Battle Saw Teeth

S

scottyj

Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
1,457
Serious question. In regards to the teeth on the Battle Saw....they face forward. How do you use the saw? I have an old Gerber BMF, and the teeth face rearward. Hold the grip and pull saw teeth rearward on wood, and it cuts. On the Battle Saw would you sink the blade into a stump and drag what you want to cut across the teeth? I'm confused. Please help. Thanks.
 
scottyj said:
Serious question. In regards to the teeth on the Battle Saw....they face forward. How do you use the saw? I have an old Gerber BMF, and the teeth face rearward. Hold the grip and pull saw teeth rearward on wood, and it cuts. On the Battle Saw would you sink the blade into a stump and drag what you want to cut across the teeth? I'm confused. Please help. Thanks.
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Use the sawing motion while applying some pressure. That usually works...
 
elof_alv said:
Use the sawing motion while applying some pressure. That usually works...
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I think Elof is trying to be clever --- if you search for the original Battle Saw post by Jerry, he teaches how to properly use it. Hope that helps a little.
 
scottyj said:
Really? You get a lot more power pulling than pushing forward. Pushing forward is a weak way to use this type of saw.
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I wouldn't agree, when you push you can lean in with your shoulder and upper body into the cut (guess takes time to train yourself to do that), when pulling most people use only the arm (and only 30-40% of the saw length).
 
elof_alv said:
I wouldn't agree, when you push you can lean in with your shoulder and upper body into the cut (guess takes time to train yourself to do that), when pulling most people use only the arm (and only 30-40% of the saw length).
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I agree with the above underlined part. You can also lean rearward while pulling. I have used mine this way and it works well. I would love to see a comparison between the two styles.
 
Looks unique, works fine and it is much safer to push an 11" blade away from you than pull it toward your body. Often in this life, thoughtful distinction is better than nice imitation. ;)
 
AZTimT said:
Looks unique, works fine and it is much safer to push an 11" blade away from you than pull it toward your body. Often in this life, thoughtful distinction is better than nice imitation. ;)
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Also agree with this. I'm really curious now. I would love to try one of these. Shit....I might just have to pick one up.
 
scottyj said:
Really? You get a lot more power pulling than pushing forward. Pushing forward is a weak way to use this type of saw.
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Wow, at just under 200 posts I wouldn't tell the creator of a bad ass knife that he did it wrong on his forum..... I do all kinds of stupid stuff but never that
 
scottyj said:
Serious question. In regards to the teeth on the Battle Saw....they face forward. How do you use the saw? I have an old Gerber BMF, and the teeth face rearward. Hold the grip and pull saw teeth rearward on wood, and it cuts. On the Battle Saw would you sink the blade into a stump and drag what you want to cut across the teeth? I'm confused. Please help. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Here is a video

Although Jerry said it is better to come from under the material.

p.s. Always use a d-guard of some sort !!!!!!!!!

[video=youtube;V7OKFc-mR-c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7OKFc-mR-c[/video]
 
Ok, I'm gonna come across like a smart@$$ here, but this is a half serious question: has no one on this thread ever used the old standard-style crosscut hand saw? Those have been using teeth that cut on the push for probably at least a couple hundred years now. Busse didn't go and reverse the standard way of sawing. He went back to the standard. For saw backs, his Battle Saw is the first one that has ever made sense. Or am I missing something here??
 
Good video Dave and the sawing with the sheath on method definately looked a lot safer.
 
The only thing I would ever use that for is notching sticks... in which case, *I* would solidly chop/sink the knife edge into a log so it holds, then brace the handle between my knees to hold the knife steady then drag the stick I was notching along the spine, pulling it toward my knees.

Anything larger than notches could just be chopped.

That's just me, though.
 
Skrapmetal said:
The only thing I would ever use that for is notching sticks... in which case, *I* would solidly chop/sink the knife edge into a log so it holds, then brace the handle between my knees to hold the knife steady then drag the stick I was notching along the spine, pulling it toward my knees.

Anything larger than notches could just be chopped.

That's just me, though.
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That's my understanding of the design of the sawback- for notching wood for traps, etc. That thing will make short work of most anything you want to completely sever with the blade, sawing through a log would just be silly when you can chop it.
 
rockspyder said:
Ok, I'm gonna come across like a smart@$$ here, but this is a half serious question: has no one on this thread ever used the old standard-style crosscut hand saw? Those have been using teeth that cut on the push for probably at least a couple hundred years now. Busse didn't go and reverse the standard way of sawing. He went back to the standard. For saw backs, his Battle Saw is the first one that has ever made sense. Or am I missing something here??
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My thoughts as well.
 
But it looks really friggin cool, does that count for anything ? :)
 
Skrapmetal said:
The only thing I would ever use that for is notching sticks... in which case, *I* would solidly chop/sink the knife edge into a log so it holds, then brace the handle between my knees to hold the knife steady then drag the stick I was notching along the spine, pulling it toward my knees.

Anything larger than notches could just be chopped.

That's just me, though.
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Yup, you will wear yourself out trying to saw completely through. But it wasn't designed for that either. I assume if the teeth were offset like an actual saw, you could probably go through easier/faster. It is one of the coolest looking Busse though,,,
 
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