Batac HELP PLEASE!

P

pennard

Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Messages
56
A simple question, originating from a simple problem. It has troubled man since the beginning of the bronze age. Many have tried, many failed. Countless men have asked this question before me, countless answers have been given, few possess this valuable skill, many times has it been talked about. Yet there are few who know what they’re talking about and fewer still who are capable of and willing to teach others their hard earned knowledge and divulge their closely guarded secretes. I talk of the art of sharpening a convex blade. (I hear you’re groans ‘he finally got to the point and it’s the same as hundreds of other threads’) well bear with me for that is where you come in.
I have read countless web pages, books, talked to pros, followed the link to link to link merry go round for too long. This is my last stand, I come here in an attempt to end the madness, to a pool of knowledge not only on knives in general but perhaps more importantly those who know not only about the hallowed INFI steel but about the specific blade I wish to sharpen. If there is anywhere that I can find a solution is here.
My aim is to acquire the knowledge and develop the skills necessary to sharpen my badger attack tack back to the hair popping sharp it had when it came out of the box. I want a method that removes as little steel is possible, so as it can be done frequently. If the method requires new tools resources or techniques that can only be done from the comfort of home, then it must be accompanied with a method that can be easily practised in the field. I hope that together we can develop the ultimate method to sharpen a knife, or specifically the perfect method to restore and maintain a sharp edge. Hopefully, this method will also be possible, no matter how thick or thin the user requires or prefers their edge.
The best place to start is the beginning, how to restore the hair popping edge on the knife, whilst removing the least amount steel.
 
ah come on guys, thirteen views and no replys have a heart:rolleyes:
But seriously what whre the things that got you through the stage im at iv read, tried and dome everything i can!
 
Return it to maker and have them touch it up or pull out the stones and put up the key board for a while decide what bevel you have and want and use a lite touch.
 
The guy in that thread used an Edge Pro which looks the same as the Lansky system.

I haven't sharpened mine yet, but when I do I expect that it will be on the Sharpmaker, same as the rest.

Have you tried stropping?
 
I use an old mouse pad and sandpaper. Laying the pad flat on a table, or coutertop, and then a single layer of sandpaper. If it needs alot of work, I'll start off with 360 grit, if not, 600 grit. After I feel it is as close as I can get it by stropping, I take it to a diamond plate (Norton 4000 grit) for the "micro" edge. That' it, works for me. I wish you well.
 
I see that you have posted this query in the Maintenance forum, as well. Lot's of good knowledge over there, just read through a lot of old threads. As some folks have said, it will help if you could pinpoint exactly what point in the process you are having trouble with.
 
I have begun to use this method:http://www.barkriverknives.com/docs/convex.pdf

I use Flitz polish on the last sheet (2000 grit) of sandpaper after I use it in the conventional manner instead of mucking up my strop.

I am a recent Busse convert, and even more recent Convex Blade convert. I have sharpened countless blades in my career as a chef, and I am amazed that i learned a new method (convex) of sharpening which yields spectacularly superior results in a shorter amount of time.

Easily done in the field, and great on thicker blades like the BATAC.
 
The original edge is a conventional V grind, but I also am also a convert to the convex grind. I start by coloring the edge with a sharpie and use 325 grit paper backed by leather and strop on the sandpaper until the sharpie mark is gone. Then move to the next grit paper. Keep stropping until all of the scratch marks from the previous grit are removed and then go to the next grit. I do this at 325, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit which gives a nearly mirror finished edge that is stupid sharp. Forget the factory edge, trust me, you'll want to. You can find the paper at walmart and any backing that will "give" a small amout will do, mouse pads are very popular. The only other thing that you need is a flat surface. You can make up a field sharpener that is lighter than most stones with a small piece of 2x4, a piece of mouse pad, some glue, and various grits of sandpaper. It is also more versital.
 
I don't think Badgers are convex ground...;), but for me the best way to sharpen a convex edge (like one on my Hell Razor) is the one given by mymindisamob :thumbup:
 
I posted this a while back. I use the same method still, but now I rubber band the sandpaper to the leather strop as suggested by another forumite (I forget who). Keeps the fingers out of harms way. I have tried the mousepad method, but I feel that most are too soft and collapse under the pressure of the knife. The leather has just the right amount of give. It's essentially a modification of the barkriver system mentioned by tomthebaker above.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=482765&highlight=finally

I think you could easily pack up some fine grit sandpaper and a small piece of leather for a field kit. Put the leather on a log, rock, or even you thigh and go to town.

I am considering an Edge-Pro for my smaller blades (BATAC and shorter). From what I've read the V-edge would be preferable on slicers, while the convex is better on choppers.

And from what I've seen the Edge-Pro is nothing like the Lansky or Gatco sharpeners. The EP is much more sophisticated, but just as easy to use according to folks that have one. I have a Gatco and to be honest it sucks.

Good luck with the honing.
 
Even on my "v" edges I fint that a quick stropping on a leather belt works great. Some here load their strops with compounds of various grit to help. I imagine that if you are merely cutting/slicing and some batoning with the BATAC a strop will do the trick. I often just strop my blades in the field by putting a fine grit of sand paper on my thigh and stropping it on that. Works like a charm.

The key is to take it slow and do not use too much pressure. Let us know how this works.
 
While the edge pro may look something like the Lansky, it is my understanding that it is much, much better, top of the line in fact. Look for reviews in the maintenance and tinkering forum.
 
Walking Man said:
While the edge pro may look something like the Lansky, it is my understanding that it is much, much better, top of the line in fact. Look for reviews in the maintenance and tinkering forum.
Click to expand...

I have not used the Lansky but I have held it in person and it is not on the same level as the EP IMHO! But to be fair has someone used both? Plus, if a knuckle head like me can get awesome results with it then it has to be good. ;)
 
Tyrkon Lawson said:
I have not used the Lansky but I have held it in person and it is not on the same level as the EP IMHO! But to be fair has someone used both? Plus, if a knuckle head like me can get awesome results with it then it has to be good. ;)
Click to expand...
I concur, Tyrkon is a knuckle head. :p
 
One thing about the Edge Pro, don't you use the stones wet, so it makes a drippy mess?

I just got a Harbor Freight 1 x 30" belt sander, so I'm making a different kind of mess!
 
The Lansky is a great sharpening device but nowhere near the quality of the Edgepro. The Lansky requires the knife to be clamped and angle options are preset by the holes on the clamp that the sharpening rods go through. The Edgepro does not require clamps and the blade is held at a consistent fixed angle via blade holder/blade table. The Edgepro is not limited to preset angles and is infinitely adjustable which is very helpful when trying to match a existing angle.

The Edgepro is in my opinion one of the best sharpening device that money can buy.

My EP is nearly 8 or 9yrs old now and still just like the day I first bought it.
 
Tyrkon Lawson said:
Hey! Well when I finally become a HOG perhaps I will be given the name "HOG Knuckles" :p
Click to expand...

KnuckleHog roll off the tongue better:p.

Anyway I have used the Gatco sharpening system which is very similar to Lansky. The Gatco has a flimsy clamp, difficult to maintain angles that are created by a series of holes in a piece of plastic and it has a crappy plastic hand grip that you would need to bolt to an anvil to get it to stay still. I hate this thing. Never got one good result with it. Like I said I have heard incredible things about the EP. I've done a lot of research on it. Just haven't had the cash to pull the trigger.

Also the strop that book'em linked is the exact one I use for convex edges. Get some green stropping compound from the same company and you're good to go. Once you get an assortment of fine grit wet/dry paper.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top