Battlesaw convexed

G

Gaston444

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Oct 1, 2014
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Just wanted to share pics of my Battlesaw (my first Busse) convexed by Josh. I had bought it already stripped with a nice Kydex sheath. My only spec was 15 degrees per side on the apex. Josh offered to convex it and I said fine, as long the apex was 15. This does mean it is now fairly thin, but I never abuse my knives beyond hacking wood...

Josh took the initiative of darkening the rough stripping: It looks quite amazing I think...:


i-LJmvknJ-X2.jpg


I love the corrugation concept: It actually makes for a much thinner blade overall...

i-mWLGsqk-X2.jpg



My only quibble with the thing (aside the original blunt 0.060" edge that was over 30 dps) was that each tooth on the sawback looked pretty "rounded" on the top edges: Josh had that squared up. Can't wait to see how all of this looks in person...

One thing I really loved about it is that, although the specs say it is 0.22" stock, it is in fact a full 0.25" thick, and the 11" spec blade length is in fact 11 and 1/8": I love that, as Randalls can be quite under spec ( 0.03" stock and 1/10" of blade length under being common), and so you feel like you got the apprentice overgrinding the piece...

It still surprised me by not feeling overly heavy, yet it has a very blade-oriented feel despite the full tang handle. The handle is very reasonable in size and did not give me "pinky bite": An angled fusion handle would not really go well with the sawback anyway...

Now if I could only put something in it... :)

Gaston
 
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Looks so good and is basically indestructible!
Josh outdid himself this time...
 
Thanks guys!

This is how Josh describes what he did (btw, I just noticed you can see on the front of each tooth how he "squared" up their top):

"Just finished these up (finally!)

On your Battlesaw I reprofiled the 'edge' portion into a low angle convex grind, as low as I could go without getting into the CBT too much. I did bump it in a few places, so I rubbed in some ferric chloride (acid) to darken it a tad, then used flitz to blend it all together - but wanted to let you know because you can see where if you look closely. But it's got a rustic look anyway and I knew you wanted low angles =) Anyway, I took it to 600 grit and stropped it so it's semi-polished. Got the teeth reprofiled/flattened too. "

This was the other one he did for me at the same time, a 10 5/16" blade Colin Cox that had some atypical "imprecision" in the grinding here and there (edge thickness inconsistent, a bit of hollow grind profile "lean" to one side around the belly area). I also re-set the handle straighter on it, which is why there is roughness on the guard joint. With Josh's work it looks like something from the Hattori factory now... Except for the uneven teeth which he improved after this photo: They each have an edge on top, so it is more like a really tough "chopping" saw for chewing knots than any kind of actual saw (at least from what I can figure!)...

i-HNtv3WQ-X2.jpg


Gaston
 
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That is insanely awesome, one of the better looking knives I have seen posted up in recent memory. Beautiful.

C
 
Not sure that I have ever seen sawteeth angled the opposite way. So does the saw cut with a push, not a pull? I would think that a pull cut would be easier. Thoughts?
 
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