Baby SARsquatch Drawing. . . .

foxyrick said:
If they're only going to be available at a show, I really need someone to pick me a pair up!

These are on my 'must have' list, I think they've just bumped the CG SFNO down to third place!
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idahoskunk said:
WHAT! you only live in england, you can drive just like the rest of us.



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No he can't, he drives on the wrong side of the road, that will cause problems here!!! :eek:

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randucci said:
No he can't, he drives on the wrong side of the road, that will cause problems here!!! :eek:

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I usually sort of aim for the middle... :confused: I did some flying once and just kind of got used to the white line...
 
idahoskunk said:
oh! so NOW you decide to go to the show, you wouldn't go to it just to drink with us hogladites but now that jerry designed a WHOLE NEW KNIFE for you, you decide to go..... :rolleyes:

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Hey now! I already decided to go when I first heard that you (not just the knives) were going to be there. Besides if you look in this post http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=536107&page=3
you will see I already said I was coming.
The reason I was wondering if the new knives was going to be there was to make sure I had enough cash scrapped together to buy them. I would really kick myself if I missed out on these.
It's just that it is had to come by extra money with two step daughters and a kid of my own plus a wife with the same taste in guns and knives that I have. (Not that I'm complaining about the wife. She is the best!) Not to mention the other ongoing costs of being a SAR volunteer.
 
KellyGlanzer said:
NOOOOOO:eek::eek: Make it bigger and usable.
SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!SAVE the choil!
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I disagree and here is one good reason that I consider somewhat indisputable.

For those who want a choil it is very easy to add a functional finger choil if you really intend to use it. For about $20, you can pick up a nice multi-sized drum sanding kit that makes great usable sized choils. - takes about 30 minutes to grind a nice usable choil if going VERY slow to not heat up the blade edge to avoid damaging temper.

But, for those of use who don't like a wasted blade edge and would rather not have a over-sized choil that is not functional, we can't remove the choil. All you can do is make it larger.

The current (and many other) over-sized non-functioning choils are too small to use and too large to a point they waste a VERY functional, valuable and important area of the blades edge for MANY types of cutting tasks. That area near the grip is great for controlled cutting in close to the handle and large choils cause too problems:

- They push the cutting edge further out / while reducing functional and usable blade edge

- And they cause many materials to hang up / snag in cutting.

So, I guess I am a "Choil Hater". But, at least I try to provide GOOD reasons.

I do appreciate some people wanting a "Functional" finger choil and I believe there is plenty of justification for knives starting at about 5" and up for knives more suited for needing to choke up.
BUT, I don't like them on smaller knives like the AD and other sub-4" bladed knives.

And if there is one, even on larger knives, I like the Choils in as close to the normal grip as possible - so that when using the normal grip the blades edge isn't too far away from the grip.

There is no benefit to anyone in having a choil that is too small for fingers or for functional use while also reducing the functional usable blade edge and pushing the edge too far away from the handle. I personally don't need even a sharpening choil. I have MANY knives that I have used over the years and sharpened just fine without any choil - works fine. But, if there is a sharpening choil, 0.0625" (1/16") - 0.1" is WAY PLENTY.

The drawing for the full sized SARsquatch looks to have a much better functional choil than many knives from the past. It appears to be about .25" closer or so - partly with the choil in tighter and partly with a tighter radius at the index finger. - Both good improvements - the Tighter the better. :thumbup: - even a tad tighter than on the drawing would still be even better IMO. And 0.875" choils are plenty large. 1.0" is too big. For people with gloves, 1.0" is probably better, but again, it is easy to enlarge a choil, but impossible to reduce the size of a choil.


..... Now about more of a spear-point. ;)

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I like them both. Really good design from tip to tail, with enough aesthetic departure from the rest of the pack to really make give them their own unique lineage. They look very practical for field use. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
BW, you're really starting to grow on me, i would be more than happy to go along and help you shoot your fish
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Jeeze Skunk, that means alot coming from you:D

Does that mean I get to shoot your fish as well? ;)
 
I'd lose the ramp, bring in the blade to the ricasso, lose the talon hole; and round off the squared pommel for when you have your hand all the way back and are working the heck out of the blade...these are users right? Baby SARSquatch and MiniMuk one each please!
 
