reading I've done on the matter cites cost as the primary setback of using 3v.
 
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