Bandsaw blade lasted 6 blades!

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Al
Alpha Knife Supply said:
How many of you break in your bandsaw blades?

Chuck
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Always. Like it says, somewhere, think of a freshly sharpened pencil. You don't want to push on that too hard or you'll break the point of. You want to use it carefully in the beginning to round it of slightly at the tip. Same with band saw blades.

I cut mostly 0.1" stainless like 14c28n, RWL-34 and some 1/8" AEB-L. I use 1/4" wide 18 TPI "simple" carbon steel blades, they work a charm. Just like with drilling, just watch feed rate and blade speed.
The blade I am currently using is a Starrett, it's great.
 
On my Lenox WoodMaster wood blades I cut up a bunch of maple and other wood scraps for about 5 minutes at slow speed.
On my Die-Master-2 metal blades I cut some 1" soft iron bars up slowly.

I got that from Highland Woodworking or Cyberwoodworking, IIRC.
 
That’s what I read ... break in by cutting soft steel SLOWLY. Would wood even make a dent in a portasaw blade?
 
Many years ago our process was much different. We put a new blade on and then turned the bandsaw on and let it run on its own for at least five minutes to seat the new blade to the wheel/tires. Then, using soft steel you would just touch the soft steel to the teeth,only putting about 25% pressure against it and over a period of several minutes increase the pressure to 50%,then 75%, and finally actual cutting pressure.
Wood on the metal cutting bandsaw was a no-no, ya better not put wood sap or resin on Mr. Bear’s (machine shop manager), metal blades, and all wood had sap or resin (his words).
Don’t know where he got his technique, when I went to work for him he’d been in the shop 40+ years, and his surname was very apt.
 
Cushing H. said:
Cause ... I’m running a blade from HF that developed that knock very early on ... but I’ve kept running it, and it keeps cutting.... so is that really a failure?
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If you look at the teeth real close Id bet you can see a small crack starting, when you start feeling that bumping everytime the blade goes round be ready at any time for the blade to go POW.
 
Does anybody use a lubricant on their metal cutting blades? If so, which one? Thanks.
 
I use a cutting coolant, whatever is on sale or clearance. I’ve seen online where some people make their own, but I can’t speak to how that works out for them. We go to great lengths to keep our knife edges cool when grinding, a hot bandsaw blade will ruin just as quickly, IMO.
 
DanF said:
I use a cutting coolant, whatever is on sale or clearance. I’ve seen online where some people make their own, but I can’t speak to how that works out for them. We go to great lengths to keep our knife edges cool when grinding, a hot bandsaw blade will ruin just as quickly, IMO.
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If it is carbon steel blade cutting coolant is good to use .But most Bi-metal blade can handle very high temperature ...
 
If I recall correctly, I read some time in the past that the “home shop”, doesn’t really need to use a coolant. Maybe someone else has some input on that?
I consider my shop a home shop, but when I sit down at the bandsaw, I’m there for the day.
 
You make short cuts and most time with short pause ...that will give time to blade to cool down. Bi-metal blade a good because they are spring steel and HSS steel combination .
 
I use a stick lube on my metal bandsaw blade and have cut about 35 blades with it. Seems to still cut well too.
 
I break mine in and run them slow on the portaband, they last for ages. Stay away from G10 or keep a dedicated blade, even better get a wet saw for abrasives like that. Use the correct TPI and break in slowly.

The turn on a portaband is the result of a compromise, run them slower if they break at the weld.
 
Check for broken/frozen backing bearing (usually 624zz behind the guide bearings). frozen roller bearing would heat the blade spine and lead to spine/weld crack, lead to wobble then break.
 
I have a bandsaw blade that got stuck and flew of the wheel. It got a knick and even though I could straighten it and tigten properly, it seems not to cut effectively any more. It's an almost new m42 bi metal blade, can sth be done?

I will start breaking in the blades from now..
 
AVigil said:
I buy the bi metal blade at HF from Super cut about 30 bucks

It cuts better and lasts far longer then Starrett blades. I have also had them last a year.

If the HF blades break within three months they will give you a new one, try that with Starrett.
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I picked one of these up yesterday after your post, not sure how long the two I ordered on line will take to get here.
I was pleasantly surprised as I have always been suspicious of many of the HF offerings (but there are a few diamonds mixed in the inventory there). This blade cuts!
Gonna run it hard for this 90 day period and see how it holds up.
 
Mine always just go dull... I've never seen a crack or broken a tooth that I recall. But I do cut metal and g10, and man m390 or other higher vanadium carbide steels (annealed) will dull it in one blade. I'm using mk morse
 
DanF said:
I picked one of these up yesterday after your post, not sure how long the two I ordered on line will take to get here.
I was pleasantly surprised as I have always been suspicious of many of the HF offerings (but there are a few diamonds mixed in the inventory there). This blade cuts!
Gonna run it hard for this 90 day period and see how it holds up.
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HF just sells them, they do not make them. https://supercutbandsaw.com/
 
I know HF doesn’t make them, just like Walmart doesn’t make everything it sells. That's why I said, “HF OFFERINGS”, but thanks for the thought.
 
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