Axis lock dilemma

Ok. I went to the store to get me some Locktite. There were several to choose from. The only blue I found had a brush to apply the glue. Is this the one? Will it be ok to use?
 
It's not just benchmade knives or axis lock knives. My para used to loosen up really quick. I put a couple wraps of teflon tape on the pivot screw and problem solved. Some knives (like Striders) come already loctited.
 
I also use purple loctite. It is easier to break free when needed. It is impossible to find in retail outlets. I use beeswax on some bicycle parts to help stop Vibration loosening, it adds some "stiction" but doesn't glue things in place. Linseed oil is what I use on spoke nipples, that would also work as a light locking compound, but it takes days to dry.

Blue loctite is called "242"
 
Well I tried some Teflon Tape on the screw and it seemes to work! Thank you Tiny86 for the tip! Before I had to adjust the screw once a day, and now it has been rock solid for four days with the tape! Feels great not to need to put superglue in my NRA Mini Grip! A cheap solution as well. This is a great forum!

This is Teflon Tape
 
Well I tried some Teflon Tape on the screw and it seemes to work! Thank you Tiny86 for the tip! Before I had to adjust the screw once a day, and now it has been rock solid for four days with the tape! Feels great not to need to put superglue in my NRA Mini Grip! A cheap solution as well. This is a great forum!

This is Teflon Tape

Hey man, glad you got it worked out!
 
This thread kind of worrys me; I just ordered a Ritter Griptillian; can I expect the same problem as discussed here? If so, I'll send it back; don't need to have to rebuild a damned knife just to get it to work right!
 
This thread kind of worrys me; I just ordered a Ritter Griptillian; can I expect the same problem as discussed here? If so, I'll send it back; don't need to have to rebuild a damned knife just to get it to work right!

Unscrewing a torx screw and putting a dab of loc-tite or a wrap of tape on the threads and reinstalling it does not constitute "rebuilding a knife".
 
This thread kind of worrys me; I just ordered a Ritter Griptillian; can I expect the same problem as discussed here? If so, I'll send it back; don't need to have to rebuild a damned knife just to get it to work right!

Easy man, deep breath! ;)

You don't need to worry. You knife should be just fine.
 
Didn't want to start a controversy but having to do what is described just turns me off; lubing, working one some fine but , for the money, they should work out of the box, at least for me.
 
This thread kind of worrys me; I just ordered a Ritter Griptillian; can I expect the same problem as discussed here? If so, I'll send it back; don't need to have to rebuild a damned knife just to get it to work right!

No need to send it back, just send it to me! :p :D
 
I had a new Rukus that was hard to unlock at first. I just kept on opening and unlocking it and it's easy now.
 
When buying Loctite go buy the number not the color of the package. 242 (aka "blue") is medium strength for general purpose applications. 222 (aka purple) is low strength for fasteners <1/4" in diameter.

I've seen 242 in a red package.:confused:

272 (aka red) is the stuff to avoid because it will need heat to remove a fastener that has had 272 used on it.
 
This thread kind of worrys me; I just ordered a Ritter Griptillian; can I expect the same problem as discussed here? If so, I'll send it back; don't need to have to rebuild a damned knife just to get it to work right!


Yup, that's how the Griptilian became one of the most popular production knives ever, by requiring the user to rebuild it so it'd work right. :rolleyes:

My Grip was perfect out of the box. The Mini-Rukus I used to have would loosen at the pivot after a few flicks, added some 242 and problem solved. required 10 seconds of work.
 
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