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It is also possible to hard chrome the blade. One of my friends did this to my AFCK as an experiment. It turned out to be a worthwhile test because he now does Emerson's hardchroming.
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Axis AFCK How do you like them?
- Thread starter John Puckett
- Start date
Quoted from Dirk:
Undoubtedly some one will try this with sad results.
1) there isn't room for clip screws in front of the pivot. This model uses a different spring configuration.
2) hardened 410 SS liners can be drilled with carbide drills but tapping those holes is another chalenge!
Rick
Undoubtedly some one will try this with sad results.
1) there isn't room for clip screws in front of the pivot. This model uses a different spring configuration.
2) hardened 410 SS liners can be drilled with carbide drills but tapping those holes is another chalenge!
Rick
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- Oct 26, 2000
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The edge on mine needed a little work-had a burr on one side, and the bevel wasn't perfectly even (funny I'm the guy who has always had great luck with the edges on his Benchmades).
It was thin, though...about 30 degrees included, and fixing it up was a snap.
btw, it's super-smooth
I haven't had an AFCK in awhile (coworker got my old one), and when I opened the box it was like meeting an old friend, who had been working out since I last saw him
All the things I like are still there. All the things I would've changed...have been changed (ok, except that d@%& spacer). Benchmade's got a real winner on their hands, IMO!
It was thin, though...about 30 degrees included, and fixing it up was a snap.
btw, it's super-smooth
I haven't had an AFCK in awhile (coworker got my old one), and when I opened the box it was like meeting an old friend, who had been working out since I last saw him
All the things I like are still there. All the things I would've changed...have been changed (ok, except that d@%& spacer). Benchmade's got a real winner on their hands, IMO!
- Joined
- Mar 19, 1999
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- 2,277
Rick, thanks for the info. I had read in another post somewhere that there was room for the clip, the challenge was going to be tapping. I have tapped hardened steel before. Much patience is needed and keep the tap absolutely true with the hole. If you breath to hard on it in hardened steel, the tap will break. I drilled and tapped a ss linered knife from DDR. Took me a very long time. I ended up breaking the tap in the hole and just sent it back to Darrel.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 1998
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- 7,394
Got one in today. The edge is very sharp. It would no doubt be my perfect edc if it werent for the BT2 coating. I may let this one go and get a 805 when it comes out.
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- Dec 25, 1998
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805 is the TSEK with axis lock.
I have owned an AFCK with spydie hole and liner lock for two years now. I have owned a lot of knives, but I keep coming back to it because it has the best feel of the knives that I have owned. In terms of speed, carrability, and ease of deployment, it is just going to be dang hard to find a better factory tactical folder in my opinion.
I do not have the axis lock model AFCK nor do I plan on buying one. It seems to me that the axis lock model would be heavier, and the action would not be as smooth as the liner lock model. I have owned the 710 axis, and it is not as smooth as the liner lock AFCK, and this is why I do not think it could be as smooth as a liner lock.
Also, I am not completely sold on the axis lock. Why, that is mostly personal preference, but it is my belief that an object could accidentally disengage the axis on a forward thrust. That is solely my observation, and I have done no testing to prove this belief.
Big D1
I do not have the axis lock model AFCK nor do I plan on buying one. It seems to me that the axis lock model would be heavier, and the action would not be as smooth as the liner lock model. I have owned the 710 axis, and it is not as smooth as the liner lock AFCK, and this is why I do not think it could be as smooth as a liner lock.
Also, I am not completely sold on the axis lock. Why, that is mostly personal preference, but it is my belief that an object could accidentally disengage the axis on a forward thrust. That is solely my observation, and I have done no testing to prove this belief.
Big D1
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- Apr 3, 2001
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The axis afck is on my short "to buy" list! I do wish the blade was uncoated, but I don't really see that as a reason not to buy an excellent knife... If it was only offered fully serrated or some such b.s. though, I'd definitely pass.
I, for one am very glad it's tip up carry. I HATE tip down knives. I just can't stand 'em. To keep a folder closed, I wear it with the blade spine against the side of my pocket. With tip up knives, I have to put it toward the inside seam of my right front pocket and it keeps sticking out when I sit down and turning sideways, etc. I like it much better tip up against the outside seam. It doesn't get in the way near as much.
The only tip down knife I own is a rekat pioneer II. The only reason I still own it is because it's a great design. I wouldn't get rid of it just because the clip's on the WRONG end!
I, for one am very glad it's tip up carry. I HATE tip down knives. I just can't stand 'em. To keep a folder closed, I wear it with the blade spine against the side of my pocket. With tip up knives, I have to put it toward the inside seam of my right front pocket and it keeps sticking out when I sit down and turning sideways, etc. I like it much better tip up against the outside seam. It doesn't get in the way near as much.
The only tip down knife I own is a rekat pioneer II. The only reason I still own it is because it's a great design. I wouldn't get rid of it just because the clip's on the WRONG end!
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- Dec 25, 1998
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It is one of the smoothest axis locks I have handled.
