Bandsaw and blade selection

C

canid

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Jan 3, 2010
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I'm looking at a Grizzly G0621X. The bottom end of the speed range is probably a bit fast for a knife shop but being indirect drive, I think a change of pulleys could fix that. Importantly, the selection for 108" blades doesn't seem as wide as I would hope.

I was thinking that bi-metal, raker set variable pitch blades would be a good choice for cutting blade stock and profiling. However, I'm having trouble finding fine enough tooth pitch or narrow enough blades for what I think I would need.

As I mostly work with 5160 in 1/4" and 1084 down to 1/8" for flat stock I am under the impression I should be going with 20-24 at the coarsest but might want narower than 1/2" for cutting radiuses.

What I hope to learn is 1) am I even on-base here, and 2) do I have any options? Even mscdirect only has pitch down to 14-18 and width down to 1/2" in Lenox blades. I'm pleased to keep researching for myself but I could use some guidance.
 
I believe that is a machine for wood cutting not metal. They have those too. Hope you find one you like. Frank
 
It's a variable speed, dual purpose machine (pulley range adjustment and motor speed controller). It only goes down to 150 feet per minute but I think I can change that.

[edit: I guess it's just variable throughout the range, as it doesn't appear to have step-pulleys as I'd thought)
 
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Of course, whether it has any usable torque at the bottom of it's speed range is another question. I am hoping if I can change the pulley ratio and get it down to 75 fpm it will be usable there, or at least up towards 100. I'm not sure.
 
150 fpm is a little fast but not unreasonable for cutting annealed steels if you have the proper blade and good technique. I try to choose a blade that will put 2-4 teeth in the cut. Less will break teeth and more will fill the gullets and slow you down which will cause friction and heat your steel. I don't bother with off the shelf blades (except on my porta-band); I have my blades made and repaired by a local saw shop. There is one in every community so you should check into it. Good blades can be expensive and it is nice to be able to have broken ones repaired if the teeth still have life remaining.

Bob
 
Thank you. That recommendation suggests that I should be looking at perhaps 32 tpi for the thin stock. I don't see that anybody makes variable pitch blades in that neighborhood, or if they do then I'm not finding them. I suppose I might have better luck looking for fixed pitch blades but I'm still not finding half inch width better than 20-24 in my length. I'd really hate to think I have to get custom blades made on top of everything else.
 
For 1/8" stock a 14-18 variable or straight 18 is fine. I don't use anything finer pitch than 24tpi and I rarely use that. For 1/4" a 10-14 variable works nicely. Custom blades are cheaper than store bought in my experience, and I have a lot.

Bob
 
That is good to hear. I'm not ready just yet but I'm nervous about pulling the trigger on this saw, and particularly because it pushes my lathe purchase back yet again but I think a solid bandsaw and grinder are just the ticket for my shop. I want to focus more on my blades, and those two tools look like eliminating a sizeable chunk of the drudgery work on that front. My time's not worth much, but it's too valuable to go throwing quite so much of it away all the time doing the least fun tasks.
 
Canid,
Why not look at getting two band saws ? One for wood and one for metal? For the money they want for that one you can get two. As well many others will have common blade lengths that will allow you to off the rack have a huge selection of teeth and settings.Frank
 
Thanks, that's solid advice. I'm at a loss when it comes to a similarly capable (if allowably smaller) vertical metal bandsaw choice in that or lower price range. Any ideas?
 
Canid What I recommend is finding a older bandsaw with a gear box. These have a two speed gear box and a step pulley arrangement. This are truly made for wood and metal use and work very well. There a little hard to find but there where at lest two companies that made them. I have had two made by Powermatic that I can recommend enough as they are very well built. The model number is the 143 the also made a 141 version that is just a wood bandsaw. The other brand I know that made them I believe is Walker turner. I have not used the Walker turners bandsaws personally though.

Brett Mathews
Esteem Grinders
 
For what it's worth. I use a portaband with a swag table and couldn't be happier. Total spent $300 and there are numerous blades to choose from.
 
Same here, Dewalt portaband in a swagoffroad portaband stand. Hands down one of the best investments in the shop.
 
A lot of knifemakers, including some famous names, use a porta-band type bandsaw for cutting stock. That is what I'm currently using as well but, it is not optimal. You are limited by the throat depth and the blades fatigue and break far faster than on a standard bandsaw. The reason for the blade breakage is the very short run in which the twist of the blade is made. I have an old style SWAG table and I loath breaking a blade because I have to separate the table from the saw to change blades. The recommended Powermatic 143 is an awesome option if you can find one. The Jet J-8201k is the saw I am looking to move to. It also has a gear box for switching from wood cutting at 3300fpm down to a step pulley controlled metal-cutting speed. I believe the metal cutting speeds are 39-278fpm in seven steps. It is the same price as the Grizzly you are looking at.

Bob
 
I'd go used. I'd take a used Powermatic over a new grizzly any day. And you can buy a second, combined, probably cheaper than one new Chinese model. If you've never used one, changing blades can be a pita because you can't just throw one on, you have to adjust tracking and tension and such. Its not an hour job but going back and forth as much as a knifemaker does is a pain.

I use a bench top for wood and a horizontal/vertical water cooled for metal. Honestly I find them so useful I eventually plan on selling a third I'm not using (way to big) and getting a Do-all or Powermatic variable speed for metal and use the old multi-speed for horizontal cuts only.

Since I see so many of these threads here is my philosophy on tools:

You will never have enough tools
Industrial tools built to run 24/7 will outlast anything from the box stores
Paying to repair a cheap tool means spending money set aside for something you don't have (if you can find parts)
You will never have enough tools ;)
 
RangerBobTX said:
The Jet J-8201k is the saw I am looking to move to. It also has a gear box for switching from wood cutting at 3300fpm down to a step pulley controlled metal-cutting speed. I believe the metal cutting speeds are 39-278fpm in seven steps. It is the same price as the Grizzly you are looking at.

Bob
Click to expand...

I have the Jet. It's an identical clone of the old Wilton. Thoroughly tested machine. Best saw for the money.

Especially with thin stock (and the thinner the better), I use an angle grinder rather than the expensive bladed bandsaw.

How many blades are you cutting?

I could probably cut out two or three blades just in the time it takes to put the "right" blade on the machine.

I use the bandsaw to cut a lot of stuff, so I would have to change bandsaw blades every time I'd use it for steel, then switch it back.... and that's just a pita.

PS- A decent Makita angle grinder is about the cost of one bandsaw blade, and cut-off wheels are $2/piece.
 
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If you want to save a few bucks you could get this grizzly:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-6-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G0622
I have been using it for years and it is very solid. When I started making knives I built a more sturdy table (sheet of aluminum) for vertical use per the mods you will see everywhere online. It is nice to have the horizontal ability when you are cutting through thick bar stock and want to let it run while you do other things (nearby!).
 
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