Bark River Aurora Review.

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Mar 19, 2007
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This one is a little older of a review - but I thought it worthy of posting it here. You don't see many bushcraft style knives posted here in comparison to pocket knives and folders - so I thought I would post it here:

Stock Photo:

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Steel Type: A2
Blade Length: 4.513 Inches
Blade Width at choil: 1.009
Grind width at choil: 0.737
Overall Length: 9.5 Inches
Blade Thickness: 0.170 Inches at choil and 0.025 at tip
Weight: 6.0 oz
Tang: Exposed
Handle (scales) length from choil to to butt: 4.935
Handle width at the palm swell: 0.906
Choil Hand Guard: 0.250
Heel Swell: 0.300
Usable handle (from choil swell to butt swell): 3.790 inches.
Rockwell Hardness: 59 - 60
Solid Pins (0.250), One Lanyard Hole (0.175), White Bone Micarta Scales, Black Liners.
Sheath: Sharpshooter sheath with Drop Loop.

Stock Photo:
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My Photo:

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The Order:


My knife was ordered from Crystal Falls Trading Company a few weeks ago. They did not the scales or the liners I wanted in stock (no one else did either) but they were willing to work with me. They told me they would get back to me when they knew something. Obviously BRKT takes care of their vendors because within a few hours the knife was on order - and three days later the vendor had it in hand. It shipped on a Tuesday (normal priority shipping) and I had it on Friday. It was packed well and all went as planned. The total price for the knife, sheath, drop loop, and shipping was 200 even.

I loved the fact that, being from Michigan, I could not only use a Michigan product, but order it from a Michigan vendor. BRKT and CFTC could not have been better. CFTC's web site was easy to navigate - both owners could not have been easier to work with and their communication was excellent. When the knife was ready - they put it in a specific spot on their site and it allowed the final transaction to be very smooth. I also ordered a matching fire steel that is still being made - I expect not to wait too long and I am sure CFTC will take care of me.

The Knife - Initial Impressions:

Fit and Finish of handle: The handle was almost perfect. The pins and lanyard were polished excellently. The countour of the handle was also wonderful. It was comfortable, ergonomic, and well constructed. The white micarta was set off by the black scales and the polished steel and looked very classy. It is a great thing that the tang is lightened because it is a beastly amount of steel. The balance is right at where the first finger rests on the handle and the knife feels lighter than it is. The steel melts into the the scales and the fit is perfect.

However, there were two scuff on the left scale where a small amount of attention would have made it perfect. A few minutes with 1000+ grit sand paper and some polishing - brought it out and it looked great. At 200 dollars - a few more seconds would have been right.

Comfort:

This is a great handle. It is, by far, the longest handled knife I have - but it isn't too long. It is 1/2 inch longer than my Koster's for instance. It is very grippy, comfortable, zero hot spots after much use, and very well thought out. I wear a large glove - and the handle fits perfectly. I could be a bit larger for me - but I think it is the perfect compromise to fit most men's hands. After a day of use - I feel this is the most comfortable handled knife I own. What I also love about it is that with a lantard or fob - the knife will feel just as comfortable.

Steel

The spine of and handle portions of the steel (the flats) are very well polished. I would call the polish on every portion but the grind - a very light satin. It is not a mirror polish - but a slightly rubbed look. The spine is not totally flat and some work would need to be done to make it optimal on a firesteel.

The grind is even, well done, and flat. The choil transition (to grind) is very smooth and well done. The finish on the grind was a little rougher - you could see a few more grind lines. Again, just a few more seconds at the polisher would go a long way.

The sharpened edge left a little to be desired. The first 1/8th in front of the choil (admittedly - the toughest to reach portion) was noticeably dull. Also the tip was a little rough - and even had a slight bump. This was not a huge deal as it forced me to learn the convex grind and how to sharpen it. I simply paid a little more attention and started at a lower grit at these portions and within minutes the entire blade was very sharp.

There is one very very tiny pit near the spine that looked to be there when the forging was done. This is nothing big - and adds character. Also the Bark River wording on one side was slightly crooked. I really don't care about it - but I would be remiss to not include this detail.

One thing worthy of note is that my blade has the slightest recurve to it. I wondered if this was a mistake - but careful examination of stock pictures shows this is standard. It makes for a very nice slicing edge.

Out of the box - the edge was very very sharp. It races through magazine paper and popped hair.

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Sharpening a Convex Edge: I have watched the video's on knivesshipfree.com and read as much as I could on the process. I must say - if you were only to go to one place - go to KSS. What I love about this video series is that it was a giveaway contest - and the winner is a blade user. The knives he also used to make the series are BRKT - so it fit what I was going to be doing.

The experience was excellent. I did not feel lost or out of control. I took the blade to about 500 grit - right up to 2000 grit like the video recommends - then used my JRE Stop Bat to stop the edge. Do not be afraid to scratch your blade. You will need to do this to learn. Also - the strop takes these scratches out with little issue. Also - the small scratches from sharpening make it look like a user. Within minutes I had the sharpest edge I have ever had.

