Recommendation? Bandsaw and disk grinder advices need , also platen

NickHFSS

NickHFSS

Joined
Jun 26, 2020
Messages
164
Hello , I've been working with hand tools for 4 years now and as things go I really need to speed up my work , a bandsaw would help a lot , however I'm quite split up on what people told me , many said get a porta bandsaw and buy/make a table for it , some say a cheap wood bandsaw will work as well with correct metal cutting blade. What would you recommend?
Stuff I cut is : 3-5mm thick mild steel , brass , wood
I am thinking about this mini band saw , would you recommend it for a bit over 330$?

also what I need a disk grinder , what options do I have ? I am thinking to buy a disk online from here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-FLAT-12-Aluminum-t-6061-5-8-bore-for-Disc-Grinders/143571040627
buy a motor locally and go from there

sorry for so much questions but also what is your thoughts on platen for my 2x72 , some say pirocelam glass , some say heat treated 1080 steel what's your go on it?

Thank you very much for your time
 
all kinds of guys are using the Milwaukee porta band with a swag table. Just look at all the you tube videos. For less money there is the harbour freight version. and they don't take up much room.

I use the harbour freight horizontal / vertical bandsaw and it works great. I also do metal fab so I like the option to be able to cut of pieces of tubing and angle square in the horizontal mode. The saw itself is kind of crappy but with some fiddling, you can get very square cuts. It's a bandsaw so you don't need much. Just something that spins a blade a low RPM and doesn't keep throwing the bade off. As long as you don't buy a wood band saw you'll be fine with whatever. Buy a good blade and your off.

Note, you can cut wood with a metal saw ( kind of sucks but will work) but you cant cut metal with a wood saw without burning up your blade. Another thing to caution. The Proxxon blade is perpendicular to the saw. The portabands angle the blade. If the blade is perpendicular to the saw body you can only cut off the width of the throat. However, the offset versions allow to to cut any length so long as it isn't too wide too contact the saw body. For example, if you have a 24" x 2" wide bar, the most length you'll be able to cut off that proxxon is distance from the blade to the saw body. You can cut wider but not at a 90 degree angle. As a porta band twists the blade, the body is set back from the cutting edge meaning you make your cut before the stock hits the saw body. Its hard to explain but hopefully that makes sense. That why the portabands have a weird twist in them.
 
I started with a wood cutting bandsaw. It's not even close to working as good as my new Dewalt Portaband. I also coughed up the cash for the Swag table and foot peddle but it would be very easy to make your own table. Bottom line, get a portable band to start. If you dont you'll see what I mean after you find out you wasted money on the bandsaw. ;)
 
I have a Milwaukee Porta-band I picked up used, and also a Craftsman wood bandsaw. I like having both, but if I could only have one it would be the Porta-band. Before I got the Milwaukee I had a metal cutting blade made for the Craftsman. However because you can't slow a wood cutting saw down (unless you want to pay big bucks) it didn't take long before my expensive blade was burnt up.

Get a PortaBand. You won't regret it.

You can get a disc grinder from USAKnifemaker https://usaknifemaker.com/ for $88.00
 
This is a good place to insert one of my long-time suggestions.

If you are thinking of a bandsaw, shop around for an old Craftsman or similar type saw with the motor hanging underneath on a belt drive.
Get a 3/4HP 3 phase motor and a cheap VFD. Now you have a hard working bandsaw that is variable speed.
Get a good 3/4" woodslicer type blade (4TPI) for cutting up wood, it as well as a 1/2" Lenox bi-metal blade for cutting metal (14 to 18TPI).
You will have a saw that will run on 120VAC and do almost every sawing task. With some luck and looking around, the whole setup may run less than $300.
2158086168792176aabcfcfbc46b0817--craftsman-tools-vintage-tools.jpg
 
I use a Dewalt portaband on a Swag table for everything., Wood, antler, bone, steel, brass etc. Just adjust your speed and the blade. I use 14tpi on metals and 10tpi on handle materials. I had a large freestanding bandsaw that I used on handle materials years ago. Finally after it sitting in the shop and not being used for a couple of years, I gave it away. The portaband is just more versatile. I work in large groups and this thing get used. Hard and a lot.

