Axe restoration tips

P

pokesalad

Joined
Jul 26, 2011
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Today I was rummaging around in one of the barns and turned up an old Plumb double bit axe head. It was stored well (looked like it was coated in grease) but has some surface rust. I would love to bring this thing back but I don't want to destroy the markings if at all possible. Anyone have any tips or advice on cleaning the head and bringing the metal back to life without destroying the markings? Thanks in advance.

Poke
 
Hey there Poke. There are already a few threads on restoration on the forum. This one is pretty comprehensive: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/802951-Project-First-axe-restoration

As for rust, if it's not too bad I'd try lightly sanding it off first, just be careful of any stampings on the head. I'd reach for some 320 or 600 grit. For a more aggressive approach I've always had the best luck with plain old white vinegar, that might be overkill, but it will leave any stampings intact. I've heard of folks soaking a rag in venegar and laying it over the head too if it's still attached to the helve.

Operator1975, has a lot of experience in restoration and preservation, he might have some more specific advice.

Nick
 
Vinegar is good, but can be too much if u let it get after the head for too long (trust me I know).

For real light rust, sometimes WD40 will do the trick. Give it a good soak say for an hour, then a good wipe down. Sometimes that will work, sometimes not. You can also use a toothbrush to help, again if it is light.

Otherwise, my favorite rust remover is my Milwaukee angle grinder with 3 inch coarse wire wheel. I will caution you that depending on the rust level, this will throw fine particulate dust/rust into the air, so be well ventilated and wear a face mask and goggles, the wire from the wheel will come flying off, and is very dangerous for the eyes. However it is the fastest way I have found to remove rust, and get you back to the old shine that your axe head is looking for. It should not hurt any stamping. Obviously if you have one that has color in the stamping it will remove that, so again be careful.

If you have time and patience, vinegar (just plain white vinegar, dirt cheap at the grocery store) is probably the best way. I am not a big sanding guy myself, I don't like my axes shiny, and I feel that is what sanding does. However a lot of guys like it, and I can sometimes see why, just not overall for me.

Hope this helps.

Thanks.
 
How long do you suggest to leave it in the vinegar bath? Are we talking a few hours or overnight? Do you use water to neutralize the vinegar afterward or something else? I hate to sound so "newbish" about it all but this is my first go around and I would like to do it right. Thanks for the advice.

Poke
 
I have left an axe head in vinegar for up to 7 days. Usual time is 1 to 2 days, depending on the rust factor. Then take it out and rinse it off outside with garden hose and toothbrush, then perhaps clean it up somemore with light sanding and wd40.
 
Vinegar will patina the steel as well, so be prepared for that. Gives it a dull gunmetal finish. The hardened bit edge will get darker than the rest of the head if it's left in the vinegar for an extended amount of time. I'd go with Operator's suggestion. Start with the least aggressive method, then work your way up.
 
Yeah thats another reason I am not too crazy about vinegar. It does give that gray color to the axe head, and then the bit(s) will turn black. Some guys like that though. Also fresh vinegar works better than old vinegar that has been sitting around. Also good ole mustard will work too, it is the vinegar that is in it that does all the work, but it does it slower and not so harshly. The 2 if have done with mustard have actually turned out quite well. You just have to put it in a closable bag to keep the mustard from drying out.
 
Try reverse electroplating with a saltwater solution. Attach a piece of copper wire to the ax head and bring the wire out of the solution. The other part of your circuit would be a piece of rebar. Connect eachindividual piece to a battery charger and watch the rust melt away and head to the rebar. This system will only take the rust away and leave all else as is.
 
Awesome info folks. I truly appreciate your kindness in passing on this information. I feel much more confident in the process now. Thanks very much.

Poke
 
StanC said:
Try reverse electroplating with a saltwater solution. Attach a piece of copper wire to the ax head and bring the wire out of the solution. The other part of your circuit would be a piece of rebar. Connect eachindividual piece to a battery charger and watch the rust melt away and head to the rebar. This system will only take the rust away and leave all else as is.
Click to expand...

Now this I have to try. Might take out extra insurance on the garage first though.
 
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