Axis locks-What are the chances of it accidently closing?

Little or no chance, both springs would have to break and the lock bar be pushed off all at the same time.
 
If one holds an Axis lock folder (i.e. BM AFCK) in the traditional hammer grip for self defense purposes (this is what the original poster is concerned about) where the thumb rides very close or even on top of the release stud, it is quite possible to have the lock disengaged resulting from extreme dynamic movements thru body contact, hitting unseen/ unforeseen objects on the target including bone, muscle, tendons, ligaments, etc. More so if one holds the folder in the Filipino grip where the forefinger and thumb of the gripping hand is often "floating" in a semi curled/ strait position in relation to the rest of the hand/ fingers making contact. Those who are familiar with this grip will know what I am speaking of. I prefer the liner lock in a folder type. The original BM AFCK liner lock has its liner release area almost flush with respect to its scale. I have a few on mine with that area ground down so that they are actually recessed with their respective scales. This helps to minimze movement of the liner that may be caused by the flesh of the fingers. Without the recess job, the lockup of the AFCK (and most any liner lock) can be compromised if the fleshy part of the finger(s) makes an extreme/ convulsive grip against the liner when an extraction from its target while in an outward twisting motion is performed. Also keep in mind that while the Axis studs are external and exposed, the recessed liner is actually covered by the forefinger almost all the time, with the exception of some movements in the Filipino grip.

And finally, I' ve never seen a folder that has a fail proof locking mechanism- go with a FIXED blade knife for protective purposes. :)

N.

www.dozierknives.com/forum
 
At my company christmas party a retirree at my work who introduced me to quality knives was carrying this

http://www.benchmade.com/products/product_detail.aspx?model=530

BM 530 Pardue design.

I had to ask him if it was an Axis when I saw the button. It is flush with the handle, and that made me wonder if it was a different lock. It doesn't have raised ridges and you almost have to use your fingernail to pull it. I have handled about five BM axis lock models, and they all had raised ridges to grip. I found it interesting to see this model with a flat button.

I have a Spyderco D'allara, and at first I was taken back by the difference in the ball lock versus the axis lock. I have to either pinch the ball between my finger and thumb(a move that takes a little concentration), or I have to press the ball down with my thumb tip and thumbnail. Without the nail, I can't use my thumb alone. This move is now just as natural as grabbing an axis with my fingertip or thumbtip, but it requires a little more physical force. Depending on your point of view, you could view this as a drawback to having a recessed smooth ball, or perhaps you could view this as an advantage. I personlly feel that the ball lock would be next to impossible to accidentle unlocking, however I only have a little bit of experience.

I find it interesting that the 530 axis lock is flush with the handle. Perhaps for reliability.
 
allenC said:
I can't see how anyone could accidentally release the lock regardless of the grip.
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when BM 1st came out w/the axis AFCK cris carraci (who designed the BM AFCK) said in his opinion there was a possiblity that when using an axis lock knife for SD the hand could slip and disengage the lock, & in the heat of battle i can see were it could, perhaps, maybe happen lol.

he's the one who 1st said grind the buttons down, and if this worries ya thats what i'd do.
 
Rich357 said:
If a folder with an AXIS type lock was thrust hard into something and the knife sunk in past the AXIS lock, there might be enough pressure on the lock buttons to move them back a little. Maybe. But, I've not tried it.
Click to expand...
And that is, how i imagine SD situations, well the end of it. :D
 
I have put a few of my axis knives to hard use at work and at play, and I have not had a lock slip on my yet.
As for SD, go fixed.
 
On the two 610's I have I have removed the axis bar on one of them and ground it flush with the opening, actually about halway between the liner and the micarta. It is still very accessible to operate, yet it will be awfully hard to accidentally disengage it. I does give it a more streamlined look!:)
 
SIFU1A said:
when BM 1st came out w/the axis AFCK cris carraci (who designed the BM AFCK) said in his opinion there was a possiblity that when using an axis lock knife for SD the hand could slip and disengage the lock, & in the heat of battle i can see were it could, perhaps, maybe happen lol.

he's the one who 1st said grind the buttons down, and if this worries ya thats what i'd do.
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Carraci said that believing that the direction of release was the opposite. He was wrong, and, IIRC he later corrected himself.

There are many factors which must bother you in addition, for example, if opponents blade hits your fingers - cut is cut, isn't that? I believe, it were much more probable then an accidental lock release.

