Barlow

[bluebug66]

I need to replace the blades in a Barlow 2 blade knife. The bolsters do not have the little tab that holds the covers on. How to I remove the covers without damaging the knife? My older Barlows have a little tab at the top of the bolster that can be pried up and remove the scales and bolsters. Thanks.

 

[Arathol]

I need to replace the blades in a Barlow 2 blade knife. The bolsters do not have the little tab that holds the covers on. How to I remove the covers without damaging the knife? My older Barlows have a little tab at the top of the bolster that can be pried up and remove the scales and bolsters. Thanks.

Pictures would help a lot here....

 

[afishhunter]

The barlows with tabs holding the "covers" (and bolster) on are hollow bolster shell construction.
Without the tabs, the knife has pinned construction, unless a Schrade/Old Timer/Uncle Henery/I*XL with a Swindon Key.

If a Swindon key knife ... best to let an expert/pro do the job. It HAS to be converted to pinned construction when re-assembled.

You'll have to cut the pins to take the knife apart, then drill out the cover pins from the back side, then remove the covers.
You'll need pin stock the same size as the pivot, rocker, and if you use, cover pins.

You "might" be better off paying a modder to replace the covers.
There are several here on the forums, including glennbad , and I think Bill DeShivs among others.
You can find them in the modders and knife maker's sub-forums.
I don't know who's books are open, or their current turn-around times, or rates.

Alternatively, if you don't want cover pins, you can break off the old covers, open the blades, cut and push the cover pins out into the blade well, shake them out, close the blades, then fit and glue the new covers on.
NOTE: It sounds easier than it is.
The fitting can be (it usually is ) a Major Regal Royal pain in the a§.

NOTE: The lowest and (generally largest) pin sticking through the covers is the backspring rocker pin. It does not help hold the covers on.
DON'T DAMAGE IT!
You will need to drill the new covers for the rocker pin.

If your going to do the job yourself, I strongly advize getting a practice knife or three and work on them before taking on a knife that has meaning to you.

Inexpensive pinned knives include the offshore Imperial Congress and stockman (the offshore Imperial Barlow is a hollow bolster) and any Rough Rider.

No manufacturer I know of is currently using Swindon key construction.
Key construction was strictly a pre-2004 Schrade brands thing - and on limited models and brands, at that.

 

[JM2]

The barlows with tabs holding the "covers" (and bolster) on are hollow bolster shell construction.
Without the tabs, the knife has pinned construction, unless a Schrade/Old Timer/Uncle Henery/I*XL with a Swindon Key.

If a Swindon key knife ... best to let an expert/pro do the job. It HAS to be converted to pinned construction when re-assembled.

You'll have to cut the pins to take the knife apart, then drill out the cover pins from the back side, then remove the covers.
You'll need pin stock the same size as the pivot, rocker, and if you use, cover pins.

You "might" be better off paying a modder to replace the covers.
There are several here on the forums, including glennbad , and I think Bill DeShivs among others.
You can find them in the modders and knife maker's sub-forums.
I don't know who's books are open, or their current turn-around times, or rates.

Alternatively, if you don't want cover pins, you can break off the old covers, open the blades, cut and push the cover pins out into the blade well, shake them out, close the blades, then fit and glue the new covers on.
NOTE: It sounds easier than it is.
The fitting can be (it usually is ) a Major Regal Royal pain in the a§.

NOTE: The lowest and (generally largest) pin sticking through the covers is the backspring rocker pin. It does not help hold the covers on.
DON'T DAMAGE IT!
You will need to drill the new covers for the rocker pin.

If your going to do the job yourself, I strongly advize getting a practice knife or three and work on them before taking on a knife that has meaning to you.

Inexpensive pinned knives include the offshore Imperial Congress and stockman (the offshore Imperial Barlow is a hollow bolster) and any Rough Rider.

No manufacturer I know of is currently using Swindon key construction.
Key construction was strictly a pre-2004 Schrade brands thing - and on limited models and brands, at that.

Good info right here, except for one thing, Swinden key constructed knives can be disassembled and reassembled without converting to pinned construction, though you must remove the rocker pin from the outside and not by cutting it using a thin piece of metal inserted between the liner and backspring which would damage the Swinden key's fitment. Of course, removing the rocker pin in this manner would be a pain if you were trying to save the scales.

 

[afishhunter]

Swinden key constructed knives can be disassembled and reassembled without converting to pinned construction, though you must remove the rocker pin from the outside and not by cutting it

I know the original Schrade made Buck 300 series knves were keyed.
The ones repaired under warranty for broken keys were converted to pins (without changing the bolsters) during the repair.
Since the pins were not fully supported by the key bolsters Buck advised "no "heavy" use" to those customers.
(what is "heavy use" anyway?

(WHY Buck/Schrade didn't send out a new replacement knife I don't know. I don't know for sure, but I "think" Schrade sent a new 8OT/34OT when one got sent in under warrany for a broken key.

Apparently it was a big enough problem for Buck that they didin't renew (or they cancelled) the Schrade contract and contracted with Camillus for pinned knives after just 2 or 3 years.

 

[JM2]

I forgot that Buck contracted with Schrade, thanks for the information.

I have a 34OT that is getting pretty loose because I've whittled with it a lot. I'm considering converting it to pinned construction.