Bark River Knives?

[Carbonsteeljunkie]

Hi all, I am seriously looking into buying my first Bark River Knife. After much debate and research on these forums I think Im going to buy a Bravo 1 or 1.5 in A2. My first question is this, does anyone know if you can have the swedge added later by the factory? I want to say that Ive read you have have it done for 15 dollars return shipping? My second question is can you buy the handles directly from Bark River? I ask because I really like the smooth bighorn sheep handles but can only find one knife for sell with them and its rampless and I would really like the ramp.

Thanks!

 

[MatthewSB]

Hi all, I am seriously looking into buying my first Bark River Knife. After much debate and research on these forums I think Im going to buy a Bravo 1 or 1.5 in A2.

I'd recommend the '1 first. I've not come across much that I couldn't do with it, where an extra inch would have mattered. The Bravo 1 is a handy, compact knife, any extra length would push it into "big knife" territory.

A2 steel is great. It takes an edge easily (I use a strop, or a tiny piece of sandpaper) and holds it well. You do have to wipe it off every once in a while, but once you develop a patina, through use, it will be fine afterwards. If you can afford $30 more, the 3V versions hold their edge much longer, but are tougher to sharpen. 3V is not stainless, it's a tool steel, but it is noticably more resistant to corrosion.

My first question is this, does anyone know if you can have the swedge added later by the factory?

Yes, they'll add a swedge or remove the ramp or whatever.

If you buy the knife and want a swedge, I would wait a season and use the knife first. That way you can take advantage of their "spa treatment" and when you get your knife back it will look like new.

My second question is can you buy the handles directly from Bark River? I ask because I really like the smooth bighorn sheep handles but can only find one knife for sell with them and its rampless and I would really like the ramp.

They release knives in batches. For a few weeks you can get pretty much any handle and any configuration, then it will be months before another batch comes out.

My advice would be to buy a Bravo 1 in whatever material is available, then pick up a spare in the material you want the next time a batch comes out. If you are going to be using the knife, BRKT's canvas micarta is durable, grippy, and attractive.

I just bought a Golok, and compromised on handle material because it had the blade profile I wanted. I will probably buy the exact configuration I wanted the next time they release a batch of Goloks, but until then I have a great user to enjoy, that will either be a beater knife or a spare when I get exactly what I want.

Bark River makes beautiful, functional knives. After buying a Bravo 1, and finding that it did everything I could ask of a knife, I sold a couple of my other user/woods knives to fund a spare. They really are that good.

Here's my "go to" knife, a Bravo 1 in 3V with green canvas micarta. It went in for a Spa Treatment last Fall, but I've been using it all Winter and it's still 'clean':

 

[lightskyam]

Looks like a very solid knife. This could very well be my first fixed blade when I get the funds. Beautiful looking knife.

 

[Stainz]

Other excellent knives to consider from Bark River are the Canadian Special, Fox River, and Gameskeeper, the latter being the knife from which the Bravo was developed. A2 is still my favorite BRK&T steel; hard enough to keep it's edge while still easily touched up. My first Barkie - a Huntsman - came in A2, as did my most recent, a Canadian Special - and almost everything in between, too! Another common thread - handle material. Their canvas Micarta is gorgeous - and, in natural, is often their least expensive variant of a given knife. Sometimes, G10 is close in price, too. My Barkies are 'users'... except for the Bocote-wooded Boone - it's just too pretty to use! Some fancy handle materials double the price of a Barkie - something to consider. Of course, they are pretty. A leather strop and some of BRK&T's compounds will help keep the edge sharp in the field. Great knives - and Mike Stewart has a great service after the sale acumen. Custom knives at a low production price.

Stainz

 

[Mannlicher]

I don't think Bark River has made a bad knife. I have an Aurora and a Bravo 1. Both in A2 steel. They have seen several years of hard use, and show no appreciable wear.

 

[ozgooner]

I found the Bravo 1 a little clunky. Just my opinion. However, the Aurora is perfect for my needs, takes everything I throw at it and comes back for more. Comes in a nice leather sheath. Highly recommended.