1Tracker said:
I'd lose the ramp, bring in the blade to the ricasso, lose the talon hole; and round off the squared pommel for when you have your hand all the way back and are working the heck out of the blade...these are users right? Baby SARSquatch and MiniMuk one each please!
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I agree with this in regards to the pommel. The DCH as shown for the Hog Muk would be the perfect fit for the smaller knife.
 
DWRW said:
I disagree and here is one good reason that I consider somewhat indisputable.

For those who want a choil it is very easy to add a functional finger choil if you really intend to use it. For about $20, you can pick up a nice multi-sized drum sanding kit that makes great usable sized choils. - takes about 30 minutes to grind a nice usable choil if going VERY slow to not heat up the blade edge to avoid damaging temper.

But, for those of use who don't like a wasted blade edge and would rather not have a over-sized choil that is not functional, we can't remove the choil. All you can do is make it larger.

The current (and many other) over-sized non-functioning choils are too small to use and too large to a point they waste a VERY functional, valuable and important area of the blades edge for MANY types of cutting tasks. That area near the grip is great for controlled cutting in close to the handle and large choils cause too problems:

- They push the cutting edge further out / while reducing functional and usable blade edge

- And they cause many materials to hang up / snag in cutting.

So, I guess I am a "Choil Hater". But, at least I try to provide GOOD reasons.

I do appreciate some people wanting a "Functional" finger choil and I believe there is plenty of justification for knives starting at about 5" and up for knives more suited for needing to choke up.
BUT, I don't like them on smaller knives like the AD and other sub-4" bladed knives.

And if there is one, even on larger knives, I like the Choils in as close to the normal grip as possible - so that when using the normal grip the blades edge isn't too far away from the grip.

There is no benefit to anyone in having a choil that is too small for fingers or for functional use while also reducing the functional usable blade edge and pushing the edge too far away from the handle. I personally don't need even a sharpening choil. I have MANY knives that I have used over the years and sharpened just fine without any choil - works fine. But, if there is a sharpening choil, 0.0625" (1/16") - 0.1" is WAY PLENTY.

The drawing for the full sized SARsquatch looks to have a much better functional choil than many knives from the past. It appears to be about .25" closer or so - partly with the choil in tighter and partly with a tighter radius at the index finger. - Both good improvements - the Tighter the better. :thumbup: - even a tad tighter than on the drawing would still be even better IMO. And 0.875" choils are plenty large. 1.0" is too big. For people with gloves, 1.0" is probably better, but again, it is easy to enlarge a choil, but impossible to reduce the size of a choil.


..... Now about more of a spear-point. ;)

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Gotta hand it to you DWRW you knows your choils inside and further out!:thumbup: Exactly the way I see them in knife design, either too small or too big, or plain in the way of more blade being available at the risk of snagging something you did not intend to cut.....and this IS a SAR knife;)
 
This BABY SARSquatch is right in between a RC4 and RC6, a good place to be if you ask me. What purpose on this knife would the talon hole serve other than looks? Maybe round back the ricasso there minus the hole.
 
1Tracker said:
Gotta hand it to you DWRW you knows your choils inside and further out!:thumbup: Exactly the way I see them in knife design, either too small or too big, or plain in the way of more blade being available at the risk of snagging something you did not intend to cut.....and this IS a SAR knife;)
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Thanks 1Tracker. :thumbup: I try. :o

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The way i see it a 'talon hole' is used for repetitive cutting of the same type item over and over; that's a real rare task during a SAR IME. Nothing to snag a glove on is my reason for disliking choils that are not fully usefully. eliminating the 'talon hole' allows that area to be brough down and back in a nice curve to act as a foward finger stop, to prevent 'hand creep' onto the blade when working wet or moving conditions too. Just glad that INFI will have it's place in the working world.
 
If this is the Baby SARsquatch, what does the SAR4 look like? I'm hoping its a smaller version of the ASH1 handle with a 4" blade in this shape and about 1.20" blade depth.

What do the rest of you hogs think?

BabySARsquatch2.jpg
 
Pretty sure that's the drawing that is SUPPOSED to be the SAR4.

It's pretty danged close to a new BA3. Not in production. Probably won't be. :(
 
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