AXIS lock stuck!!!

There are those of us that do encounter problems and have the freedom to discuss them in an open forum for that purpose without having wannabe superheroes insinuating things...
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Sure, I’m just wondering why I shouldn’t express my opinion and discuss my experience at the same opened forum...
does anybody have an answer to the removing grease off G-10 problem? I did a quick search and came up emtpy...
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Blast it with the decent amount of WD-40 or something similar, then with compressed air (bicycle pump should be enough).
 
If it is your opinion that I am either lying about what has happened or somehow damaging my knives then you can keep it to yourself. The issue is that I have a problem with my knife and I am seeking answers. I do not care to have people such as yourself attack the fact that I have had a few knives with problems. Firstly I do not see any law that states that knife defects have to be proportional to the number of knives you purchase. Secondly if you recall the defective Spydercos were all from the same source the new source I have not had problems with. Thirdly my 710 is problem free and the 806 problem is fairly common. I am surprised you have never heard of it as you say due to your obvious experience with knives and knife purchasing as a whole. On second thought, maybe it's cuz you never get defects...and refuse to understand those that do...

If I have problems with my purchases I will ask for advice since I am new to knives. Believe me I do not wish for such bad luck and I do recognize that it's not been as great as I'd wish without you having to tell me how unlucky I am with such sarcasm. I do not understand the reason for your posts. If you are trying to help, being a troll is not helping. If you are attemting to criticize me for the bad luck I have had so far then save it for your own thread which I will not attempt to read. If you are expressiing your opinion then why don't you be more clear about what exactly you are trying to say. From what I understand you opinion makes no sense.
 
Send it to BM..., leave it exactly as it is.., call Angie.., and tell her it's on the way...not a big deal....
 
Originally posted by curious2003
Firstly I do not see any law that states that knife defects have to be proportional to the number of knives you purchase.
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That would be the law of averages. It's usually quite accurate, but every once and a while there's an exception.

Anyway, are there any protrusions or rough areas on the portion of the blade which the axis bar rides on, maybe some bad machining or uneven coating? This could cause it to hang up. Look carefully at it, and make sure it is absolutely smooth.
 
if the problem doesn't fix itself after a work-in period I will look into sending it to Benchmade. However I really would prefer not to as there is the hassle of shipping and insurance, etc

I do not think returning it to the dealer would be a good option either as I end up losing shipping charges and I don't know if I get any duties/taxes/etc refunded

no the lock looks fine from what I see. There is no coating or uneven surfaces. I have no clue why it "sticks" so much
 
actually I took a closer look just now...

on the 710, the part where the bar rides onto the blade if totally flat and even

however, on the 806 is appears to be very slightly dented in

i do not know if this is normal for the 806 or if that is the reason why it sticks so much. It does makes sense if you picture opening harder causeing the bar to ride higher up that part. Then it would be harder to disengage it since the bar would be on the indented part and pulling back on the lock would be like trying to pull it OVER the slight bump

can anybody look at their 806's and tell me if that part if flat like my 710? otherwise that is the problem...
 
I don't have an 806, but on the 720 and 2 Griptilians that I have here the locking surface is absolutely smooth and flat with no dents anywhere.


I would imagine that if the handle slabs are stained the dealer will not accept it back.
 
no they are not stained but you can see some contrastng spots under certain lighting conditions

I suspect that the knife came that way as opposed to me doing it. I had originally assumed that it was the grease that somehow got on but looking at the placement of the patches compared with the way I held the knife when applying the grease, there seems to be a difference

Maybe it's not even grease/oil like I originally thought but the fact that the G-10 is different? Or maybe it is but it was like that from the factory. There are spots where I did not even touch before so it makes me wonder.

Anyhow I'll see if the sticking goes away in a few days. If not I will either send it in to BM or back to the dealer
 
curious2003:
Are you removing grease from G-10? WD-40 works OK, but then you have to remove the WD-40. Go to an electronic supply store and buy some spray contact cleaner or spray circuit board wash. Use the WD-40 to degrease and then use the contact cleaner. I use ‘LPS Electro Contact Cleaner'. It’s safe on all surfaces and leaves no residue. G-10 is very similar to circuit board material. :)
 
I have carried both a 710 and an 806 daily ever since each of them became available for purchase. Never had a problem with either. I haven't heard of ANY "fairly common problems" with either knife. The axis lock is a relatively simple mechanism, if you can't figure it out, then Angie at BM will surely take care of you - she's the bomb. :D
 
Curious,
I have somewhat cooled down during this night (here is morning right now) and I could clarify my quite rough position somewhat calmer. However basically my opinion didn’t changed.

