Band saw size

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Feb 19, 2017
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Purchasing Metal Cutting Band Saw.
1. Looking at sizes 4 to6 inch
2. Vs.a 14 inch
Just sold my walnut trees, so money isn't the component.
3. I want to do professional work.
4. Will be multi task, but predominantly, profiling, stock removal and handle shaping
WILL THE 14 INCH be the one of choice????
 
I used to have a vertical horizontal 7x12 and loved it. Had to sell it when I downsized shops. I used it for profiling and making end cuts. Spent most of the time in the vertical position.

Downside is the 7x12 is a very large machine and weighed over 300lbs, taking up alot of space. A 4x6 is probably more than capable for knife thickness stock but if you are doing bigger stock and space isn't an issue, the more powerful 7x12 is the way to go.
 
Metal cutting bandsaws,generally horizontal/vertical models like the 7x12 are sized like that..Sized in inches that you can cut like up to 7" thick and 12" wide in the case of a 7x12..if your saying a 14" saw then its probably a vertical/stand up only saw with a 14" height/depth of cut..
We have a 7x12 saw with its own coolant system because we cut a lot of bigger stuff.
 
Depends on what you want to do. If money wasn't a problem, and you were not planning on cutting up large pipe and 6" round stock for propeller shafts, a vertical horizontal isn't needed. A vertical only table type, metal only or metal/wood, band saw with multiple speeds is a really nice shop tool. They only have a 2X2' footprint and can be mounted on a roller base.They are expensive, though.

The best solution is to get a good deal on a vertical/horizontal unit and take it off the base. Throw away the vise and base, or repurpose it for something else. Use only the cutting arm in a vertical position setup on a table of the end of the workbench. Mount the motor behind it and connect with a suitable length V-belt. Make a large and sturdy cutting table from plywood or steel to replace the flimsy small table that came with the saw.

A 4X6" V/H saw is simple to convert to a vertical only bench mount unit, and will do profile cutting and cut-off on most any bars of steel. You may have to do some multiple cuts to get around the upright spine of the machine, but that isn't too much trouble. They do have a bad habit of the blades popping off the wheels, but most of us just live with that.

A 7X12" V/H reworked into a vertical only bench mount unit will allow a much easier profiling and less blade popping off the wheels (wider and heavier blade and more tension). A good Lennox blade and one of these big boys will do most any knife profiling you want. A bonus is that it comes with a coolant pump. You don't really need it for knife profiling and bar cutting, but if you want to, you can easily build the system into a vertical only setup by installing the unit in a shallow pan. The ones for installing a water heater in will be perfect, as they already have a return drain line.

Another really good upgrade for any metal cutting bandsaw is to change the motor to a 1HP 3Ph unit and run it with a VFD. These size motors and controllers are cheap. That will allow you to dial up any desired speed from very slow to ripping fast. No need to change the belt position, just turn the dial.
 
yep like said depends what you want cut mostly
wood metal woudl be nice so you only have one size blade to worry about I have 2 and it kind of sucks. botheres me so much im thinkning about "stretching my wood saw to take the same 10' length as my roll in saw
i cut alot of full sized sheets (2x3') and the roll in saw has a 18x30 inch ground table to lay the sheet on as i work. made in the US and not cheap at 5K$ new i got mine used for half that and i think JET makes a knock off for right around 2K
 
Thanks, I'll be cutting billets only. 48 inch long x 3 inches or so. But i understand now why folks use the larger units. Buy these comments, i see my 14 is plenty for my billets ordered in smaller widths. It's upright not horizontal
 
If money truly isn't a concern and it were me I would buy a 7x12 or bigger for horizontal cuts and a 14+" variable speed old doall or powermatic. Preferably an 18" for more cut room.

One thing I believe in now that I have been doing this a couple years is that changing things sucks while trying to get work done. And in this case what I am referring to is removing the table on the saw to make a horizontal cut. It doesn't take very long but I like to bounce from one station to another, not stop and reconfigure tools.

I personally would never buy a bandsaw with the intention of changing blades from metal to wood. Its a pain in the ass and I always get cut or scraped when I'm changing the blades on my saws and you risk fire if you don't give it a good cleaning when going from wood to metal.

Right now I have a 7x12 h/v with a water pump and a 8" benchtop I use to cut wood. If I didn't want a fence I doubt I would ever consider replacing the benchtop with a bigger model. I love that thing and I have about $20 in it, it gets a lot of use in my shop. However if I could have only one saw I would stick with the h/v because you don't know how much you needed it until you've cut a few 2" or 3" thick pieces of square or round stock in vertical mode. In horizontal you turn it on and walk away.

As for foot print size one is a narrow rectangle the other is a stout square. The h/v usually have wheels but I didn't like them because any time I put any pressure against the blade in vertical mode it wanted to wheel itself into the wall. I put mine on concrete blocks and it doesn't go anywhere now. Good luck

-Clint
 
That is a great unit. You can get the same basic machine by changing the motor on a good 14" saw over to 220V 3Ph with a VFD.

The Rikon 14" converts easily. With the double guide tracks and larger table, you can make a cutting sled to cut bar stock into pieces simply.
 
glad to have went over rthis thread again since it pointed me to a wood saw that takes a 10' blade and has the sawing hight need for the wood lathe work i hope to expand into. just wish it was a saw made in the USA
 
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