Battoning and the seal pup

[RescueRiley]

Well as promised the results of test 2 Took a 2&1/2 piece of oak tha had fallen from a tree near my house it was about as thick around as a paper towel roll. (although it was oak, it was not live oak and the middle was a little on the puply side however it was still a solid piece pf wood, typical fire fodder) I spit it in to 4 length wise segments and than battoned the point of the blade althe way through one of the fatter pieces that appears to be a little more than a quater of an inch thick. The blade is still shaving sharp as my rapidly balding arm will testify and the point is just like new....In reality I would need more wood for this than even a modest fire but I know for a fact now that the knife will hold up.....The down side is the tapere false edge on the spine which seems to dig into the baton and seems to be a slightly cunter produvtinve use of energy....also there is the slightest bit of wear in the finish, I can only imagine this will get worse as I continue to use the knife. but it really bugs me...I know it shouldn't but I'm wierd like that. any way to counter this or to repair it after it gets bad or should i just grin and bear it and expect that it something that will happen to a survival knife?

 

[Allan Molstad]

should i just grin and bear it and expect that it something that will happen to a survival knife?

Thats always the question with a knife you spend some cash on.
Save it, or use it?

If you save it, then it's not a real knife anymore. It's art, or it's an investment.

If it's used the the scratches are going to happen. It cant be helped.

Try to look on the bright side, pretend each scratch is a little merit badge.

 

[Allan Molstad]

...The down side is the tapere false edge on the spine which seems to dig into the baton and seems to be a slightly cunter produvtinve use of energy....

This is a very good real-life result to know now.
It points to the design in that area of the blade to be not at all helpfull to you at all.

It seems that if you were making a knife like this you would grind the spine more flat.

 

[Tactical]

So you are using the Seal Pup Elite with the spine rasp? Are you using the satin finish one? No coating to wear off...

 

[RescueRiley]

not the elite just the pup I felt like the rasp might get hung up on things while cutting

 

[Tactical]

Yeah, I liked the Elite quite a lot when I saw the satin finish one. But that rasp would have to chew up any baton pretty fast. Maybe a Nothwest Ranger or Field Pup...

 

[RescueRiley]

I'm concerned how the seal pup will hold up w/ aus 6 steel and that pointy bowie style tip.....WE'll see

 

[Andros]

The down side is the tapere false edge on the spine which seems to dig into the baton and seems to be a slightly cunter produvtinve use of energy....also there is the slightest bit of wear in the finish, I can only imagine this will get worse as I continue to use the knife. but it really bugs me...I know it shouldn't but I'm wierd like that. any way to counter this or to repair it after it gets bad or should i just grin and bear it and expect that it something that will happen to a survival knife?

In a true survival situation one should try to make every move count as much as possible. You will need to conserve energy. In the first paragraph of this post http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4327694&postcount=32, I particularly mentioned this feature of the SOG Seal Pup as a drawback regarding batoning with this knife. This may look like a cool feature from a marketing standpoint but, in reality it's not going to work for the benefit of the user. For batoning, one would be much better off with a flat blade spine.

 

[SIRGALANT]

stuff the finish , my seal 2000 has had a good beating , plenty of scuffs in the coating , even got coating missing in the tip from my mate using it as a drill