You have told pretty fantastic things about SPYDERCO Endura first. Maybe my disbelief could seem offending for you, maybe... However look at the things from another side. Even glass blade wouldn’t chip cutting newspaper. So why should I play an idiot saying that I believe your story? Just to look polite? IMO it is false politeness!

OK, this could be some kind of super-fantastically-unbelievably-rare occurrence. I’m sure SpyderFolks would be more than happy to inspect your knife in their laboratory. And they would send you completely problem free, specially inspected knife with no charge.
Quite many people (including myself) advised you to send your knife to SPYDERCO and this was the most sensible thing you could do.
Did you? Nope! You have concluded that you will never buy another SPYDERCO knife and you did it in publics playing heavily offended person. At least I did percept your posts exactly this way, interested persons could find this thread and read it again.

Now you are asking for advises and information on BENCHMADE Axis AFCK sticking lock. I don’t want to say you are lying. However nobody can inspect your knife or/and repair it via Internet sitting in front of his (her) computer. Should I explain you such things?
So Folks advised you to send it to BENCHMADE and – again – this is the most sensible thing what you can do.

If you do not follow these natural and friendly advises this cause to doubt what you really do want – to have problem-free, fully functional knife or to inflate public sensation? I don’t know what you do have in your mind talking that to send knife back is to hassling for you. I send and receive tons of different correspondence weekly and I’m alive so far. It’s also shouldn’t be too expensive since you are in Canada – what should say in comparison overseas Folks? To send knife back receiving after some time perfectly working one is too hassling for you? And to “chew” your problem here endlessly without any chances to put your knife in order this way isn’t?

What are you going to do now, if it is not secret of course (again – nobody can repair your knife via Internet!)? Is it less hassling for you to return the knife to dealer, to claim here “no one BM knife anymore!” and to try out next brand?

I’ll try to advise you once again and – belief me or not – in the best intentions:
  • Make sure that your knife is really BENCHMADE. I know, it sounds pretty silly, however you would be heavily surprised knowing how many people buy cheap rip-offs thinking they buy brand-named knives and not knives only.
  • Contact BM customer service and ask for instructions how to return this knife to the factory.
  • Do it following their instructions.
  • Receive perfectly working knife. BTW, more than likely you will receive it’s newest incarnation with bronze washers and tip up-n-down carry options.
  • Tell us this story, if you want of course.
  • Enjoy your new knife! :)
This is not simply the best way you can behave – in fact this is the only sensible way. Maybe this could sound oddly for you but knife manufacturers are not your enemies, you have no need to fight or badmouth them. You would be completely entitled to do it if BM or any other manufacturer would refuse to repair your knife without any sensible reasons.

For the Folks who could be interested. Axis AFCK blade ramp is concave, indeed. However the part what matches the locking bar is flat, there are only some first millimeters of ramp, decent deal in front of concave place.
Sometimes my AFCK axis lock tends to stick slightly if I flick it open especially hard, for ex. banging the handle spine of partially opened knife against something. However even in case of this barbaric treating the force of my single finger is quite enough to unlock the blade. do I have unnaturally strong fingers, hmm?
 
Curious,

send it back to BM. Can´t see to help you here.

I never had problems with oil, you use militec, so i do, on G10. I never washed my knife with soap. I use a dry towel and nothing more. No spots nothing.

Sometimes i open bottles with the handle and there are grey scratches on the G10. I use any kind of oil to get it back in black. I really can´t see or even believe in your problem.

Send it back. It must be easy from canada to Oregon USA. Much easier than from germany, where i live.
 
sergiusz mitin

The Endura when I got it had a perfect blade. The only thing I cut with it was newspaper and normal paper. As you recall it was a bit of the serrations that came off and not the plain edge portion itself. I do not think it is that implausible that maybe the serration was cut a little too thin or had an uneven piece that chipped off. I know what I cut with it, I know it was not like that when I got it, I know nobody else handled the knife, I know that it wasn’t dropped. So if you are not an idiot, you must therefore believe I made up a story for no reason at all to get ppl such as yourself all over me correct? You do not have to have FALSE politeness if you are not polite. However please save your offensive scepticism to yourself. You already stated such things in other threads. This thread has nothing to do with that so there is no need to go out of your way to be rude. If you do not believe me don’t reply. Simple isn’t it? :)

By the way just b/c you say that I should send it in doesn’t mean I suddenly have to abide by your words of advice. It was easier for me to return the knife for a refund which I in fact did if you had again used your super powers to read what I wrote. THAT was easier for me to do. I didn’t know not sending a knife in made me a bad person or suddenly suspect to Bladeforums investigators such as yourself.

