Bader Forktip/Hardcore Wheel users...

Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
470
Guys,
I was wondering if any of you are using the Hardcore small wheel setup with your Bader Forktip?
Since I will be keeping my forktip, (I had planned on selling it), I was wanting to get the smallest possible wheels for it.
I have heard the small wheel attachment from Hardcore, has MUCH better bearings than the Bader wheels, which can fail on you if run too high.
However, I was wondering if you just buy the Hardcore wheels, or if you have to buy an "attachment" which only works with Hardcore's wheels?
I see they have the "small wheel attachment" for like $160 at TruGrit, and was wondering if I should buy this, OR if I will be buying some type of "forktip" that I will be unable to use with my Bader?
Do the Hardcore wheels work with the actual Bader forktip?
Thanks,
 
I have the fork tip you are writing about. I have various wheel sizes from 3/16" to 3". The smaller rubber wheels want to wander from side to side with presure during grinding. Crank down on the tension and it works great. The larger sealed ball bearing is very smooth running. I just never run it fast, always slow to medium speed. But the bearing heating up is not an issue. Just make sure you order the fork that fits the Bader machine. The Bader tip and wheels, can not be interchanged with the other brand.

Jeff
 
Thanks bud. Looks like I've got to drop more $$ than I thought. That pretty much makes the Bader forktip useless.
I want to run the wheels without fear of them failing, and EVERYONE I know, who has used the Bader wheels, says the rubber will overheat and tear up on the smaller wheels, and some have said the bearings will overheat.
These guys who experienced the above problems, have been TOTALLY satisfied with the Hardcore wheel attachment made for the Bader, with ZERO problems of overheating the rubber or the bearings.
Thanks for your help..
 
I believe the wheels for the Hardcore and the KMG are interchangeable if that makes any difference.

I just started using the small wheel attachment for my Hardcore a few weeks ago and after using those drum things for years It was like when I went from single speed to variable speed. Why I didn't do it sooner is beyond me, and its not that an expensive setup.

Craig
 
Hey fellas,
Well, I finally got my new Hardcore small wheel attachment for my Bader grinder.

I like the setup, except for ONE major issue here.

When using the smaller 5/16" and 3/8" and 1/2" wheels, and EVEN the 3/4" wheel, (I would bet), you are VERY prone to belt damage. (damaging the EDGE of the belt)
Basically, I take as much time and precaution, to set the tracking up. (I put the belt on, and manually turn the drive wheel by hand) Still, if my tracking is not DEAD UP PERFECT, the belt will track off to the side, and destroy the edge of the belt, as it comes in contact with the inside jaws of the hardcore forktips.
Having variable speed, really helps, as I turn the grinder on, at slowest speed, which gives me more time to get the tracking perfect, but STILL I am damaging belts. The thin, J wt. Klingspor belts which I like to run on tiny wheels, are damaged the easiest.
Not a good thing.

Have you guys noticed this?

I'm STILL trying to find the ultimate setup for small, tiny wheels, such as 5/16" or so.
The Bader wheels aren't made that small, and the Hardcore and KMG small wheels both have the problem as above.
The KMG and JL horizontal grinders don't have wheels below 1/2" either.

I do not want to go back to the "dremel" for tiny wheels like this.
I also don't own a mill or lathe right now, or I would design a system, which uses tiny wheels, which WILL NOT damage the edge of your abrasive belt, EVEN IF your tracking is slightly "off".
My Bader tracks pretty good, but not good enough to keep from damaging some belts on small wheels.

Are there any of you, who have also experienced this???
 
I have had the same problem. Check to make sure the bolt on the top pivot arm is snug. No left to right movement. In stall your belt and then tighten the tension arm down like your normally do when using your larger contact wheels.. Then tighten the tension arm down even more so your tension arm has very little movement upward from fully compressed. That is how tight I run my belt on my arm on the Bader with that fork tip. If you see the belt moving stop and tighten the arm again. Once you find the right tension, you will be set. The belt moves because your presure on the small rubber contact wheel is changing its shape. I only run the fork tip at medium speed at most. But I run it as long as I want. Let me know if this helps.
Jeff
 
Thanks for the tips bud.

I have no problem getting the belt to track once it is set. I don't even have to use extreme tension, as you say.
I am just having the issue when I FIRST put the forktip IN the grinder, BEFORE I even have time to get the tracking adjusted to the new attachment being put in the grinder.
Within a few seconds, I've got a belt w/ a torn edge that is tracking properly, only AFTER tearing the edge when the grinder is first turned on.

I can actually keep this from happening, if I'm LIGHTNING fast, with a little bit of luck. However, 5 times out of 10, I am rushing to get the tracking adjusted, and turn the stupid tracking knob the wrong way, trying to keep the belt from getting chewed up on the edge.

I hope that wasn't too confusing! LOL!

Bottom line,
The grinder tracks FINE, once you get it set, but up until that point, the belt is at risk....
 
OK, set the machine up with an old belt first. Then replace the belt with a new one and palm the belt on the top pulley a few times to check the center in the fork. Move the belt by hand in the grinding direction and make any small adjustments now.
Start the machine in the stalled speed or very very slow speed and slowly increase the speed to your working speed and make any small additional centering adjustments with the tracking knob. I made tracking errors at first as well. The gouges on the fork proves that. But now it only walks when don't have enough tension.

Jeff
 
This is the Small wheel attachment for the Bader that uses the Hardcore and BeaumontMetalWorks wheels. They are in stock. The wheels are interchangeable.

BIII-SWF.jpg


swr.jpg


So you can use Hardcore wheels on your KMG..or BMW wheels on your Hardcore. ....and both in this Bader attachment...and on the BMW horizontal grinder.

Yes, tracking is a bit nerve racking at startup. Especially as the wheels get smaller. The KMGs are much better behaved than the Baders in this area...but it can still exciting. The Fork is designed to protect the bearings from the belt.

Regardless of the wheel or grinder...you still need to slow them down. For example, on the KMG, a 1/2" wheel will turn 8X for every rev on the drive shaft...so if you run the machine at 3500 ft/min, the 1/2" wheel is turning 3500X8 = 28,000 rpm. This gets fast for standard sealed bearings lubed with grease...and the grease will generate a lot of heat which is transferred into the steel shaft...then into the rubber...and will lead to a rubber failure. So keep an eye on the wheel temperature. Its OK for them to run warm. If they get too hot to touch...you need to slow down.

With this in mind, a 1/4" wheel would be turning 56,000 rpm in the same situation, and 1/8" would be 112,000 rpm!!!.:eek:
 
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