Backyard heat treat of Hitachi shirogami and aogami (white and blue) steels

Thermal cycling, strictly speaking, has nothing to do with the hardness levels.....it is to reduce aus grain size. However, reducing aus grain size reduces hardenability. This means, at the end, you need a faster quench to get that max hardness. In other words, take Shiro and quench as received, in P50, you'll get, what? 66HRC+. Take Shiro and thermal cycle it a few times, lets be excessive here and thermal cycle 5 times, you will reduce the hardenability of the steel to such an extent that P50 will no longer give max as quenched hardness. So in that sense, yes, thermal cycling does reduce the as quenched hardness...but it is because the "standard" (I hate to use that term here) quench is now too slow to get the job done. To get that back, you need to to quench in water/brine, or....."start over" and normalize it.

I'm not sure about that last statement. What do mean by that? You always want to shoot for max as quenched hardness and then temper for desired HRC. TME should not be an issue with these steels, as there is no reason to temper them that high. These steels are made for high hardness, thin edges. If you are tempering Shiro and Ao in TME range, then you're lowering hardness levels to such an extent you should be using a different steel to begin with. I'll let others chime in....got work to get done.

Reducing grain size not only decreases the hardness depth, but even if fully hardened, it reduces the maximum hardness while increasing toughness. This is different than saying that it hasn't completely transformed to marstenite, just that the marstenite is in a form that is tougher but less hard.

I completely understand what you're saying about using a quenchant that is on the line, and then it no longer being effective. Which makes me wonder why there is so little discussion of Park's water based quenchants.
 
Decreasing hardenability isn't about decreasing the final hardness, but decreasing the ability to harden the steel, or the depth to which it will harden (the same thing, but different ways to conceptualizer it). To overcome low hardenability, one must increase quench speed. It is possible to push the nose so far to the left that the steel will never harden.
 
Decreasing hardenability isn't about decreasing the final hardness, but decreasing the ability to harden the steel, or the depth to which it will harden (the same thing, but different ways to conceptualizer it). To overcome low hardenability, one must increase quench speed. It is possible to push the nose so far to the left that the steel will never harden.

Correct. "Hardenability" refers to what depth or percentage the steel will complete a marstenite transition to. Final hardness can be a product of this or other factors that aren't hardenability.
 
Hi all, OP here, thanks for the discussion! I actually enjoy reading this kind of stuff since i really like to understand why I'm doing something rather than just following instructions blindly.

Good to know it comes fine spheroidized, less stuff for me to mess up with my backyard shade tree approach!


I would heat to non-magnetic and then barely a shade redder (about 1475F). As soon as the blade edge is evenly at that shade, quench in 8% brine for a three count, pull out and quench in a fast oil ( canola will work) for a five count, and then pull out and hang in still air until able to hand hold.. Temper at 400-450F for an hour twice.

To be clear, 8% brine means 80 grams of non-iodized table salt dissolved per liter of water? I'm guessing the brine helps with the vapor jacket problem?
 
Reducing grain size not only decreases the hardness depth, but even if fully hardened, it reduces the maximum hardness while increasing toughness. This is different than saying that it hasn't completely transformed to marstenite, just that the marstenite is in a form that is tougher but less hard.

I completely understand what you're saying about using a quenchant that is on the line, and then it no longer being effective. Which makes me wonder why there is so little discussion of Park's water based quenchants.

Reducing grain size reduces the hardenability. Hardenability as a term refers to both the kids of maximum hardness and reduction in depth of hardness. Both these things occur due to formation of passes besides martensite, typically pearlite in steels like the ones in this thread. The martensite isn't in a less hard form, is not martensite at all.
 
Reducing grain size reduces the hardenability. Hardenability as a term refers to both the kids of maximum hardness and reduction in depth of hardness. Both these things occur due to formation of passes besides martensite, typically pearlite in steels like the ones in this thread. The martensite isn't in a less hard form, is not martensite at all.