As for the AXIS lock if it is a common occurrence there would be no reason to fret. That is why I asked here first seeing that there are a lot of people unlike yourself who see nothing wrong with taking the time to type a quick answer for me without jumping to any conclusions irrationally. I am new to knives. I am new to the AXIS lock. If a simply post in a forum could answer my question and there is no problem why would I send it in? But if I don’t ask how the heck would I know? Unlike you I do not have superpowers. So you answer that I should send it in. Fine. But don’t chide me for asking in the first place. I did message BM and have yet to receive a reply.

As for the hassle thing, again you seem to have a view that what works for you must therefore work for everyone else. What to me is a hassle is to me a hassle. You really are on a roll eh? Now it’s about inflating public sensation. Are you a conspiracy theorist by chance? And what I mean by hassle I meant too much of a hassle to send it in for them to look at if somebody in the forums can explain to me what happens. By the way I did get this explanation from the BM forum and from older threads in this forum. So therefore I can save myself the hassle and NOT send it in b/c now I have a explanation about what happened to my 806, because it has happened to others before me. Now I saved myself the trouble of sending it in. You following?

As for ‘chewing’ my “problem here endlessly without any chances to put your knife in order” the only reason I have to keep replying is b/c I am answering your ridiculous posts. You seem to enjoy using your free time to unnecessarily criticize me when all I wanted was to ask a question regarding something I figured other ppl had more knowledge of. You seem to be treating me like a criminal. Not to mention justifying your rudeness…

You seem to have an attitude where I must answer to you somehow. Did I ever say anything was “secret”? You have too much of a paranoid mentality to you. I was always open about my problems and what I did after. Again you must read. I never claimed any brand wasn’t for me anymore. In fact I bought Spydeis from a different source after that bad incident. I am happy with my other BM as welll. I do not know where you are getting this from other than the fact that you are really trying to be a troll and putting words in my mouth. And there is a reason why you can refund things – when they don’t work. SO if I do choose to return the knife to the dealer it’s my choice and one that the dealer accepts. Or is that a bad thing b/c it breaks Sergiusz’s Ridiculous Rule of Knife Purchasing #6688877799??

I never stated that knife manufacturers were my enemies. Nowhere did I badmouth Spyderco products. Just b/c I speak up when I have problems and ask questions doesn’t mean I am badmouthing. And I never knew you had to join a manufacturer cult when buying products. Everywhere here I see ppl complaining about BM quality control. Maybe you should go deal with them too with your superpowers…

I asked a problem in this thread about a malfunctioning BM product. Nowhere did I badmouth BM or “fight” them. Again you should really READ. You seem to miss the point of my post. It was to find out if this was a normal way of breaking in the knife or if the problem could easily be fixed.

As for you unnaturally strong fingers comment…no it’s not that. It’s the fact that YOUR knife doesn’t experience that problem but others do. If you fingers tried to pull back the bar on my knife or the knives of others with this problem it would still be stuck Einstein. Again you take your experiences and insolently apply them to all those that do not fit your very limited paradigm. Again, don’t waste your time replying to my post. You’re better off spending it doing a search and READING what others have said. Maybe you can wake up from your sergiusz-centered world view.


blop

do a search on bladeforums and in the BM forum. You'd have to NOT believe many others too. LIke serge up there maybe there is a secret conspiracy of ppl who all want to make up bad things about the AXIS lock performance especially on the 806. Serge must think it's Caracci's secret plan to bring back the liner lock since he disapproved of the AXIS...
 
Nonsense Curious!

You surely make an elephant out of a mouse. Maybe you don´t know if you got a problem with the knife or your expectations on it. Some people told you, your problem will fade away by itself, some told you to send it back. Make a decision.

I simply do not believe, you have spots from oil on G10. I don´t see the line to carachi or whoever, because G10 is AFCK scale since beginnig. But maybe you lifted the secret by yourself. As a german saying: "getretene Hunde bellen".

Better to close this thread.
 
the problem was not the stain but the AXIS sticking

and I do not care about your beliefs. I see a stain with my own eyes. I thought it was from the militec grease. Maybe "stain" is not the correct word for it but what I mean is that it still has yet to come off from the methods I've tried. However many on this board have suggested WD-40 and I shall try that when I can...

I have made a decision. I have decided to wait a bit and see if the lock stops sticking. If it doesn't then obviously I have a problem and will either have to return the knife or send it to BM. How is asking a question regarding a MALFUNCTIONING lock making a mouse out of an elephant as you put it? The REASON I was asking was because I did not know if that was the normal process for the lock or if it was defective. You seem not to understand that if I had known that many consider it a normal process of breaking in the lock I wouldn't have posted now would I?