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- Mar 19, 1999
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My 806 arrived today! Merry Christmas!
I have been "playing" with it all day. I love the steel liners. Very stiff handle and not a terrible increase in weight. I personally wouldn't have a problem if BM used this same liner on the 804. There has been a discussion about the possibility of disengaging the lock on the 806 by accident. After playing with the knife all day, I can see a scenario where this could happen. I managed it while changing my grip from saber to hammer grip. As I brought my thumb off the spine, it contacted the lock button and disengaged the lock. I hadn't snapped the blade open very hard. i found that if I did open the knife hard, the tension appears to be too great for the lock to disengage in the manner i described. The other alternative is to reduce the height of the button a bit. It looks like caution should be used if you try that. The way the buttons are attatched to the lock bar, it is possible you might grind away the peened over part of the bar holding the button on.
Overall, I am very pleased. At this time it won't take the place of the 800 or 804. However, reducing the height of the button might do the trick for me. Now If I can get the SS liners on the 804, I'd really like that!
I have been "playing" with it all day. I love the steel liners. Very stiff handle and not a terrible increase in weight. I personally wouldn't have a problem if BM used this same liner on the 804. There has been a discussion about the possibility of disengaging the lock on the 806 by accident. After playing with the knife all day, I can see a scenario where this could happen. I managed it while changing my grip from saber to hammer grip. As I brought my thumb off the spine, it contacted the lock button and disengaged the lock. I hadn't snapped the blade open very hard. i found that if I did open the knife hard, the tension appears to be too great for the lock to disengage in the manner i described. The other alternative is to reduce the height of the button a bit. It looks like caution should be used if you try that. The way the buttons are attatched to the lock bar, it is possible you might grind away the peened over part of the bar holding the button on.
Overall, I am very pleased. At this time it won't take the place of the 800 or 804. However, reducing the height of the button might do the trick for me. Now If I can get the SS liners on the 804, I'd really like that!
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- Dec 25, 1998
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I believe the prototypes didn't have the coating. When I saw the picture of the satin finished one I thought I had found the perfect knife.
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- Oct 12, 1998
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Wonder if the boron coating will be available later on???
Anyone know if a mini is in the works?
Well, Steve's chimed in. Wonder if Joe T. has played with one yet...
Anyone know if a mini is in the works?
Well, Steve's chimed in. Wonder if Joe T. has played with one yet...
- Joined
- Dec 25, 1998
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Here is a quote from joe T. on the Benchmade forum:
"I wouldn't be horrendously shocked if at some later time Benchmade comes out with a stainless version, but Benchmade is very close-lipped about their plans. Currently, all that's available is black-coated D-2. As e_utopia said, D-2 is not stainless, but it's also nothing like L-6 or O-1, in that D-2 does not stain easily. I'm considering rubbing the black coating off my Axis AFCK when I get it, and just keep it tuff-clothed-up. If Benchmade absolutely must keep coating their D-2, I'd prefer they switch to boron carbide. In fact, I'm holding off a bit on purchasing one in the hopes that the next run is boron carbide.
e_utopia gave a good rundown on D-2. The only nit I'd pick is the statement that D-2 will "take and hold" a better edge than 8A. It will absolutely crush 8A in edge holding, for sure. But to this day, I consider 8A one of the best edge-takers I've ever experienced, pretty amazing for such a cheap, easy-to-work steel. I consider my sharpening a success if I can get any knife up to the sharpness of my cheapie 8A knives! VG-10 definitely takes an 8A class edge or better, as does BG-42. D-2 takes a pretty outrageous edge too, but I'm not quite ready to say that any of those steels really outclasses 8A, the way 8A outclasses, say, ATS-34.
e_utopia, are you really getting your D-2 edges that much sharper than your 8A knives?"
Joe
"I wouldn't be horrendously shocked if at some later time Benchmade comes out with a stainless version, but Benchmade is very close-lipped about their plans. Currently, all that's available is black-coated D-2. As e_utopia said, D-2 is not stainless, but it's also nothing like L-6 or O-1, in that D-2 does not stain easily. I'm considering rubbing the black coating off my Axis AFCK when I get it, and just keep it tuff-clothed-up. If Benchmade absolutely must keep coating their D-2, I'd prefer they switch to boron carbide. In fact, I'm holding off a bit on purchasing one in the hopes that the next run is boron carbide.
e_utopia gave a good rundown on D-2. The only nit I'd pick is the statement that D-2 will "take and hold" a better edge than 8A. It will absolutely crush 8A in edge holding, for sure. But to this day, I consider 8A one of the best edge-takers I've ever experienced, pretty amazing for such a cheap, easy-to-work steel. I consider my sharpening a success if I can get any knife up to the sharpness of my cheapie 8A knives! VG-10 definitely takes an 8A class edge or better, as does BG-42. D-2 takes a pretty outrageous edge too, but I'm not quite ready to say that any of those steels really outclasses 8A, the way 8A outclasses, say, ATS-34.
e_utopia, are you really getting your D-2 edges that much sharper than your 8A knives?"
Joe