Franco
 
Franco G said:
Carraci said that believing that the direction of release was the opposite. He was wrong, and, IIRC he later corrected himself.

There are many factors which must bother you in addition, for example, if opponents blade hits your fingers - cut is cut, isn't that? I believe, it were much more probable then an accidental lock release.

Franco
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really, exactly were did he post that?? i certainly never ever saw him say that.

what does direction of release have to do w/it anyway? are you saying he thought ya pushed it forward to disengage?? that doesnt make any sense lol.

i can see were if ya were twisting fighting bloody slipppery slashing and stabbing you could possibly accidently disengage it.

if your opponenets blade slashes your fingers why does it matter what kinda lock folder ya have ie if your fingers cut its cut same on axis lock, frame lock, liner lock, etc ya lost me on that one.
 
Hello all, 90%+ of people are right handed. The most common knife attack angle is the Angle one that travels from right to low left. If you are right handed and doing this attack as you drag through your target your thumb is on the AXIS lock it is dragging the same direction of the cut and can disengage. It was very easy for us to replicate this in a training enviromment. YMMV

I have no real concerns for it as a utility folder, however it is just not my thing.
 
Rich357 said:
If a folder with an AXIS type lock was thrust hard into something and the knife sunk in past the AXIS lock, there might be enough pressure on the lock buttons to move them back a little. Maybe. But, I've not tried it.
Click to expand...

But by the point where the lock bar was actuated by the flesh into which the knife had sunk, it'd probably be pretty hard for the knife to fold closed...right? I mean, if you've sunk the knife in lock-bar-deep, the blade is quite, ah, deep in the flesh, yes? So I guess the answer is "probably not."
 
I think any statement saying that ANY lock has a 0% of failure is naive. ALL locks can fail. Fixed blades can fail.
 
mercop said:
Hello all, 90%+ of people are right handed. The most common knife attack angle is the Angle one that travels from right to low left. If you are right handed and doing this attack as you drag through your target your thumb is on the AXIS lock it is dragging the same direction of the cut and can disengage. It was very easy for us to replicate this in a training enviromment. YMMV

I have no real concerns for it as a utility folder, however it is just not my thing.
Click to expand...

I use saber grip mostly(slighly modified) so my thumb is nowhere near the lock.
I'll agree that if your using what I call the "dagger grip" with the thumb on the side of the handle, it could be an issue.
If that's your prefered hold, then don't go AXIS, or grind the studs WAY down.
For reverse grip I find no issues with disengagement either.
 
Hello Everybody,
I've had an Axis lock disengage on two separate occasions and break on a third.

1. 806 AFCK- disengaged when dropped on a linoleum floor.

2. Same AFCK disengaged when spine whacked on empty miller lite beer bottle. It cut a very shallow wound to the base of my thumb.

3. Snody 420 Resistor- omega spring just up and broke. I have yet to send it to BM.

So, in my experience the axis lock is not perfect. I think it has problems rebounding against ceramic type (???) objects, in my case linoleum and a hard beer glass. I also think the omega springs are prone to breakage; the 420 had been exposed to the salty beach air of central coastal Florida but never had it been dipped or exposed to salt water. The spring just snapped???

I still like the axis lock, but I find I like the coil spring of the D'Allara Ball Lock better.

Have a Safe Weekend,
bob7
 
The Axis is a frontrunner , dont worry too much . Lock performance is pretty anecdotal , not a lot of hard statistical data . The only genre well known for shifting is liners , lockbacks can screw up due to crud , had a Spydie manix do it to me , makes a pretty scary friction folder .

I like deep choils a lot on folders as a fail safe ( Striders , Spydercos etc ) .

Its a bit like smacking the front of a Colt/Browning type auto pistol , and putting it out of battery . It can happen , it has happened , is it a major problem , probably not .

The type I have the deepest distrust for is liners . No lock is perfect , but the Axis is among the best .

Chris
 
peacefuljeffrey said:
But by the point where the lock bar was actuated by the flesh into which the knife had sunk, it'd probably be pretty hard for the knife to fold closed...right? I mean, if you've sunk the knife in lock-bar-deep, the blade is quite, ah, deep in the flesh, yes? So I guess the answer is "probably not."
Click to expand...

Yep. Good point.
 
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