Bandsaw question...

Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
473
Just curious how many of you use a bandsaw for the initial profile of the blade or do most do that at the grinder? I have a small Craftsman grinder that may be just big enough to rough shape handle material, but I am considering the purchase of something larger. Thinking this could be something that I won't use as much in time.

--Shannon
 
Thanks for the reply. I just realized I said Craftsman grinder.. I meant to say bandsaw, sorry about that. Thanks for the link to the portable band saw, I'll check it out. Okay, sounds like much of what needs to be done will be at the grinder. I'm in the process of building one now.
 
Thanks for the reply. I just realized I said Craftsman grinder.. I meant to say bandsaw, sorry about that. Thanks for the link to the portable band saw, I'll check it out. Okay, sounds like much of what needs to be done will be at the grinder. I'm in the process of building one now.

Careful!

Most of the Craftsman bandsaws are wood saws and completely unsuitable for cutting steel.

I use a DeWalt bandsaw with a stand from SwagOffRoad. It works very well for my needs.
 
Careful!

Most of the Craftsman bandsaws are wood saws and completely unsuitable for cutting steel.

I use a DeWalt bandsaw with a stand from SwagOffRoad. It works very well for my needs.

cant you just exchange the blade on a craftsman to a metal cutting blade??
 
cant you just exchange the blade on a craftsman to a metal cutting blade??

I have been told the answer is no, that wood cutting speeds are much faster than metal cutting speeds - trying to cut metal at wood speeds would rip the teeth off the saw.

I haven't tried it myself.
 
Metal cutting blades in a woodsaw are fro stuff like aluminum, copper and brass. Thin stuff at that. Even 1/8" brass will be pushing it for the speeds those saws run.

A steel cutting bandsaw will cut wood, but a wood saw will not cut steel. Maybe throw your bandsaw up on craigslist to help pay for a decent portaband.


-Xander
 
I have been told the answer is no, that wood cutting speeds are much faster than metal cutting speeds - trying to cut metal at wood speeds would rip the teeth off the saw.

I haven't tried it myself.

I have for the past 20 years used porabandsaws and I have never heard of one made just for wood.
 
I have for the past 20 years used porabandsaws and I have never heard of one made just for wood.

I don't recall saying Porta-Band Saws were made for wood.

Shannon mentioned that he had a Craftsman Band saw. When I looked at them, the inexpensive Craftsman saws were all wood-speed bandsaws.
 
I have for the past 20 years used porabandsaws and I have never heard of one made just for wood.

You might be misunderstanding. Tait uses a Portaband with a stand. He was advising against using a wood cutting bandsaw to cut metal and saying he liked his setup.
Many people have bought bandsaws to cut metal for knives only to find out they are for cutting wood and nonferrous metals.

As to the original post, if you are doing stock removal, a metal cutting bandsaw compliments a belt grinder nicely for doing profiles. To cut curves, simply pre-drill a couple holes along the curve then "connect the dots" to remove excess steel before grinding.
I also have a Swag stand for my Portaband. Love it. It creates a nice benchtop sized band saw. The only flaw is you can't do really deep cuts.
 
A Dremel tool with a 2" cutoff wheel (not the real thin ones) works like a charm. You won't waste those EXPENSIVE belts on profiling when you have a lot of steel to remove
 
A cutoff wheel in an air cut off tool or angle grinder works well too. However, I don't know how safe it is, so use at your own risk.

I have a metal HF portaband and a cheap 9" Craftsman. The Craftsman runs way way to fast for thick blade steel, even with a metal cutting blade. It works ok on thin nonferrous stuff like thin brass and even thin G10 (dulls blades fast though). Works great on wood. Slow speed on the blade is what you need for metal.
 
Back
Top