So if you refine the grain to a very small size in a steel that hardens easily (like O1), then keep ahead of the reduced hardenability by using a faster quench, you should never get any sort of drop in as-quenched hardness?
 
Nope. The reason for the reduced hardness in steels like O1 is the formation of pearlite. It will form very easily of given the chance, and all those tiny grains with their boundaries are great places to start. Once it firms is stable and no amount of cryo or anything else will change it short of rehardening. However this might make the grains even smaller making the problem worse.
 
Hi all, OP here, thanks for the discussion! I actually enjoy reading this kind of stuff since i really like to understand why I'm doing something rather than just following instructions blindly.

Good to know it comes fine spheroidized, less stuff for me to mess up with my backyard shade tree approach!




To be clear, 8% brine means 80 grams of non-iodized table salt dissolved per liter of water? I'm guessing the brine helps with the vapor jacket problem?

Yes, that would be correct.

One pound of salt to two gallons of water is an approximate mix used by many for a brine quenchant. That actually makes a 6% solution, so most folks toss in an extra small handful of salt (2-3 extra ounces) to bring it up a few percent. My standard mix is now 3 pounds salt to five gallons water, which is 7%. If you want an exact 8% mix, use 21 ounces salt and two gallon of water (or go metric with 80 grams salt per liter of water). The concentration range used by most people is from 7% to 10%.
 
Hi all, OP here, thanks for the discussion! I actually enjoy reading this kind of stuff since i really like to understand why I'm doing something rather than just following instructions blindly.

Good to know it comes fine spheroidized, less stuff for me to mess up with my backyard shade tree approach!




To be clear, 8% brine means 80 grams of non-iodized table salt dissolved per liter of water? I'm guessing the brine helps with the vapor jacket problem?

I'm on vacation so hard for me to read all this interesting stuff. But I've made about 60 of these blades this past year, all cold forged, all quenched in water and with a clay slip and all flash tempered. And that's what I would suggest.

If u like I can do yours for a very reasonable charge. Or reference my ht thread in the stickies. I think there might be a video there as well.

And I would advise you not grind any bevel in at all, only the outside profile.

And I've never cracked a blade. :-)

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I'm on vacation so hard for me to read all this interesting stuff. But I've made about 60 of these blades this past year, all cold forged, all quenched in water and with a clay slip and all flash tempered. And that's what I would suggest.

If u like I can do yours for a very reasonable charge. Or reference my ht thread in the stickies. I think there might be a video there as well.

And I would advise you not grind any bevel in at all, only the outside profile.

And I've never cracked a blade. :-)

Wow... now you got me intrigued! Is it possible to cold forge this steel with muscle power alone? And if so, is there a suitable anvil and hammer I could find at Home Depot or Lowe's or online that would be under $100-150 all in?

If cold forged, could normalization be skipped?
 
Wow... now you got me intrigued! Is it possible to cold forge this steel with muscle power alone? And if so, is there a suitable anvil and hammer I could find at Home Depot or Lowe's or online that would be under $100-150 all in?

If cold forged, could normalization be skipped?

I don't have a power hammer so I use my muscle power.

As said earlier you don't need any normalization cycles for this steel. Cold forging is independent of any heat treatment(s)



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I will state my metallurgical and practical experience - DO NOT cold forge Hitachi white or blue steel and expect to get good results. I would not recommend anyone cold forge any steel.

Cold forging causes disruptions along the grain boundaries ... which is a bad thing.

Forget the hammers and anvil, and buy some files and a stack of sandpaper. Stock reduction is always done cold.
 
Not getting into a discussion of pros or cons of cold forging..... but in this case given your experience I would tend to agree with Stacy's advice which is for you to keep it simple.

I learned these bladesmithing techniques over nine days making seven blades with someone who has made more than 20,000 blades.

You appear to be more or less on your own with just some advice. The likelihood for you is things won't go perfectly and you might have some failure.

Harbeer

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