Bark river & Chris Reeve Knives (batoning and abuse)

I've settled on the Aurora.

The sharpening guide looks like it will be a piece of cake. I'm guessing I only need to use the compound on the blade if I want to make it scary sharp? Or do I have to use it every time?
 
Cool, are there any giudes to maker one of the sandpaper/mouse sharpener things/?
 
I have batoned with my North Star, it works very well. Another good knife that hasn't been mentioned yet is the Canadian Special.
 
gunknifenut said:
I'm trying a new tactic this week...I reply to the "what do you THINK you are doing?" with ..a sly grin and " come on honey, you know I never think!" It got a smile out of her, but I still don't get my way very often...it sucks, but what can you do?
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I find that the stratigic use of "SO?" works quite well. Occasionally it doesn't suffice, so I resort to "because I can." No, it doesn't win me brownie points, but at my age....so? :D

Codger
 
JustinM said:
Cool, are there any giudes to maker one of the sandpaper/mouse sharpener things/?
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Just glue/tape/attach some sandpaper to a mousepad. Try to use a harder, less squishy mousepad, otherwise if it's too soft, you'll end up dulling the blade more than sharpening it.
 
Also, something that isn't mentioned too much in tutorials is that you need to use a very mild amount of pressure, especially in comparison to using a stone. I really much prefer leather, as it seems to be a bit more forgiving in regards to pressure. If/when you use the final stropping compounds (black then green) and/or bare leather, just the weight of the knife or a touch more (if the knife is very light) is sufficient.

As Mike Stewart has said... When you think there can't possibly be enough pressure to get anything accomplished you have it about right. :thumbup:

David
 
Codger_64 said:
I find that the stratigic use of "SO?" works quite well. Occasionally it doesn't suffice, so I resort to "because I can." No, it doesn't win me brownie points, but at my age....so? :D
Codger
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OUTSTANDING! INNOVATIVE! CROWD PLEASING! I like that ((( :D ))) :thumbup:


simms65 said:
Also, something that isn't mentioned too much in tutorials is that you need to use a very mild amount of pressure, especially in comparison to using a stone. I really much prefer leather, as it seems to be a bit more forgiving in regards to pressure. If/when you use the final stropping compounds (black then green) and/or bare leather, just the weight of the knife or a touch more (if the knife is very light) is sufficient.

As Mike Stewart has said... When you think there can't possibly be enough pressure to get anything accomplished you have it about right. :thumbup:

David
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I agree with David. A couple of nights ago I glued some 7-9 oz leather, smooth side up, to a scrap piece of wood. Leather and wood are 3" x 11". Then I taped my 2000 wet/dry on top. I'm still using the mousepad for 1000 and 1500 grit, but I like the leather backing more, so I'll change to it soon.
 
JustinM said:
Cool, are there any giudes to maker one of the sandpaper/mouse sharpener things/?
Click to expand...

If you have access to wood and are so inclined, try not use a chunk of 2x4. Better is something 1/4" or 3/8" thick, about 3" x 11 or 12". I use maple and mahogany because I have it in abundance. You could use wood, plywood, medium density fiberboard, masonite, glass, etc. Glue the leather down with contact cement, yellow glue, or liquid hide glue. Tape sandpaper (at both ends but not along the long edges), making sure one edge of the paper is aligned with one edge of the substrate (leather/board).

If you're not so inclined or equipped, use a regular mousepad. I say regular because there are these new mouspads I've seen that are super-thin. I'm not sure how they'd work. Tape one strip of paper (say 1000 grit) along one edge of the pad (aligning it nicely with the edge) and another strip (say 1500) along the opposite edge. Then just rotate the pad to gain access to the grit you want.
 
StretchNM said:
If you have access to wood and are so inclined, try not use a chunk of 2x4. Better is something 1/4" or 3/8" thick, about 3" x 11 or 12". I use maple and mahogany because I have it in abundance. You could use wood, plywood, medium density fiberboard, masonite, glass, etc. Glue the leather down with contact cement, yellow glue, or liquid hide glue. Tape sandpaper (at both ends but not along the long edges), making sure one edge of the paper is aligned with one edge of the substrate (leather/board).

If you're not so inclined or equipped, use a regular mousepad. I say regular because there are these new mouspads I've seen that are super-thin. I'm not sure how they'd work. Tape one strip of paper (say 1000 grit) along one edge of the pad (aligning it nicely with the edge) and another strip (say 1500) along the opposite edge. Then just rotate the pad to gain access to the grit you want.
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Thanks for the info.

I'm actually thinking about sending my friend instructions to make a Hoodoo Hone. Looks like a nice convenient way to sharpen knives.
 
The really awesome thing is that if you want to sharpen a knife with a flat bevel, you can tape the sandpaper directly to the wood. :thumbup: Very versatile.

David
 
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