My aurora simply wipes away hair. I have never had the experience where hair just falls off your arm when you move your knife past it. You do not feel it pulling - it is as if it is a light sabre. It is deceptively sharp because it does not feel that sharp to the finger - but is VERY sharp on material. It push cuts the thinnest of paper - and will cut a 400 page magazine closed with little effort.

Sharpshooter Sheath:

BRKTAurora025.jpg


The Sheath leaves little to think about. This is a compliment. It is well constructed and made - I really enjoy that the belt loop is a separate piece of leather that makes it look great. The stitching for the belt loop is sewn AND glued - nice touch. The leather is thick - the sewing is top notch, and the little aesthetic details are nice. This is not a sheath to write home about - it just quietly does its job. In short, it is great.

BRKTAurora022.jpg


The Drop Loop:

I like a dangler sheath - but I also like options. The drop loop - although not the prettiest solution to the situation - works great. Between the adjustments on the drop loop itself and where it is positioned on the sheath - you can adjust this part in nearly any dangling configuration to suit you. I maxed mine out to fit my tastes. It was simple to install and simple to adjust. It matched my sheath perfectly.

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My only nitpick is that both logo's (the back of the knife sheath and the front of the drop loop) are crooked. Damn it people - slow down.

Overall Initial Impressions:

This may be 'the one'. I have been using my Koster Bushcraft for a long time - and I really like that knife. I find the steel is a bit too hard - and especially when attempting to sharpen a scandi grind - making it really sharp can be tedious and frustrating. After much practice - I have a system down - but for the initial user - this can be daunting.

The A2 steel is hard - but forgiving enough to allow easy sharpening. The edge is very stable and although it slices like a champ it seems to push cut just as well.

The knife is extremely comfortable and although I have not put it to hard use yet - I love the weight in my hand and the overall balance of the knife. The spear point is very nice - and because of the grind it gains thinness at the end without sacrificing strength.
 
Using the BRKT Aurora:

For this knife I wanted to make sure I did as many bushcraft tests with it as could be expected from a blade. I made fuzz sticks - great - thin - neat. I made tent pegs - wow - tent pegs. It sliced fine and push cut just fine too. I would hope it would.

So - I decided to make this portion into a tutorial as well. A bow drill fire for me is the quintessential survival skill that tests a lot out of a knife. If you use larger wood - you need to baton, slice, push cut, and use the knife in many different styles of hand grips.

This I did.

The Hearth:

I used a large piece of Idontknowwhat wood (woodus noclueus) that I had in my garage after my last hiking trip. This stave was felled by beavers and left. I decided to make something with it if they were not. It was medium density wood that took a finger nail just fine. Perhaps a little hard for the novice - but - I am no novice (and modest as well) so it would be just fine. Plus it would test the blade.

I batoned the hearth after cutting an 16 inch section or so:

BRKTAurora001.jpg


The knife really sailed though this piece. The longer blade allowed for plenty of spine to baton while the grind allowed for great control of the blade through the wood. Sometimes knives want to twist on you as they go through the wood - I think the larger handle, blade, and grind made for more control in this process.

Once I batonned an inch or so thick hearth - I cleaned it up and made both sides flat.

BRKTAurora003.jpg


The knife really excelled here. It simply stripped off wood in as thin or thick of shavings as I wanted. The convex edge made, again, for more control in this process. I didn't need to take off much here - but I made a VERY flat hearth.

BRKTAurora004.jpg


Once the hearth was flat - I took the bark off the front of the hearth. This allows for an easier time when cutting the notch.

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Here is the finished hearth next to the wood that will become the spindle. It was 10 inches long (or slightly longer than my hand-span).

BRKTAurora006.jpg


The Spindle:

A battoned the spindle into a rectangle quite easily.

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I then took a little size of this spindle as it was too big and made the rectangle into an elongated octogon - this allows for the string to grasp the spindle better:

BRKTAurora008.jpg


I then made long tip on one end (for the top bearing) and a more shallow tip on the other (for the hearth).

This was very easy to do. Fat cuts at the choil - thinner cuts in the middle - clean up cuts at the tip. Nice:

BRKTAurora009.jpg


Finishing the Kit:

I drilled a depression into the hearth to accept the spindle. The knife really excelled here. This is to be expected from a spear point. Not that my Koster or a Mora does not drill - it is just a bit easier with the spear point:

BRKTAurora010.jpg


Continued...
 
I then burned in the spindle and and scribed a line to cut for the notch. I began cutting the notch. The knife was a bit slower in this department than a scandi grind. The bullet grind widens very quickly and so a scandi grind pushes through the wood, I feel, a little easier. Not that this was a downfall of a knife - just a trade off because of the grind. It slices better than a scandi - and the scandi push cuts better.

