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- Thread starter oge14
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2005
- Messages
- 2,984
If you are right handed the ASM edge works well because holding it in your hand the convex edge is on the right hand side and the straight edge on the left. Therefore when whittling wood or cutting generally means that the rolling of the edge goes back towards the straight edge ( i.e. the left side of the blade ) if cutting the wood at 45 degrees using your right hand.
Therefore for field sharpening .... if you had a fully convex blade you would need a fair bit of paddle stropping to re-align the edge centrally .... with the ASM edge it is a few strokes with a ceramic hone. Very quick to do .... shapening is also a simple matter of a few strokes on the left side with the ceramic rods on a Sharpmaker and only one maybe two passes on the right side on a leather paddle. The edge is VERY robust though .... a lot less prone to rolling than convex or V grinds and therefore the "real time" sharpened use of the blade is very long .... you get to truly wear down the edge.... rather than as I often find ..... simply "rolling" the edge.
If you do as Will York suggests and just slightly take the convex side of the edge higher you have a fair old improvement in the cutting edge profile .... it bites deeper and again is not really prone to rolling.
Never touch the flat sharpened side though in terms of trying to improve things ..... that angle on the flat side is where the "magic lies" .... it is easily lost if you alter that angle .... leave it well alone and the knife performs like a dream.
Therefore for field sharpening .... if you had a fully convex blade you would need a fair bit of paddle stropping to re-align the edge centrally .... with the ASM edge it is a few strokes with a ceramic hone. Very quick to do .... shapening is also a simple matter of a few strokes on the left side with the ceramic rods on a Sharpmaker and only one maybe two passes on the right side on a leather paddle. The edge is VERY robust though .... a lot less prone to rolling than convex or V grinds and therefore the "real time" sharpened use of the blade is very long .... you get to truly wear down the edge.... rather than as I often find ..... simply "rolling" the edge.
If you do as Will York suggests and just slightly take the convex side of the edge higher you have a fair old improvement in the cutting edge profile .... it bites deeper and again is not really prone to rolling.
Never touch the flat sharpened side though in terms of trying to improve things ..... that angle on the flat side is where the "magic lies" .... it is easily lost if you alter that angle .... leave it well alone and the knife performs like a dream.