the only thing about the s&n is ive heard you needa have brian andrews workem over to function is this true?
I would have to say this is not true
What I do to axes is not rocket science. But, it is a science. You can pick up on some of the points rather quickly.
Of the mods that I do, 95% of your performance gain is going to simply be in setting up the forward cutting edge properly. The other mods that I do (evening the head, evening the bevel ramps, etc) are going to be things that an experienced axe user can appreciate. I am not so sure that the average user will even notice them. The handle is just a preference thing. I don't like varnish, and like the feel of oil, wood and wax.
I think this is the reason why GB is so popular. They are the only make that come setup with a good cutting edge. Problem for me is that the rest of the axe has issues that I am not willing to live with. If you never realize that, you will be fine with them
Back to the cutting edge.......I said that the most performance gain is going to come from getting the cutting edge set up right. With the exception of the GB, this is something that has to be done. All axes that I know of (at it has been this way for a long time) come with overly thick edges, and ones that are not sharp. It has always been left to the purchaser to set it up. Problem is, not too many people left who know how to do it. It is more than just being sharp. A sharp edge will still bounce and feel horrible if the shape is too thick. I have experienced axes that would easily shave hair, but bounce and cut like crap in oak. There is more to it than that.
If you look on page 4 of
An Axe to Grind, you will find a jig for a good profile for an axe. If you print it out, cut it out, and then make an axe grind to match it, you will be in great shape! You can make one a little thicker, or a little thinner to suit your own particular purposes, but that profile is a good starting point.
All that is needed is a file, and then finer and finer sharpening abrasives that you probably already have around.
The "fanning" technique of applying the edge is more important with the larger axes. However, I still do it on the smaller axes as well. This particular manual details how to do it, but not the "why." There is a good reason for it. If you want me to get into, I will, but my post is getting long enough as it is
Back to the original topic: Cost effective axe. Personally, what I would do it scan ebay. Look for an older Plumb, Collins or Snow and Neally. If you are patient, you can pick them up sometimes cheaper than shipping. Then, grab the files and the stones, and put in some time with them. When you are done, you will feel better about really understanding the tool you just worked on. You can also check estate sales, garage sales, and flea markets. Most people see and old axe, and do not think it is worth very much.
thanks and im also not very fond of the gerber sheath i was thinking of getting someone to make me a snap on kydex edge cover like the leather ones for gransfors so i can hammer with it on.
Personally, I would not hammer with a kydex sheath on. You have to remember when you hammer with the poll, the same impact is also being imparted from the sheath to the cutting edge. Kydex sheaths do not have a welt, and eventually, I bet it will force the rivets onto the cutting edge. Ask me how I learned this one
As you can see, even the welt did not stop this from happening, and the rivets did damage the edge on the way through :grumpy:
It seems like the safe thing to do. Hammer with the case on. For a long time, I was hammering without one. Now, I started making my own sheaths with a thicker welt, and have not had an issue. But, time will tell more on that one still.
B
um i meant to put this : 
