Bark River STS-3 Black-Midnite Tigerstripe

G

gulliamo

Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
193
Here is a quick photo review of my brand new Bark River STS-3 Black-Midnite Tigerstripe and the custom sheath by Michael Volclae. I'll post a more thorough review after I use them a bit.

Thanks much to the good folks here helped me decide on this knife:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=780069

Thanks much to Michael Volclae of Volclae Designs for the awesome sheath which is completely modular and fully reversible!
http://volclaedesign.blogspot.com/

The knife was purchase from DLT Trading. They were good enough to ship directly to Michael: http://www.dlttrading.com/sts-3-b-midtig.html


Bark River STS-3 kit:
STS3kit2.jpg


Bark River STS-3 in Volclae sheath:
STS3kit.jpg


Bark River STS-3 size:
STS3size.jpg


Bark River STS-3 size2:
STS3size2.jpg


Bark River STS-3 handles:
STS3Handles.jpg


Bark River STS-3 balance point:
STS3Balance.jpg


Bark River STS-3 right side 154 steel:
STS154.jpg


Michael Volclae custom sheath for Bth fark River STS-3:
Sheath.jpg


Michael Volclae custom sheath for Bark River STS-3 - back:
Sheath2.jpg


Bark River STS-3 horizontal carry:
STS3carry.jpg
 
Yes. I had Michael put a place on the sheath for both the Firesteel AND my 1/8 inch Allen wrench so I can remove the handles or modify the sheath in the field.
 
Thanks much! Following is my original list of sheath requirements for Michael. Did he deliver? My initial impression is a resounding yes!


-Dual loop, fully reversible, horizontal and vertical carry
-Compact shape (keep the height low with a kydex liner)
-Reversible retention strap (over and down - not across.)
-Exposed handle - no belt loop up to the top.
-Heavy duty leather (3.5mm)
-Water resistant treatment (including glue and thread)
-Water drain/cleaning hole
-Removable wide pouch
-Removable firesteel loop
-Very dark brown.
-Black screws
-A way to stash the Allen wrench used to remove the handle scales
-Moderate - NOT super tight - kydex insert (that's why I have a retention strap!)

Is that demanding enough for one sheath?
 
link2derek said:
Very cool! I think I need one. . . .

How's the firesteel perform?
Click to expand...
The firesteel works fine but I'm a little disappointed by the bulk the handle adds to knife's carry-ability. I'm going to get one of these and loop a bit of shock cord through the hole. This will act like a handle when needed and will slip around the bottom to aid in retention when not in use. It will also be much more compact and lighter!

http://firesteel.com/products/FireSteel-Armageddon-Junior-with-Lanyard-Hole.html

Also worth noting: The black coating on the back of the knife makes it a bit more difficult to use. I have to use the thinner edge of the back of the blade nearer the point (1/2 inch from point on back). I imagine this will wear off with use anyway.
 
Another reason I asked for a retention strap on a sheath with a kydex liner is it allows me to carry the knife in ultra-light, skeletonized mode.
 
Some more early feedback:

The handle (is it Micarta or G10?) has two corners near the lanyard hole. One corner is nice and rounded in both dimensions and the other comes to an uncomfortable point in both dimensions (the picture doesn't do it justice).

How do you recommend I round this down? Light sandpaper?
STS3Handles2.jpg
 
Nathan Ihrke said:
That is the coolest sheath I think I have ever seen and an awesome knife to go in it also
Click to expand...
I often switch carry positions from front/side left to back right depending on load-out, terrain and task therefore it is imperative that I can completely reverse everything in the field. This may sound obvious and that every sheath would naturally do this but most do not. Volclae delivered!

For example if I'm climbing and know I'll have my belly against rock (or the ground) I like it on my back but for normal carry I like it on the left front/size (a little further back than the picture above). But I often like to throw it in a front or cargo pocket. Therefore it is important that I can remove all of add-ons like the pouch and make it slim and compact as possible.
 
Ok. Please help. This handle is killing me (see latest photo above)! What do you recommend? Can I take off the scales and simply hand sand them down? Do I need a belt sander or something more professional? Should I send it back (last resort!)? Is there someone local to NYC that knows how to do this?

Help!
 
Hi Gulliamo,

That's a sweet setup you got there. Congrats!

Regarding the scales, you can reshape them to your heart's content. Get a sheet of quality 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, get a container of water large enough for you to dip your sandpaper into and sand away anything that is causing you discomfort. One of those "Extra Fine" sanding sponges from 3M would probably work even better.

Keep your work wet by occasionally dipping it or the paper in the water. Keeping the scales wet will prevent the dust associated with G10 from becoming airborne/inhaled. You don't want that to happen. It's basically like breathing fiberglass. Neither fun nor healthy.

I'd clamp each scale to a piece of scrap wood or metal so you neither scratch up your Barkie's finish nor round off the edges of the flat face of the scales that mates up with the tang of your knife.

It really shouldn't take a lot of material removal. Just break the point that's causing you trouble and you should be good to go. Take it slow and don't get impatient. You can always sand more off, but you'll be hard pressed to put that dust back on the scale.

Hope this helps,

Taylor
 
Last edited:
LifeBlade.net said:
Hope this helps,

Taylor
Click to expand...
Very much so! Thanks for the words of caution! I'm glad I asked. I would have just started sanding away with dry 80 grit.

I took a couple of photos to review how the STS-3 held up against my Global kitchen knives if anyone is interested...

(Yes. I'm anxious to try out my new blade and was city bound this weekend.)
 
Hey Gulliamo,

You're most welcome. I just thought of something else this morning. Rather than bolting or clamping the scales to something to sand them as I had suggested, it'd be easier to just clamp them to each other.

You accomplish the same thing and will have an easier time of keeping everything nice and even.

As for the photos and review, count me in. I always appreciate any review someone is willing to put the time and effort into for us.

Taylor
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top