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Cut all this up.

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Currently have about a 140 AEB-L blades laid out that i'll have the wife get started on. She often cuts out the blades:

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That saw cut out all blades, all handle materials, pins and bolster materials on each and every batch:

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I could afford and have the shop space for a larger full size saw. Why? This gets er done and done very well. Blades are cheap and locally availalbe and takes a guy about 30 seconds to change. I'm a believer.
 
Thanks for the advices , I was leaning towards protable as well , now just to look for one locally as shipping it from USA would be quite expensive.

What do you think about the disk I posted?
Also what platens do you used for grinder?
 
NickHFSS said:
Thanks for the advices , I was leaning towards protable as well , now just to look for one locally as shipping it from USA would be quite expensive.

What do you think about the disk I posted?
Also what platens do you used for grinder?
Click to expand...
Since you are in Europe that might be cheaper than shipping a disc from the US. I see that it is a 12" disc, where as most of the ones I see here are 9". I don't know about the cost of PSA sheets for that size disc, but it would be something to take into consideration.

As far as platens go, I use a glass ceramic platen.
 
seanj said:
Since you are in Europe that might be cheaper than shipping a disc from the US. I see that it is a 12" disc, where as most of the ones I see here are 9". I don't know about the cost of PSA sheets for that size disc, but it would be something to take into consideration.

As far as platens go, I use a glass ceramic platen.
Click to expand...
I found a 4" one for 50$ and I'm gonna get that , as I only need it to square off handles, btw what kind of sandpaper goes on it ? I jus thought gluing one on and then changing as needed.
 
If you are only doing wood handles, plain aluminum oxide paper is fine.

You can spray down the disc with feathering adhesive and apply the paper, but for a 4" disc buying PSA discs is a far better idea. Just peel off the backing and apply. Easy to change and they can be reused.
 
Since you are in Europe, you can check out the italian made Femi 783XL variable speed hem saw. It stands up and you clamp a table in the vice. Here is mine.
slCYGNt.jpg

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I've had it for a year and it does it's job alright. Like the portaband/swag set up I guess.
I am now looking in to a proper floor standing vertical bandsaw made for metal. Greater throat capacity, more torque, can take less wide belts for tighter contours, chip blower, work light, band welder, steel/cast iron less vibration. .real industrial grade machines are hard to beat.
2D6fLq0.jpg
 
Scaniaman said:
Since you are in Europe, you can check out the italian made Femi 783XL variable speed hem saw. It stands up and you clamp a table in the vice. Here is mine.
slCYGNt.jpg

l7yvrSS.jpg

I've had it for a year and it does it's job alright. Like the portaband/swag set up I guess.
I am now looking in to a proper floor standing vertical bandsaw made for metal. Greater throat capacity, more torque, can take less wide belts for tighter contours, chip blower, work light, band welder, steel/cast iron less vibration. .real industrial grade machines are hard to beat.
2D6fLq0.jpg
Click to expand...
Thats quite pricey...
 
What about a scroll saw ? would that be better then nothing for me ? to make small radius cuts in handle material ?
 
A.McPherson said:
Depends on the handle material, most woods will be fine, but things like Micarta or especially g-10 will murder the small blades on a scroll saw.

Just to be clear you mean one of these right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General...th-Flex-Shaft-LED-Work-Light-BT8007/206347735
Click to expand...

yes that’s the one , I’d be cutting ironwood , buffalo horn , walnut , curly birch , mammoth ivory , mammoth tooth, brass , nickelsilver
That’s pretty much all I cut , for which one of this will it cut and not cut?
 
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