You and Serge comtinue a thread that has already served it's purpose yet you both keep telling me I should close the thread/make a decision etc

Seems to be ridiculous. Did I say I didn't take the replies into consideration? Did I say I was ignoring them? I asked a question. I got answers. That's it. My only problem was Sergiusz bringing up no-related points that had nothing to do with the thread and his ridiculous specualations and conclusions...
 
curious2003, I haven't got any other Axis lock knife with which to compare my AFCK, but mine seems to be flat up to the point where the lock bar stops against the spine of the blade. To me, at first glance, it looks like there's a concave depression in the metal, but on closer examination it seems that there's just a bit more wear in the copper-coloured material there.

W00t, sounds like it's time to move this stinker (of a thread, lest anyone misread me :rolleyes: ) to Whine and Cheese for a bloody verbal slugfest. :)

...OR perhaps a better solution would be for everyone to just calm down? Nobody wins when the thread becomes a flamewar...
 
I should be receiving my first AXIS knife in about a week. I am interested in the final outcome of your problem.

Obviously, I don't know anything about the AXIS mechinism. However, it might be related to a problem I had with the trigger lock of my model 700 Remington rifle. I found I shouldn't be lubricating it at all. It became gummed up. I washed it repetedly with trichloroethane alternating with blowing it out with pressure air. Then applied a little carborator cleaner for rust protection and blew it out also. I have had no problem sence.

I am a hunter and a little worried about gumming up the AXIS mech with blood. I hear I can't take it apart without voiding the warantee.
 
Will you guys cut curious a bit of slack here please?

So maybe he's been a bit 'excited' on occasion. Or 'excessive'. Or bloody whatever. Maybe, maybe, maybe. He's also made no bones WHATSOEVER that he's rather new to this. So big deal if he asks a lot of questions, has some curious notions, etcetera.

Just for a moment, assume he DOES have a bung AFCK and/or a grease stain on G10. If it were me, I would be just a little testy if someone then hoved in, questioning whether this were in fact the case. As you would be. NOT the time for the lecture. If you really think it's bs, don't bloody answer then.

You can save your powder for later, if need be. Assuming there would be a need at all.
 
The thread being discussed about the chipping Endura where Curious2003 described several problems :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=253267

Knives can behave in this way, getting damaged on newspaper and other very soft items. It happens when the edge is heavily burred, sometimes even burnt - yes even a sheet of paper can damage it. The first time you see it, it is pretty shocking. It can usually be fixed by a decent sharpening, but on serrations this would be a bit of a turn off especially on a decently high end NIB knife.

Even with a perfectly sharpened edge, with *rolls* of such material being cut, you are in fact no longer simply cutting "newspaper" (which brings to mind cutting a sheet of paper), but a much more dense material, which is much more difficult to cut and therefore much harder on a knife. While any quality knife should do it just fine, if the hardness was off a few points the edge could roll, dent or rip during the cutting.

As for "just returning it" because he is in Canada. Being outside the US the postage cost isn't insignificant for such returns, and you can also expect guaranteed additional costs when it is returned back to you. At the least you can expect an inspection fee, and you can even get hit with a full duty on the declared price (often full retail).


-Cliff
 
switched

thank you for understanding. Boy I never knew asking questions in forums would be so stressful :D Seems I have to somehow prove the legitimacy of my problems before certain members allow help at all. And when OTHERS help me they see fit to criticize me for asking. Jeez...

cliff

i'm glad there is someone here with some knowledge of knives! I KNOW for a fact the serration chipped on paper. Might have been a magazine I "sawed" vertically down the pages...

The point is it happened and I do not know why. Even being a newbie at this I suspected that the serration was either cut with the chipped part more fragile and "sticking out" a bit more, or that the heat treat was somehow responsible. VG-10 has had such issues before and Spyderco has had issues with their hardness levels (see Barefoot Simona's thread in the Spyderco site forum).

So for members here to roll their eyes and challenge this is ridiculous. There is no reason for me to exaggerate, make up stories, or lie. I am not here to ruin any company
s reputation. All I did was commit the crime of being honest about what happened.

Just b/c in YOUR limited experience you have never heard of something doesn't mean it can't exist. Last I checked we were all still human on these forums with the exception of superhero Sergiusz.


and yes like Cliff said, it's not simply a matter of just sending the thing in. Canadian customs could slap a full fee on the knife, confiscate it b/c nobody seems to know knife laws correctly, slap it with duties, taxes, etc

If you guys think it's so easy you pay for whatever costs are incurred and I'll be most happy to oblige. Until then, I'd rather go ask those who might be able to help on the forums first...
 
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