Bad Axe mods

T

theAntihero

Joined
Nov 11, 2011
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So i picked up a Cold Steel Bad Axe and i really like the way it throws but there is a problem. I only got about 10 throws before breaking the handle. I glued and gorilla taped it back together for now and i know i can buy new handles but id like to fix this problem for good if i can. Anyone ever tried replacing the wood with something composite?
 
if you want to keep the same throwing characteristics you just have to buy more handles. Some will last a long time others won't (the average should be more than 10, you just had some bad luck). Poly handles tend to flex too much when throwing, Fiberglass is nice but will change the center of gravity as will aluminum. IMHO the wooden handles need to be considered a consumable on just about all throwers.
 
How were you throwing, and at what, when you broke it? We can throw to hit the target, or we can throw as hard as possible, a very hard throw can break something way faster. Also, a round taken from a stump is a much more forgiving target than a big dead tree. The round, placed with the end grain as the target, will allow the hawk/axe to bite in better, and absorb more of the shock. But, a standing tree is hard on hawks, they don't offer much forgiveness.
Not all wood is created equal, you may not want to throw the best looking piece of wood, yet, you want the correct grain tightness and alignment, in most cases. The best thing to do here is
a) throw at the best target, throw enough to get it to stick, don't try to kill it, you'll only kill your axe handles. Make each throw one that is focused, and at the correct paces away from the target.
b) get several more wooden handles, go to the local hardware store and hand select your handles, make them fit, or order more through CS.
 
foxx said:
How were you throwing, and at what, when you broke it? We can throw to hit the target, or we can throw as hard as possible, a very hard throw can break something way faster. Also, a round taken from a stump is a much more forgiving target than a big dead tree. The round, placed with the end grain as the target, will allow the hawk/axe to bite in better, and absorb more of the shock. But, a standing tree is hard on hawks, they don't offer much forgiveness.
Not all wood is created equal, you may not want to throw the best looking piece of wood, yet, you want the correct grain tightness and alignment, in most cases. The best thing to do here is
a) throw at the best target, throw enough to get it to stick, don't try to kill it, you'll only kill your axe handles. Make each throw one that is focused, and at the correct paces away from the target.
b) get several more wooden handles, go to the local hardware store and hand select your handles, make them fit, or order more through CS.
Click to expand...

I was throwing at a round of wood, i picked a softer pine that was a little past its prime so it would be easier to stick. I also threw fairly softly and just counted off paces until i could get it to stick. I was pleasantly suprised that i was able to find a good distance on my 2nd throw and stuck it every time except the last, which was a slight glancing blow sadly, that broke my handle. The handle was a bit straight grained though and broke with the grain.

I guess ill just buy a couple of replacements thru cold steel then.
 
I cut down a pick handle that I broke. Worked great.

I threw with the original handle for about 5 years before it broke. It only broke because I let a guy throw it who was sure that it would stick if he only threw it harder and harder.

I swear, no matter where I had him stand.....he managed to get straight on handle hits like 40 times in a row!
 
Bigfattyt said:
I cut down a pick handle that I broke. Worked great.

I threw with the original handle for about 5 years before it broke. It only broke because I let a guy throw it who was sure that it would stick if he only threw it harder and harder.

I swear, no matter where I had him stand.....he managed to get straight on handle hits like 40 times in a row!
Click to expand...

Actually a pick handle, or maybe a sledge hammer handle was what i was thinking of actually.

This is my first tomahawk/throwing axe but ive had throwing knives for years, when i learned to throw lighter and the same every single time i got quite a bit better, theres no need to heave it with all your might.
 
Well, throwing induces a lot of stress on any handle, so if you would like to continue throwing, IMO the best thing to do is fashion a handle out of a cut branch or piece of scrap wood
Also remember to remove the set screw, it completely defeats the purpose of the tomahawk
 
TheAznInvazn said:
Well, throwing induces a lot of stress on any handle, so if you would like to continue throwing, IMO the best thing to do is fashion a handle out of a cut branch or piece of scrap wood
Also remember to remove the set screw, it completely defeats the purpose of the tomahawk
Click to expand...

The Bad Axe isn't a tomahawk. It's a stamped sheet steel double bit with a handle attached similar to that of a shovel.
 
Handles on professional competition knives are leather pieces with copper rivets.

Handles to all thrown items will, at some time or other, fly off. It is the impact at odd angles and the forces that happen at impact that do it. Simple fact.

Of all the handles that I have used on throwing knives ...3 don't come off and 2 have never come off.

1- Proper cord wrap. Get it wet, pull it tight, and tie it off right with a loop tucked into the last few wraps. The only thing...if you hit the butt on a really hard surface repeatedly, the cord will mash and cut.

2- The afore mentioned leather. They do age and then will come off. Nice thing about these is there are no flying projectiles you have to worry about.

3- Epoxied stingray/ cord wrap handles. These things are like steel and are waterproof when properly executed. They also look great and are nice wet grip handles.

Use a good flat surface to throw at as the angles will ruin your blades by putting stresses you should not be putting on them. Make it a straight, perpendicular surface/throw.

I use a bunch of 2x4" s glued and clamped together on edge (long side to long side) with construction adhesive for outside stuff and then hang it on two posts in the ground. It gives me plenty to stick into and is cheap but very solid and flat. I toss hawks knives or anything else that I find at this and it holds up well. Also it 'swings' a little and that makes it hit the ground before bounding back and hitting me!
 
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