 

[ridnovir]

They make nice blades and Bravo 1 is great.
You can send it back to them to (add swedge, make drop or spear point, remove ramp, make full height convex grind) all for $15
Awesome if you ask me.

 

[Carbonsteeljunkie]

I tend to like the more antiquated things in life, revolvers, reloading, stick shifts, locking hubs, bone, stag, wood, etc... I will definitely use the knife but I will also openly admit I tend to baby most of my belongings, at least the ones I like. Im not worried about the knife being to big, I have fairly large hands for someone my height. If I can have the swedge put on later than that make my choices much easier. I had intended to stick to the A2 since I know its quite easy to put an edge back on, but it looks like at least some of you prefer the 3v, anyone care to provide a side by side comparison from use? I have a set of dmt diamond stones in extra coarse, coarse, fine, and extra fine so I would think that the 3v shouldn't be too bad to put an edge back on?

 

[Brisket]

I have the Bravo 1 (ramped), Canadian Special and the Aurora, all in CPM-3V and all excellent knives. I'm pretty much on the fence with the ramp vs. rampless option on the Bravo 1 and would be happy with either. I have other Barkies in A2 which perform well, but I prefer the 3V. As far as handle material, BRKT's canvas Micarta is my favorite out of the synthetic options as it is more grippy than the others and the best bang for the buck. Antique stag bone (carved bone) is my favorite of the natural materials due to looks and feel. I wanted a smooth bighorn sheep handle for a long time and finally got one and it is fine, but I prefer the feel of the antique stag bone.

 

[Franciscomv]

I've got a few Bark River knives and I'm very happy with all of them. My Fox River and Canadian Special get the most use.

 

[KDUJ]

As mentioned, BRK will add a swedge or remove the ramp, but as to handle material they may not due that. The Bravo 1 has epoxy and corby bolts to attach the scales. Because of the epoxy they were not changing the Bravo 1 scales, it was too much work and you had to pre order through one of their dealers for what you want or take what is available. You can call or e-mail them and ask; they are good with getting back to customers.

Mike advises customers to lean toward micarta or G10 for hard users because horn, bone and wood are a little less durable. They do warranty all the handles no matter what material.

If you are OK with waiting I would pre order. I have always been happier with knives that are the exact way I want them. Taking something that is close has never done it for me and I always end up getting my original choice.

I do have a Bravo 1, A2 and orange G10 first production run. I when they only had A2. It’s a great knife made for some hard use. If I were to do it again I would go with 3V. 3V is little better all the way around for a hard use knife, but that is a personal opinion.

 

[Mikael W]

I hope they will do the scheduled 3V Scandi soon.
It would be hard to resist such an offering.

My latest Bark River was the Sperati Point in Sandvik 12c27.
I have very good experiences with their heat-treatment of this steel and was delighted to find them still up and for sale.

View attachment 339552View attachment 339553

Fit & Finish leaves very little to wish and the sheath is rigid and wellmade in several layers of thick leather.
The handle in stabilized brown & black maple burl takes a high gloss finish, with deeply figured woodgrains.


Regards
Mikael

 

[Pilot1]

I have two A2 Bravo-1's, and an A2 Gunny. I like the A2 because I can field sharpen them if I need to, but wouldn't mind picking up a Bravo in 3V.

 

[Carbonsteeljunkie]

I found this on another forum from Mike. Truth be told it pretty well talked me out of buying a Bark River because Mike was a bit of an ummm... well it sounds like bass hole (I've already gotten a message once from a moderator for saying "Bamn" and I resisted the urge to be a smart bass, Im not sure I have it in me for another round).

"Let me try to put this in perspective for you.

There are not many Bravo-1s made in Sheep Horn - Antique Stag Bone - Smooth Bone - Impala or Sambar.

Let me try to explain why.

When you order one of these - You are NOT getting a Bravo-1.

You are Getting a knife with a Bravo-1 Blade and a handle that has nothing to do with the knife.

Sheep Horn - Stag Bone - Impala - Sambar are all materials that cannot be shaped like a Bravo-1.

