Bark river microbevel

Watch bravo one chip removal by dbk on YouTube... this looks really easy. Is this what your telling me cause tbh I'm a little confused.. convex grinds do they to me since I don't have experience with them that's another reason I need to regrind this knife with the stones. I think I may be way overthinking it all cause so far sharpening freehand has came easy for me.. practiced some convex edges on flat grinds but that's different then reprofiling a bark river yea?
 
It's not that complicated, you may be overthinking it. Really its only difficult because of the cosmetics and the amount of effort involved in doing it by hand.
 
Convex is too hyped up in my opinion.I put small micro bevel on all my convex grind knives and have no problems,theyre razor sharp ,on some of them micro bevel is almost invisible and on some visible but I do not care.It performs same! Do not worry asnd sharpen it on waterstones,with little rocking motion.People overcomplicate it too much,and worry too much about aestetics!
 
Yea I agree.. wish I wasn't one of those ppl but I'm a worrier when it comes to money
 
If this is going to be a real user, you might get your feet wet by using your Mora, hard. It won't take a lot of full blade touch-ups before you'll have a lot more confidence with a convex or Scandi - they are extremely similar in maintenance. You might even use your belt grinder to reshape the Mora first, than maintain it as close as you can or improve it over time - grind it thinner on the stones as you go.

Find a stone finish you can live with in terms of cosmetics and use it on the entire blade face every touch up. Finish off with a strop or not depending on your preference.

If you use an inexpensive Scandi for a while you'll come to appreciate this strategy - the blade stays looking good, and the geometry stays constant or improves over time. Fudging maintenance on a Scandi or convex will result in slowly degraded performance. If I were you I'd be a bit nervous about going after your Gunny with not much other experience because its a nice knife and = to a lot of groceries. But with a little experience under your belt they are, in many ways, easier to maintain than many other grind types.

Here's an older video showing that same Bark River Necker with the factory blacking and geometry and how I shape and maintain them. Currently I do a heck of a lot more scrubbing and work a lot faster, but the overall strategy is the same.

 
I'm confident sharpening My scandis and any other knife but not so much with the gunny.. I see some videos of people reprofiling the entire knife when they sharpen it but I just want to remove the microbevel or just go with 30 degree inclusive edge which shouldn't I be able to do like any other knife just get my edge how I want it and transition the shoulders into the primary grind? Or do I have to remove metal there too just to make it transition right? After this entire forumn I may have finally found the real question I was looking for.. cause if that's all I'm doing I feel good enough to do that on stones.. or even use the wet sandpaper route so I don't get such big scratches
 
They come with mirco bevels just maintain the micro bevel.

Lots of dude overly complicate it with graph and charts and super specific ways of doing it.

It's not that complicated.

If the geometry with the mirco doesn't cut to your standards then but a more acute micro bevel on there, if you can see a shoulder from the micro then blend it into the primary by eye.
 
I prefer my 2 x 72" Belt sander than any stones! Haven't used stones in years, Well, this way the stones & Ceramic are on the belts!

Use fresh belts with no more than half the grit gone because they start to built up to much heat and keep the edge moving!

My 2 cents is use the damn knife with the edge it has and when it needs to be sharpened, put what you want on it!
No point in removing steel for no real reason.
 
I used a 2k grit to remove a little bit of material.. after looking at it more I may have had a small burr but it's cutting pretty good now I didn't go crazy sharpening the whole knife but I did a little rocking
 
Gradyw said:
Basic member?
Click to expand...

Link to an offsite photo sharing service?

Anyway, sounds good! Once you get your feet wet on these they just get easier. Its really only the cosmetics that can be challenging.

Oh yeah, and once you get it dialed in you'll start wanting to really thin stuff out...
 
The knife was way easier to sharpen then I thought it would be I thought 3v was going to be tougher
 
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