Bah On Filework!

Looney36 said:
I also find filework very hard to get symmetrical. I found that using my foredom with carbide burrs and sanding drums helps a lot. Thats why I try to put filework on every blade I make. Here is one I am currently working on, only with the foredom
http://imgur.com/gallery/FhzpB6R
Click to expand...

I also have a foredom, great little tool...but there is just something so satisfying about doing filework by hand. :) Relaxing, and challenging. :)
 
I used to draw a lot, maybe that's why I feel more comfortable with a pen-like tool (I use the small pen attachement):) looking foward to get a micromotor to be able to get even more precision (looking at you Santa). Do files that small exists? Like 1/2 mm and smaller? I can't find smaller than like 2mm :eek: diamond would be even better
 
Looney36 said:
I used to draw a lot, maybe that's why I feel more comfortable with a pen-like tool (I use the small pen attachement):) looking foward to get a micromotor to be able to get even more precision (looking at you Santa). Do files that small exists? Like 1/2 mm and smaller? I can't find smaller than like 2mm :eek: diamond would be even better
Click to expand...
Look here, www.riogrande.com
 
Here is a tip on how to get your filework evenly spaced:
Sand the spine flat to 220 grit.
Use an extra-fine tip sharpie to draw lines where the major cuts will be made by the files. You can wipe any line off and redraw it until you like the spacing pattern. It should look like a ladder down the spine.
Using a jewelers saw, lightly saw a shallow line over each mark.
Wipe off the sharpie marks and use the saw cuts as guides … they won't rub off as you work.
When done with your major filework, a light sanding will remove the marks and be ready for any final file accents.

TIP:
Reduce the spacing and size of the filework as you progress toward the tip. This accentuated distal taper and looks very professional.
 
Last edited:
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Here is a tip on how to get your filework evenly spaced:
Sand the spine flat to 220 grit.
Use an extra-fine tip sharpie to draw lines where the major cuts will be made by the files. You can wipe any line off and redraw it until you like the spacing pattern. It should look like a ladder down the spine.
Using a jewelers saw, lightly saw a shallow line over each mark.
Wipe off the sharpie marks and use the saw cuts as guides … they won't rub off as you work.
When done with your major filework, a light sanding will remove the marks and be ready for any final file accents.

TIP:
Reduce the spacing and size of the filework as you progress toward the tip. This accentuated distal taper and looks very professional.
Click to expand...

:D Excellent advice. :) That is what i do.
 
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