BRKTAurora011.jpg


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The notch was much more clean than it looked in this picture. I think a few shavings fell in.

I now had a completed bow drill set:

BRKTAurora012.jpg


Making Fire:

The thing that makes a good fire is preparation. The cool thing about the process of making a bow drill set out of larger wood is that you make your own kindling and tinder. If you add just a little dried grass or pine needles to this - you have the great beginning of a fire. One thing I liked about the Aurora was how small I could make the kindling - the knife allowed for great control:

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When I was complete with this kit - I had shavings, thin and large, and kindling ready to go:

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After about 20 seconds of work on the bow made this coal:

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I dumped it into a tinder bundle of just a little dried grass and added a few small and thin shavings:

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I added a few larger shavings and had a great fire.

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I like a bow drill fire as opposed to magnesium and ferro stick because you have more time and you have tinder it can consume from the beginning. Ferro fires tend to flash up and if you don't get the tinder caught in a couple of seconds - you will have to start over. The bow drill takes its time and gives you time to coax it into a flame.

The Aftermath:

The knife still sliced paper easily and popped hair:

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I say popped hair - it did not wipe it away. I think that the convex edge looses its razor sharpness with this kind of use - but because of its bullet shape will stay very sharp for a very long time.

I stropped the Aurora 6 times on green, six times on pink, and 6 times on plain leather in each direction and the knife was wiping away hair again.

Overall Thoughts:

The convex edge cuts differently than a scandi. You have to use more angle to get a deeper bit because the bullet design wants to skip off the wood when used at a very shallow angle. This is not a bad thing - just an adjustment. I did like this design - I have always felt my Koster bit too much. The scandi gives, I think, greater control.

The blade length will fool you if you are not careful. With a smaller knife you used the blade at the choil because you have to. This allows for your wrist to stay straighter and more powerful through the cut. Because you have more blade - you tend to use it - and you can tire out your wrist if not careful. Choke up the cutting to the choil - and all settles back in.

The handle lead to no hotspots - but as I began sweating (it is 77 degrees here today) the handle did get a little slippery. Certainly not dangerous - but for someone in a wet environment - they should get a satin finish on their handle.

This knife is really changing my mind on the grind I want on a knife. It is a VERY nice knife - works VERY well - and allows for many different hand holds with little effort. I cannot think of a thing I would change on the knife at this point. I am very happy with this knife - I am fairly sure my hunt for my primary bushcraft knife is over.

TF
 
Awesome review :thumbup:

I've been using my Aurora as my primary woods knife for over a year and a half. It has served me extremely well. The only thing I'll add is that if folks don't wish to convex the edge don't sweat it, I've been using a V-grind at about 8 degrees per side and its has worked beautifully :D
 
I've been using my Aurora for a few years and I'm extremely happy with it.In fact I made my first successful fire bow and skinned my first rabbit with it.A great knife well made and nice looking to boot.
Thanks for this great review.
 
Really comprehensive review thanks,informative,balanced yet has opinions. I have the Nebula which is the hidden tang stainless counterpart to the knife reviewed.Pictures showed off the knife in action excellently. I think one of your dangler attachments is what I need as I find all Bark River sheathes rather unsatisfactory, they seems to guarantee that you get a painful jab in the ribs etc when sitting down.Not practical. In the main, Bark Rivers are very desirable knives but there are some quality/finish blips despite their bullish guarantee.
 
Great review!
I've been lusting after an Aurora for a while even though i really prefer FG and scandi grind blades.
 
Fantastic review. I really like how you took a the knife and used it for something that its design was meant to be used for. This could have easily gone into the Wilderness/Survival section as well.

BRK&T make great knives and your write up certainly shows that. I'd love to see more reviews done in this style.
 
Barrabas,

It was originally in the WSS section - we have been talking there that we don't travel outside our circle enough and help others with reviewing knives.

Thank you all for your feedback.

TF
 
Great review, mirrors my experience with my 3-yr old Aurora. One of the 2 sharpest knives I own, and it has never failed or given me any worry.

Question, is that your living room carpet you're firebuilding on?:eek:
 
CWL,

That is so funny - others have said this - NO! ;) I have a bit of carpet in my garage where I work on sheaths and the like. It is the bit where I often do silly projects like this.

My house is NOT that ghetto! ;)

TF
 
Great review. I have the USMC wet recon on my belt right now. (Yeah I was playing outside this morning.) Its the same basic knife just with an enclosed handle and kydex sheath. I love mine too!!!!
TC
 
What a great review! :thumbup: I know a lot of effort goes into doing this, from the actual work with the blade itself, to taking the photos, to writing it up and presenting it here for the rest of us to enjoy. Really appreciate it, Talfuchre.
 
Outstanding review. Well done.
I've been considering the Aurora, but then shifted my focus to the Bravo I. Now I'm swinging back to the Aurora.
 
What an excellent review TF, thank you very much for that :thumbup: I missed this in W&SS, so it's nice that you posted it again here.
 
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