They Are flat with Texture.

They are totally not like a B-1 in any way.

In my humble opinion - they are nothing but drawer queens that don't have the fantastic Eros of the B-1 handle.

I am not the only one that understands this so ..........

Therefore - - there are not very many in existence.

Buy what you want but this knife is our overpowering number one seller - because of it's usefulness and ruggedness - not because it is pretty."

So after deciding that I didn't want a knife made by this arrogant perch (felt like bass was being overused), I remembered that one of the things I like so much about Emerson is how blunt and strait forward Ernest is. So I felt it would be a little hypocritical to like one manufacture for the same reason I wouldn't buy from another. Sooo I hate g10 and detest the looks of micarta on everything but a solid true nothing but tactical knife. I don't mind it on my Emersons because thats what I bought them for, a karambit is no utility knife, but on a knife thats supposed to be my "trekking in the woods" knife I feel like it doesn't have to look like crap. It can be asteticly appealing and still do a good job. Obviously the person making the knives doesn't feel that way (does make me wonder wtf he makes them in attractive scales for then?), so if Im going to bite the bullet and buy a knife that has g10 or micarta scales which do you guys consider the least offensive?

 

[Carbonsteeljunkie]

I wonder if I could preorder one in buffalo horn? That way Mike could shape it and be happy that it wasn't a doppelknifer of the bravo and I could have an attractive functional knife without having to hear any crap. In theory... everyone would win?

 

[Brisket]

Excellent points by Mike Stewart in the post by Carbonsteeljunkie. You aren't going to get palm swells with antique stag bone, bighorn sheep horn, etc. and thus are poorly suited handle materials for the Bravo 1 whose palm swells are a signature feature. Save those materials for different models that the handle designs are better suited for them and get a Bravo 1 in a material that can be contoured like Micarta.

 

[Carbonsteeljunkie]

I guess those old hand made knives with horn and wood handles my grandpa and his dad used to carry through the woods were completely useless pieces of crap. Poor bastards never knew they were skinning with such an inferior products...

If you detected a hint of sarcasm there... it was definitely intended.

 

[Mountain Wildman]

I've had two Bravo 1 A2, Two in CPM 154 and my newest Bravo is the 1.5 in S35VN, I have several custom knives and this is my favorite:

Once you feel the amazingly comfortable handle of the B1 or 1.5, You know exactly what Mike Stewart is talking about, In my opinion, The Bravo 1.5 is a perfect woods knife, Long enough to baton decent size logs but not so long as to need a leg strap. The standard model without the swedge is better suited to batoning, The swedge looks cool but will tear up your baton, Which is not a real big deal since you can just cut another one. I went with the G10 figuring it is less likely than Micarta to absorb moisture.
You will not be disappointed with the Bravo 1 or 1.5, I recommend the 1.5

 

[Sulaco]

B1 has the best ergos of any knife I've held. The handle materials you want take away from that. I think Mike explained that pretty well in your quote.

 

[Carbonsteeljunkie]

I guess what just makes absolutely no sense to me is why every other knife maker can smooth and shape bone, antler, and horn but for some reason is an enigma here (If I can have smooth bone grips on my Smith and Wessons how can it be that hard to do for a knife)? The buffalo horn scales shown on some of the other knives in the bark river line up on their website are all shaped and molded so why wouldn't the same be done for a bravo series knife? Im sorry but I guess I was born a few hundred years too late, plastic on a knife is a concept I have a very serious aversion to; it just aint natural lol. I will admit though, that the knife Mountain Wildman posted is really nice! Its just not my bag, and if Im paying in the 250 to 300 dollar frame it had best be everything my bag desires and more! I can understand not using wood since it tends to absorb moisture and decay especially around the "rivet" area but bone and horn?

Heres a gunny that I found on bark river collectors gallery in buffalo horn, it looks pretty smooth and well shaped to me? Any owners care to chip in on this one? (genuinely curious here not being sarcastic)
http://brkca.com/gallery-new/album102/Gunny_Buffalo_Horn?full=1